Jbolt001

I used the .020 washers as recommended by Piers.

Bushy

The POD's are all matched sets so as to have a good control on what goes out.<br>The thin washers are the ones to use, and I have some haze at idle. If I hit the shifter into &quot;N&quot; it clears up. I think that they are pretty rich nozzles and just supply large amounts of fuel that can't be burnt fully at idle.<br>Since installing my HX35 that has cleaned up even more...... well.... that is till I fiddled with the pump and chased a few more HP's...;D;D<br>I am running the pump fairly aggressively.... starwheel turned so far up it's nearly ready to pop off the shaft, smoke screw backed right out, cone has a BushWakr tuning job and the gov spring. <br>At this level it is FAR more aggressive than before my turbo change, and I still have equal or slightly less smoke than before. Of course the high end is a tad toasty.... <br>but I'm going to work on that in the next while too....<br><br>Bob.

hdm48

If you go with the PODs, get them from Piers. He matches them and if you have a problem, he replaces them with no hesitation. <br> But I desided to step up to the DD3+'s and gained 30hp over the PODs with no idle smoke and no haze leaving a stop lite. Plus, my EGTs droped 150 degrees at WFO. Now all you gotta do is talk DD into making some for you. Lenny at Dynomite Diesel in Monroe wa. can help you there.<br> I have not posted my dyno numbers 'cause I didn't have any witnesses. But 300 sounds about right and I still have the lock collar on with about 6-7 threads still showing.

Bob Beauchaine

Good luck on the DD3+'s - according to Lenny DD made their last set for a 1st Gen. and right now they are in my truck. I suppose that with enough $$$ they would build them.<br>Bob.

furious70

how much did the 'last set' cost?

furious70

also, is the POD power level such that my stockish clutch will start to complain? Or only if I put the coals to it with 15,000lbs behind me? If that power level will start breaking things in the truck I need to save more money lol

Monty

Furious, I too was worried about the stock clutch taking the stress of a lead foot with the POD's. So far this clutch I have had in it since 94 with over 200k is holding just fine stock replacement. No slipping. I do tow quite frequently and have had no problems. This is not to say you wont, however, I have had very good luck so far with the stock clutch holding the power. Remember, the 1st gens Sachs clutch is alot stouter than the 2nd gens.

furious70

hmmmm, this is getting pretty tempting lol. Is it just an afternoon job to put them in? any special wrenches or anything needed?

RedWhiteDiesel

Alright, so can anyone chime me in on what &quot;hazing&quot; is? And also, if I install the POD's and crank up on the pump a bit more will the engine have a &quot;lope&quot; to it? I heard a truck at muncie that sounded awesome and a couple guys told me it was the injectors that made it do that. Just curious...
Brian

Bushy

Brian,<br><br>&quot;Hazing&quot; is the (variable) amount of smoke you'll see from the tailpipe when at idle. The Lucas nozzles are actually richer than the often mentioned 370's used in the 2nd Gen trucks.<br>What happens is the volume of fuel supplied at idle is rich enough that you'll have a haze (grey to dark grey) at idle.<br>In my case for example, if I remain in &quot;D&quot; while stopped for a couple minutes, the cylinder temps drop and the haze starts... once I'm moving again and the temps come up a bit, it pretty much goes away...<br>An idle of 700 RPM hazes on me, and an idle of 800-850 is all but clean.<br>The injectors will supply alot of fuel and can result in higher EGT's no question.. so if you tow/carry heavy or at altitude, then you'll want to tweak your pump to allow for the max EGT of 1250*F while under load.<br>As for &quot;lope&quot; that is often a result of an aggressive cam and lots of timing. <br><br>Bob.<br><br>Does that help at all ???

Bob Beauchaine

I ran PW's in my truck for about 90,000 miles and was very happy with them. How much power - well I was able to coax 258 RWHP out of them and still average 20+ miles per gallon on them. When I installed the DD3+'s in to replace them I felt that I had pretty much maxed them with my current pump settings. Keep in mind that they are Bosch 185's - meaning 185 HP at the flywheel. If you have an auto deduct about 20% (148RWHP) and a about 15% (157RWHP) for a manual tranny. Since I ran 258RWHP with them that's over a 100 hp increase. My truck did smoke - brown haze - but felt very good. <br><br>I have never run POD's so I can't help you there. As for DD3+'s look at my sig. for what they are starting at.<br><br>Bob

RedWhiteDiesel

Yes that did help Bob, thanks. Now for another question, with my pump turned up as it is, in the cold weather I get around here in the Chicagoland area, the truck would run rough, spitting out grey smoke when it gets like, say, below 30 degrees. If I plug it in, it doesnt happen right away, but after about 15 or 20 seconds it would still start to almost &quot;chug&quot; and puff out quite a bit of grey smoke. Is this because of the stock injectors on my tweaked pump, or do I have the pump tweaked wrong. The only 2 screws I have messed with are the easy ones to get to (im not sure what their exact names are) The one on top of the pump and the one on the back side. I am planning on adjusting the other ones after I put in the new injectors and clutch. Any suggestions as far as a clutch goes? I will also be adding a 16cm housing, so any other tips or advise that you might have for setting and running the fuel system would be greatly aprreciated. <br>Thanks a ton,<br>Brian

Bushy

In very cold weather there are a couple things that should be considered...<br>You will likely find the fuel heater will come in and out as needed to keep the fuel from gelling...<br>You will also have the manifold heater(s) kick in to keep intake are at a manageable temp.....<br>Assuming that those are working correctly, you may want to have your pump timing bumped up to about 15-16* advance.<br>This will help across the board in terms of smoke issues, and particularly at lower temps.<br>Your truck has a KSB solenoid on it and that is activated when temps get cool. It will activate until a certain temp is reached in the manifold and then shut off... it is possible that it is coming on/off as needed in those temps.<br>Also, put in some decent additive to help with pour point/gel point/cetane ratings.<br>Since you are running more than &quot;stock&quot; fueling the smoke will be worse due to incomplete combustion.<br><br>Bob.

Bob Beauchaine

RedWhiteDiesel<br>South Bend Clutch gets my vote and their not far from you in Chicago. I've had Peters Con-O in my '93 and it just gets better and better to drive. It is rated at 400 HP so you should be safe with it for a while ;D ;D ;D. BTW it does not chatter like the OEM clutch even at an idle of 800 rpm's.<br>Bob

Bushy

BTW, here's one mistake I was making in my pump settings....<br>I was tinkering with the starwheel up/down/up down etc....<br>I took some good advice on this and it helped...<br>First, the POD's supply more than enough fuel at idle/low end that they do not need any 'extra/supplemental' fueling.<br>So, crank the starwheel right up to the top...<br>It should be about 1 turn below the top of it's threaded stud.<br>Any higher and it will prevent full downward movement of the diaphram/cone.<br>What this does is preload the AFC spring to it's max... this in turn will hold off ANY extra fueling until you have some/more boost built up and can burn the extra fuel more completely.<br>So in my case for example, the haze issue is less now because of this, and the throttle response is pretty decent at the low end (boost) with some nasty butt juice coming on stream when I've got some boost built... say 8-10psi. This allows better burning of the fuel, less smoke, decent mileage around town since you don't really hit the &quot;heavy fueling&quot; range with less than 10psi or so.<br><br>Bob