Thanks.

The Master Cylinder I used: For a 2000 GMC K2500; WAGNER Part # MC131472 {#F131472} 1-1/4" Bore; 8600 GVW; w/Hydro-Boost

It was the closest I found to the stock bore that would fit the booster. I did, however, have to change the flare nut for the rear brake lines. Stock was 9/16 - 20 and the new MC was 9/16 - 18. That was annoying.

The proportioning valve was on the inside of the frame below the master cylinder until the '92 model year.

It took me a little longer than I had hoped to do the swap, but I'm sure you all will get it done with no problems.

 

Me bad I looked a few days ago at the wrong MC on the same chevy truck.

I guess the 40MM is on the vacuum trucks

 

some hydro boost parts.

Master Cylinders : Tallon Hydraulics, Your Machine Shop!

Check out the index at the top of the page.

 

Some good products on that site...thanks for finding it and linking it up!

 

Not familiar with the thread pitch on our brake lines to the proportioning valve directly under my MC. There is one on that link for like $75. Will the thread pitch work on ours? In case that goes one day, I'd like to know if that Prop valve will work for a 93

 

I don't know if the 90 and 93 use the same valve. but I do know the front ports on min 90 are 3/8-24. those are the only ones I have messed with.
I will try to get a look up there(inside the frame rail) later today.

 

The front port on a 93 is 1/2". AFAIK, the fittings on a 93 are all standard (SAE) except for the front port on the MC, which is 9/16-20 where standard would e 9/16-18.

At any rate, all the nuts are available, and given that, some tubing, and a double flaring tool, anything fits.

 

That's what I'm going to do so I can run the 2000 dodge MC.

 

Just got done putting it on my truck. Aggressive Is the word.

Just followed this thread Hydroboost conversion - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Although I used the metal lines and line holder off a 96 chevy 3500 and cut the the rubber line out and replaced with Aeroquip lines and fittings.



FTIW my rod is 1/2 inch in my truck so i welded a 1/2'' & 3/8'' rod coupler to each other & CTF.

 

So was all the work worth it?

 

NO-----------------------------------------------------------Just kidding


They should have been put in at the factory like the old 78 & 79 Mitsubishi diesel dodges.

Now on the other hand if I would had to place the the broken HB that dodge put on the 1st & 2nd CTDs Id still been cursing.

 

I should have done this right after I did the steering box change out.

My brakes really brake.

 

Had my adapter plate all marked out and went ahead and drilled all my holes, then went to tap the 4 holes for button head bolts and it turns out I had a brain fart. I drilled the 4 holes too large and there was almost no material there to tap....Doooh...

So going to have to make up a new plate.

 

Went to fastenal

Got one of these https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/37845

 

I just pulled mine apart to reseal. now to clean it up.
When I took it apart I didn't pull the spring retainer for the power piston so when I got it a part the retainer turned sideways and came out with little effort and not bent