ironmike

I'm so glad I found this site. I finally got the Dodge I had been waiting to get for a long time--a'92 D-250<br>Stock, 350,000 mi. <br><br>Here's my problem:<br>When I went to change my fuel filter it was filled with rust. The truck runs fine, sounds good, but has no power.<br>I was concerned about the rust chunks going into the injector pump. Is there anything I can do?<br><br>Also, how do I change the shift points? Rebuilt stock trans, TCI converter.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Ironmike

Bushy

Hi IronMike,

Welcome,
It helps to know as much about your truck as possible. Based on what you know, suspect, or have no idea of, will help alot in terms of idea's or warnings....

The fuel filter is literally crucial to pump/injector life.
If it is as dirty as you say, it's pure outhouse luck that the pump hasn't 'calved' on you yet.
This means that the filter was doing it's job, and that you may want to drop/drain/flush you fuel tank. Check the hoses on the truck for deterioration.
The tolerances in the injection pump and injectors is measured in microns in some places, not huge things like mm, thousandths, or otherwise.
You could also run a good health DOUBLE DOSE of fuel additive to help clean things up in the fuel system too... after you install a new filter of course.
Many guys run an aftermarket &quot;primary&quot; fuel filter like Raycor, or one of the others. You can get filter elements that go down to or below 2 microns. Normally I think alot use 10 micron elements.

As for the power, you can make some &quot;free&quot; tweaks to the pump and get some improvement on the performance.
Since the truck has some miles on it, I'd start out easy and see how it behaves, then go up a bit, and so on.
For what it's worth, guages are a necessity. A pyrometer for measuring exhaust gas temperatures (EGT's), a boost guage, and a tach are the three critical ones. For auto tranny guys a trans. temp guage is important to.
Make some &quot;stock&quot; baseline readings, tweak, and take new readings. That way you'll get an idea of what effect(s) your changes have had.
Topics to help you out in terms of &quot;power&quot; are &quot;AFC&quot;, &quot;Starwheel&quot;, &quot;full fuel screw&quot;, &quot;smoke screw&quot;, &quot;diaphram and/or cone&quot;.
Try running a search on those, and we can give you a shove in the right direction as far as what you want from the truck.

Welcome to the 1st Gen family,,,, best darn bunch of them all...

Bob.

hdm48

Ironmike, you didn't say if you wanted those shift points to go up or down. And who rebuilt the tranny?<br><br> dave

ironmike

I was most concerned about the rust that had already gotten into the injector pump, and to see if there was anything I could do about it. The tranny was rebuilt stock by a local shop. The transmission shifts too early. By 25, it is in third gear. It doesn't downshift upon exceleration. TPS?<br><br>Thanks, Guys. I'll read as much as I can on prior posts.<br><br>Happy to be here.<br><br>Ironmike

Nuttymopar

The TPS mostly adjusts when it kicks into OD. I believe it would be the TV cable or kickdown that runs from the throttle bracket down to the tranny. This is very important in regards to the line pressure it places on the tranny. Set wrong and tranny won't last long, from what I hear. This has a Lock Tab located on it and it should be adjusted that when you are at WOT, less then 1/4&quot; of play at the tranny mount should be there. I'm not an expert and had mine adjusted by a DTT Tech but that is what shows on mine.

Bushy

Yes, the TPS is ONLY for 3-4, and 4-3 shift.<br>The throttle valve cable will affect your 1-2-3 shifts.<br>The gap between the rear of the slot on the TVC and the throttle stub should be .018&quot; (18 thou.)<br>Use a 1/8&quot; drill bit shank to set the initial gap.<br>From there you can move the cable in very small increments till you have proper shifting. It really helps if you have a tach.<br>Use 1600 RPM as a &quot;medium&quot; throttle shift value.<br><br>Also, when the trans pan is removed there is an adjustment that will change your shift points. It is an allen screw adjustment (there are two in there so careful does it) one rotation on that allen screw = 75 RPM more/less.<br><br>If you want to go that route I will dig out the manual and describe what to look for. Or you could take it to the tranny shop and tell them you want to alter the shift points a bit.<br>While in there have the idle and WOT line pressure tested.<br>The idle pressure should be about 58-59psi, and the WOT should be about 105psi (??) these are the &quot;upper end&quot; of the recommended range.<br><br>bob.