Ignition switch BURNED me!
Ignition switch BURNED me!
Well the key got so hot that it burned me when I removed it. Before I could get the my hand back to the switch to turn it off, the engine stopped. I noticed no smell of burning nothing. It started smoking after I removed it. Now the truck won't start using the key. I jumpered the fuel control solenoid and starter to get it home. But I had no overdrive and no power to any accessories. The parts place list and electrical part and tumbler and key part but I don't see anyway to seperate the two parts other than drilling the rivits out.
Also is there a main fusable link to replace under the hood or should replacing the switch fix the power issues
Also is there a main fusable link to replace under the hood or should replacing the switch fix the power issues
It sounds to me like the problem is in the ignition switch.
I don't know which style switch you have. Is it the old style that uses the sorta diamond shaped small headed key, or the newer one with the big headed triangle shaped key? I can help you with the new one.
I don't know which style switch you have. Is it the old style that uses the sorta diamond shaped small headed key, or the newer one with the big headed triangle shaped key? I can help you with the new one.
To get the cylinder out of the switch:
Insert key and move switch to "lock" position.
Use a small screwdriver to depress the retaining pin. You do this by sticking the screwdriver in the little oval hole in the switch body.
Rotate the key clockwise to "off" position. The cylinder should pop out about 1/8".
Turn the key back to "lock" position and remove the key.
Pull the cylinder out.
To put it back together, put the switch in the "lock" position.
Insert cylinder.
Insert key and turn to "start" and back to "lock.
Insert key and move switch to "lock" position.
Use a small screwdriver to depress the retaining pin. You do this by sticking the screwdriver in the little oval hole in the switch body.
Rotate the key clockwise to "off" position. The cylinder should pop out about 1/8".
Turn the key back to "lock" position and remove the key.
Pull the cylinder out.
To put it back together, put the switch in the "lock" position.
Insert cylinder.
Insert key and turn to "start" and back to "lock.
Just an FYI but I got the monster fixed. It was the electrical part of the switch. If your in a junkyard you can pull the same part off of an early 90s caravan.
Anyway I replaced the electric part. Re-installed the lockset. There was a fusable link burned. They are located on left fender arc between the battery and firewall. Replaced that and plugged a tire now I'm good to go again.
All is well again.
Anyway I replaced the electric part. Re-installed the lockset. There was a fusable link burned. They are located on left fender arc between the battery and firewall. Replaced that and plugged a tire now I'm good to go again.
All is well again.
My electrical box under the switch gets extremely hot while using the AC. The blower motor and windows use the same circuit. The blower would barely blow and the wires got very hot under the switch.
I ran a new power wire from the battery hooked up a relay using the orginal power wire for a signal and WOW!! My blower blows twice as hard and the wires are ice cold now.
I ran a new power wire from the battery hooked up a relay using the orginal power wire for a signal and WOW!! My blower blows twice as hard and the wires are ice cold now.
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