cougar

Any one go this route? Shipping to AK is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
Why not. What do I need?
Tank of some sort. Easy enough.
Hoses. Ditto.
Pump? What size and type.
Nozzle(s)? What size.
This will be for cooling while towing so,
Ideas, sources, input, directions? Anything would be helpful.

dzl_damon

My buddy made one with a windshield washer pump, tank, and nozzle. He injected it into the inlet of the turbo. He had it set to only come on with a certain boost setting using a hobbs switch so there was no way he could cause pooling inside the compressor housing. Yeah, might wear away at the turbo eventually but lets face it. Stock turbo's on these trucks are $150-$250!

cougar

With a windshield washer pump he couldn't have put out much. The kits I've seen have 60-100 psi pumps. I did stumble across this;
http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html

big stinky

That would work. Washer fluid pumps put out lots of fluid. Ever seen the amount of fluid on your windshield after pressing the button? (directed at cougar)

If you inject it before the compressor, the pump doesnt need to overcome the boost pressure. It also seals the compressor wheel to the housing. Race car guys do it with superchargers and turbos all the time, but of course with high dollar stuff

And also, as DD said, the alcohol will corrode aluminum.

stillsmokin209

I would go with something like this. Parts are readily available as well.

http://legacy.shurflo.com/pages/new_...0-813-239.html

dzl_damon

It would kick you into your seat when the light would come on! EGT's dropped to.

Like Big Stinky said.... you don't need the pressure because essentially you are injecting into a vacuum atmosphere. The turbo itself breaks up and atomizes the water/methanol molecules, and at high enough boost pressures it will flash to steam.

This latent heat from the phase change of liquid to gas absorbs more thermal energy than the simple temperature change of just warming the liquid up from ambient temperature to the flash point of meth/h2o (similar to the Joules Thompson effect in refrigeration). Arguably by some, when this is occurring INSIDE your compressor housing, some say it helps the turbo to be more efficient at higher compression ratios since the heat is being dissipated DURING compression and not after it (like in the boost pipe before it goes into the engine).

Anyway... just a cheap and dirty method to get it done. Being choosy with your spray pattern nozzle helps some to eliminate pooling. Find ones at a scrap yard with the finest atomization... No shipping to Alaska required!

-Luke

rollin_coal89

power gain? what r all the benifits. i've heard some stuff here and there about water/meth, and i've heard ALOT of pros and cons which has made me hesitate on putting it on my truck... any info would help guys, thanks

1STGENFARMBOY

Whoever does this please keep track with pics and part numbers so we can all copy it.

Dar

wannadiesel

Injecting before the turbo is tough on the compressor wheel. If it's only used for racing or pulling it will be OK, but if you want it for towing you need to inject in the manifold. The other issue is that the water/meth coalesces in the intercooler and becomes a stream rather than a well atomized mist, leading to mixture distribution problems like a carbureted gasser. On a non-IC truck these will not be issues.

Sent from my HD2 using Tapatalk

cougar

I've heard this also and I'm glad you brought it up. I'm use to working around turbine engines and a common practice is water injection into the air inlet. It doesn't harm them, but then again they are huge in comparison. I've also seen what rain can do to a propeller, not pretty. So I'm already looking at an airhorn injection point. It's just figuring out what nozzle(s) and pump I need.

CaptainChrysler

I have read that if you want to inject pre-turbo, you should set it up so that the liquid is directed at the center of the wheel. That way the droplets do not collide with the blades of the wheel. I do not know if this will make it acceptable for a DD, or is just how you have to do it without instantly destroying the wheel.

Just to throw it out there..... In the old days they had a tank full of water that was pressurized by boost. There was a line connecting the tank to the intake and the boost pressure pushed the water into the motor. Old school automatic water injection.

enafzige

For pumps, there's pretty much only one option out there for the 150 - 250 psi range, and it's made by Shurflo for the RV industry. In fact, I think most of the "kits" you buy utilize this pump with their own label on it.

AFIK, there's nothing readily available in the more desirable 300 - 500 psi range. The upgrade from here would be a Haldex style hydraulic pump like from Northern Tool. Some would argue you would then have to run a water-soluble cutting oil to lube the pump.

If you just want to play around with homemade stuff, you might consider using a cheapo electric Karcher pressure washer, and either belt drive it or power it off of an inverter.

The real problem is how to inject how much and when and at what time, if you're looking for a practical benefit from water injection for towing. You can try to stage nozzles with multiple limit switches or hobb switches, but it'd be a little awkward to get a tuned, workable system.

The best option would be a Cooling Mist programmable controller, that allows progressive amounts of water to be injected between a lower/upper EGT setpoint.

--Eric

cougar

So far I haven't seen a pump higher than 250psi. What would be the advantage, atomization? Any thought on high pressure low volume vs low pressure high volume? I know there are "programers" out there already that allows you to use any methos of input to control the flow, but I want to start from the bottom and learn as I go.
I have a need to lower my EGT, so I'm making an experiment out of it at the same time as a "do it yourselfer". Start simple and let it evolve with the learning curve.

John_P

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cougar:

I have been running water injection in my 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve for a LONG time now. I started with one of the first "Snow Systems" and have worked my way up from there and am now running a full blown "Scheid Diesel Water Injection System" with five nozzles machined into my cylinder head.

To help you out here, I am going to give you a link to a pretty long thread we had going over in the 3rd Gen Section on water/methanol injection. There is alot of information in that link and hopefully it should help you make some decisions on what you want.

Here is the link Sir:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n-t248415.html

If there is anything I can do to help you just P.M. me or list it here. I will try to check in to help you in anyway I can.

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John_P

92smokin blacky

Is there a way you could pressurize a tank with water to 150+psi? say an old propane tank or some pressure tank? then run a valve or something then a line to the nozzle with a pressure switch opening the valve off of boost pressure? That way you wouldn't have to run a pump but you would have to re pressurize the tank everytime it got too low of pressure. But it should give you a few runs? Not sure if it would work but it has crossed my mind many times.