BearKiller

I was laying under there, looking up at those two weird-size brake fittings, my neck in a kink, chunks of grit, rust, and dirt falling into my eyes, debating my next move and dreading cutting and re-flaring those two lines in order to connect them to a splice and bypass the RWAL valve.

There was barely room to wiggle under there, let alone manage to properly handle that double-flare kit.

I wasn't 100% positive that both lines were of identical size.

I had already armed myself with several of every possible size fitting I could possibly need; but the parts-store did not have any step-down fittings, so I could only connect like to like with what I had to work with.

Plus, I wasn't sure how the 20-plus-year-old lines would behave when I tried to flare them and bend them into a new shape; they could just crumble, kink, or break.


So I decided for now, my best plan of action was to leave that RWAL valve right where it was.











I dis-connected the brake-lines and un-plugged the pig-tail, removed the two 1/2" nuts, and the valve was in my hand.

After a thorough wire-brushing, plus a wire-wheel brushing, I set about examining what was what and where it was.

Four Allen screws later, the housing was in two pieces.

The smaller forward brake-line fitting is actually threaded through a "loop" molded into the thick rubber gasket, so it was removed first.

Two hollow plastic rings got their wires clipped and they were tossed in the left-over parts bucket.

Many many springs, needle-valves, and other sundry gizmos also found their way into the bucket.

A big threaded plug came out of the extreme forward end and allowed some more un-necessary springs, needles, and such to be removed.

The only internal guts retained were the big shiny multi-ported whatever-it-is that the small line-fitting threads into, and the two hollow metal sleeves that each end of it fits into and keeps it centered.


That shiny multi-ported gizmo had a tiny tiny orifice that allowed fluid into the outlet fitting, so tiny that a guitar-string wouldn't poke through it.

I put a 1/8" drill-bit down through that tiny hole and opened it up for the fluid to flow freely.

Everything was cleaned up, all O-rings oiled up and replaced if necessary, a coat of RTV smeared over both sides of the gasket, and the housing re-assembled.


The now-gutted housing was bolted back onto the frame-rail and the lines replaced in the fittings.


I opened the bleeder at the gutted housing, plus the bleeders at both wheels.


After a couple hours, brake-fluid began dripping out of the RWAL bleeder; I closed it and waited for fluid to show up at the left wheel, closed it and then the right.

This is the first time since we bought this truck that there has been a single drop of fluid to come out the rear wheel bleeders.

I had the wife hold steady pressure on the pedal while I made certain there was no trapped air.


Back on the ground, she gave it a little road-test.

She could feel the difference as soon as she backed it off the ramps.


While I watched, I had her come down the lengthy gravel incline, about 35* off level, and firmly press the pedal.

The front tires would lock and slide just ahead of the rears taking hold --- no sliding there.

It slid and stopped straight, with no tendency for the rears to grab first.

A little test on the pavement put a big on her face; she said that it was the first time since we got it, some five or six years ago, that the truck acted like it actually had brakes.



So far, so good.



Is this a first; or am I not the first to gut the valve ??

BearKiller

Well, this is DAY THREE; and, so far very good.

apwatson50

I think you are the pioneer on gutting this valve!

I used the fittings below from napa to bypass my valve.

I copied the following from another post by another member

"ANd not just any part numbers. These 2 numbers will ensure dependable consistent stopping for your 1st gen CTD Ram for many years to come. I got the fittings to bypass the useless RWAL valve on these rigs today. I will install them tomorrow as it is raining now, but here are the NAPA numbers-

WEA 7917 & WEA 7828.

Total came to $8.56 with tax. Well worth it, IMO. And I didnt have to buy any lines or do any flaring. Simply unhook and install the fittings in place of the RWAL module/ solenoid. I will try to remember to take pics tomorrow as I do it."

worked for me.

james1

Where exactly is this RWAL valve located on the truck?

Thanks,

bigjohn92

I removed my rwal valve. i love the way my truck stop! i also replaced the vacuum booster an went with hydro booster brakes.
truck stop great now

maybe368

I know that hydroboost was used on late 70s Cadillacs and others, but are the components available new or do you have to take the system off a junker? I think that is my next move...Mark

BILTIT

Hydroboost was available on all 1 ton chevy trucks and all chevy diesels. It is available on many new trucks aswell. You can buy reconditioned units.

maybe368

Thanks, I remember seeing that "do not remove" sticker on the spring canister, I always wanted to remove it, just the way I am ...Mark

bigjohn92

maybe. im looking into the rear disc brakes for my truck . let me know what u think about them.
when u buy or if u buy the hydro booster set up opt for the JB8 option. u can buy them from hopefully from any good parts store. i buy most of my parts from oriellys. u do want to find a hydro boost unit in a junk yard from a 91 3500 or going to use it as a core.make sure u can get the junk yard hydro boost for cheap.

maybe368

Thanks for the info, So far so good on the disks. I think I am going to give the dump valve the bearkiller treatment when I get back to Phoenix. Like I said somewhere on this site, I will have good brakes, or die trying...Mark

BearKiller

Someone mentioned hydroboost.

Many big GM cars had it.

All of the GM diesels have had it, beginning with that converted 350-OLDS junker that they first tried in about 1979 or 1980.

The Ford F-450 Super Dutys had it from the beginning way back in the early-80s or late-70s.

All of the later-model new Super Dutys have it.

The later Dodge trucks also have hydroboost; I am uncertain which year this started.

I may be wrong, but I think that all of them are made by Bendix or somesuch and all are pretty much alike.


I have not yet converted one to hydroboost,but many on the Ford site I frequent have done it; everyone that has added the hydroboost claims awesome braking improvement.

BearKiller

Left inside frame-rail, tucked inside the channel, just aft of the rear axle.

It has two brake-lines and a wire-plug.

bigjohn92

i would have to say the hydro boost is an upgrade worth doing.. i also changed the powersteering pump out to a 2001 dodge steering pump it comes with 2 returns built in .it works great good upgrade to do. next on my list is disc rear brakes.

BILTIT

I did the hydroboost upgrade on my '80 3/4 ton chevy and it was a big improvement.

These guys are well known in the offroad crowd for knowing what they are doing when it comes to hydroboost:

http://www.vancopbs.com/product_p/3855j.htm

brainfade

When you get your booster be sure you get the master cylinder that goes with the application the booster came from. The bolt spacing and clocking on the master end of the boosters varies some as well as the push rod length.

The booster also uses a higher pressure pump. The pump on the truck will power the booster OK, but I have done some testing where the output from the pump was not enough to run both the booster and the steering when the brakes were fully applied and an evasive manuver was attempted (double lane change under full braking). The assist is all used by the booster and leaves you with armstrong steering in some cases.

It's also important to have enough return flow (no restriction) in the return, as even a little pressure in the return from the booster (> 2-3 psi) will cause the booster to self apply.