93beater

ok well i went on a little 200 mile trip yesterday and my cruise control took a dump, checked the fuse and it was good, i've had to replace that fuse twice, but what could it be now? also i have this erie sound comming from the left front tire, sounds likes metal is rubbing on metal but it only does it sometimes and sounds horrid any ideas? thnaks, cody

Chrisreyn

COdy, the cruise cold be several things.. have you noticed any problems with the brakes?
The cruise works off a vacum resivoir on teh drivers side fender well, and if its a vacum problem, there is a chance you would also feel it in the vacum assist to teh brakes.

as far as the metal on metal sound, that instantly makes me think of a brake dragging or a out of round rotor..

BearKiller

The horrendous screeching is the paper-thin dust-cover tipping the rotor; bend it away and the noise will go away.

93beater

the brakes in my truck have always been horrible, and sometimes not very often but brake pedal will sink almost to the floor, but they always work so idk how to diagnosise a vaccum leak?? sometimes when i hit a good sized bump on the freeway the cruise would shut off then i'd turn it back on and keep trucking? and i thought the little dust cover would be whats making that sound, thanks!

MikeThomas

Im voting clock spring, just solve my problem a couple days ago. Check the switches, Ive heard of them faulting before.

Mike T.

Don't some brake pads give a metal to to metal sound to tell you your pads are worn?

93beater

mike when you say clock spring and switches what do u mean, im 17 and very dumbfounded when it comes to this stuff! thanks, cody

Chrisreyn

Cody, i am betting on a vacum problem.. the only thing connected between teh cruise and brakes are vacum and a single switch.

IF. you have poor vacum, the pedal will "dip" when you hit a large enough bump, disengaging the cruise.. this could also simply be the brake light switch being out of adjustment. It is a bayonet switch that is under the dash, "in front" of the pedal. when the pedal dips or you step on it, the switch indicates you have stepped on the brakes and disengages teh cruise.. if you have a trailer brake controller hooked up, you will see it lite up when this happens....the switch can be moved by accident easily, putting it too far away from the pedal.( did this to myself, drove me nuts figuring it out)

To test the vacum, you will need a vacum pump. I picked a cheap one up at a local auto parts place for $25.
Start at the vacum pump, hook your test pump into the large line and pull a minimum of 15 lbs vacum and hold it. If it leaks down, then you will need to start tracing the vacum lines, checking them individually until you isolate the problem.
Dont forget to test the pump too..... hook your testing vacum pump to it and start the engine. the pump should pull at least 8lbs of vacum. ..

the metal to metal sound could be the dust sheild as BK said, or teh wear indicators or a worn rotor.. with it only happening occasionally , I am suspect of the rotor or pads..youll have to tear into it and see what you find..

TruckU

On my '93 the brake light switch under the dash (which also controls the cruise) slips in the mount, and will start kicking the cruise off on bumps, eventually getting to where the cruise won't even kick in. Your brake lights may or may not flicker, makes me think there are 2 sets of switches in the switch?? Seems like the bouncing of the pedal pushes the switch back.

I'm thinking of putting a hose clamp on the mount to tighten it down more.

Hopefully yours is this simple.

93beater

im not sure if the little brake switch under the dash is my cruise problem, i have noticed it and fixed it, at one time my brake liegths always stayed on, it took me forever to find it haha the metal on metal sound was my drivers side hubb, i thnik i took it apart it was rusty as all could be and rally dry, i greased the heck out of both front hubs and so far the sound has gone away, im gona pull the front and rear diff covers and drain all the gear oil and refill them tom, i've been in some water lately so im just gona be save not sorry, also my 4x4 isint working and either is my cruise, my brother suggested asking if the vaccum pump was what locked my hubbs, because my 4x4 worked right b4 my cruise went out, now i have no 4x4 and no cruise, i guess im gona text the vaccum pump tom, does anyone have any ideas or hints to give me a little help, its must appericated! thanks a ton, cody

Caver Dave

Pretty sure should you have MANUAL hubs (YOU have to twist them to "Locked" or "4x4") and engaging the transfer into either 4HI or 4LO is also a manual after via the shifter (no "push button" vacuum or electric junk on these trucks from the factory).

If you have "auto" locking hubs, that's a potential point of failure... gauranteed to NOT to lock when you need them to!

91.5 beater

That is not your problem with your 4x4 for sure cause on these ol' trucks it is manual everything, on a newer truck with electronic 4wd it might have an effect on it but i am 100% sure it don't effect your 4x4. This is when i'm kinda glad i don't have 4x4 cause it is more of an expense, and extensive when something goes wrong. Your cruise is prolly that vaccum pump sort of thing, and your metal sound is prolly a worped rotor. Have fun and let me know if you need help and need a real truck down there to look at haha. Remember whatever it is, is simple and if it costs alot its just $$$$$$$ who cares.

93beater

well having a 4x4 truck is worth the expense, you'll understand 1 day when you can get one, and the noise im starting to think it might be a rotor or something but its nasty BUT it only does it sometimes, and the cruise that needs to be fixed im gona head on to wrench on her, ill check back in thanks guys!

91.5 beater

Ive got one that can go ANYWHERE and its not worth it to me, we don't need it here all they are is more problems

BearKiller

In all honesty, I have to dis-agree with you.

We were just recently discussing this over lunch at the local resturant.

Myself, I have, and have had, numerous 2x4 and 4x4 trucks, actually many more 4x4 than 2x4.


To say that one is more expensive to maintain than the other, one must look farther than the hubs and axle.

A genuine leaf-spring/straight-axle/manual-hub 4x4, with NP205, is by far less expensive to keep in good safe condition than the same truck in 2x4.

Dis-assemble the front-end of both and count the pieces; the 2x4 will have a bigger pile than the 4x4.

The 2x4 will have several more tie-rods/ends, and numerous locating/tracking devices to perform the task accomplished on the 4x4 by the leaf-springs and straight-axle.

I would much rather pay the bill on rebuilding a 4x4 front-end, than a 2x4.

Also, if you gut the front axle and hubs, making the 4x4 axle into a straight-axle 2x4, the cost to maintain drops even lower, and you still have all the advantages of leaf-springs and straight-axle.

Later model, 4x4 wanna-bes, with their independent axles, disposable front hubs,coil-springs, vacuum axle-connects, and riding-lawn-mower suspensions probably are more expensive to maintain than their 2x4 counterparts.