wannadiesel

Yes, it is plumbed just fine. That heater return hose goes down to the water pump inlet, so it's low pressure. The pressure just under the head is higher pressure than the thermostat housing, which is why the trans cooler is plumbed into the block. Just behind the thermostat is still a higher pressure than the water pump inlet so there will be plenty of flow through a filter installed as Jim suggests.

If it was plumbed backwards, coolant would still flow, but the filter was designed to pass coolant from the outside to the inside. It will plug up faster flowing backwards, and the media could fail because it is unsupported in the direction that the flow is pushing it.

edited to correct bad info - thanks Jim

Smkndzl

Wanna, Jim, that was my only concern was not flowing the coolant thru the filter backwards. he has the pressure differential.

Jim Lane

Dave,
Thanks for the cooling system diagram, after you guys said that it got my thinking and I went out and looked at again, the thing that might have led to some confusion is when I noticed that none of the pictures showed the filter head at the right angle to show the arrows that indicated the coolant flow.

How much is the differential between the inlet and the outlet pressures for the heater circuit and does anyone know how many GPM the pump actually flows?

I guess the only I will really tell if it is on right or not is in a couple of months I will cut open the filter and hope the crud is on the outside of the media.


Quote:
I am going to replace these hoses with Silicone hose next time I go to my supply house.
At $3.00 per foot I wanted to get the measurements right first.

After checking my notes I found I made a slight error in the price, the price for 1 foot of the 5/8” silicone hose is $5.35 a foot.

Thanks again.

Jim

wannadiesel

The pressure differential is going to vary widely depending on engine speed and how far open the thermostat is. You have plenty of pressure differential, remember that the lower radiator hose (on the suction side of the water pump, just like that heater hose you plumbed into) has a spring in it to keep it from collapsing.

As far as how many GPM the pump flows, I have no idea. I've never seen a spec on that.

KRB

This brings up a question I've had for a while after reading all your excellent How-tos:

I figured you have a bunch of $ in the truck, not to mention time, thought and effort. Which brings me to the lingering question:

How do you have your 25 year+ truck insured? Not just regular full coverage right? Not wishing to steer this thread off-topic, just a quick question (I had just completed bodywork, paint and rebuilt motor on my 1st car, a '76 Duster when it was totaled and the insurance company paid me only the value of a 20 YO car ).

Jim Lane

I have State Farm Insurance, and I have full coverage, comprehensive rental car and I also carry a higher than normal liability.

So far the insurance company has never questioned the price of the repairs.

My Body Shop Detroit Auto Body I have been going to for years and they are nice people, even if the truck is not being repaired I will stop by just to say Hi.
http://www.detroitautobody.com/index.html

The body shop also happens to be an authorized agent with State Farm so anytime I have to take it in for repairs he can write up the damages without having to wait for the field agent to come and see the truck.

I had asked about that before and he said because the truck is in perfect condition and unless it is totaled beyond recognition he will repair it for me.

These trucks are a lot stronger than the newer versions, which is exactly the reason I wanted the old square bodied style.

With all of the accidents I have had with this truck they have really only caused minimal damage compared to the other vehicle that in most cases always suffers extensive front end damage and the last few were totaled.

I have the big heavy OEM rear bumper that they have had to straighten a few times that stops the small cars dead in their tracks, this is the bumper you want to have, not the light duty ones like the Fey’s that are real thin metal now.

I use this in addition to the ClassVI receiver hitch with my 8 Ton Pintle Hitch in a drop receiver. It is like a battering ram in reverse.

Whenever there is an accident I immediately start a file and am taking pictures even before it comes to a stop, I keep my own records with photographs and narrations of everyone I had spoken to starting with the Police, Fire and witnesses.

This has ruffed up a few feathers when they tell me they never said something and I will come back and inform them of what they said and when they said it.

If something does ever happen I will simply buy it back and repair it myself since I have the skills to do most anything, or part it out and get another truck and start all over again like I did with the last truck before I bought this one.


My insurance is not really very expensive considering of how much coverage I have.

I have never had an accident that was my fault. don’t drink so I can’t get any DUI’s,
I have not had any tickets in probably 15- 20 years now infact I have not had to take a drivers test since 1974, I only have to mail in my money and the DMV send me a new Class1 license although I did give up my TX endorsements some years back so I just have to get a Medical every 2 years.

I did get an AAA card for the 100-mile tow service.

Jim

wannadiesel

Found the spec!

216 l/min @ 121 kPa @ 5250 pump RPM. Drive ratio is 1.88:1.

In English that's 57 Gpm @ 17.6 psi @ 2800 RPM.

unixcowboy

With those specs it would make one heck of a fuel pump !

Jim Lane

Wow,
Where did you find that?

That is real overkill, if it ran that fast it would never have a chance to absorb any heat.

Has the flow rate changed since they modified the impeller design?
Thanks.

wannadiesel

The Design and Development of the B Series Diesel Engine SAE paper 831344

I do not know if the closed end impeller changed the flow rate. I'd imagine it raised it some though.

Another SAE paper of interest is #881851, Chrysler-Cummins Diesel Truck Program.

Rampage1967

How do i get hold of these SAE papers . . .. i'd like to read them over.

wannadiesel

http://store.sae.org/

whosdunit

MR. LANE , just read this stiky about your water filter. First of all your motor is to clean! it don't look healthy(lol). Yours is n/ic, as is mine but my rad., is backwards to mine( i think it s been replaced), cause the top hose is on the drivers side & comes across the front of the engine.It has never cooled to suit me,looking for biggest ,stock i can get,any help appreciated. Beatuful work.

Jim Lane

It sounds like someone had replaced the radiator with one from an intercooled truck, check and see if it is a cross flow.

How hot is it running? these cooling systems in their stock form are already overkill, I have let mine idle for over an hour with the A/C on in 100+* weather and it never crossed the center mark.

Check and make sure the cooling system is working properly with no leaks, no air in the system, cap holding pressure and the fan clutch is not slipping, make sure the hoses are not kinked, the lower hose can collapse from the suction of the pump if the spring is broken or missing.

When mine finally goes I am going to have a custom radiator built with a thicker high density core, I already talked to him about it.

Jim

whosdunit

JIM, cked., all the above every thing good. my therm., is a 180, if it opens at 180 temp., and cooler water flows thru,the therm closes until the water temp., is constant temp of about 180 deg. if i'm cooling water faster than i'm heating then the therm., will close,?which makes my hear gauge go up& down,sooowould a 160( if we can get them) might be the way to go??? I guess this is really a question, let me know if you don been there done that.