??? I just bought a 1993 3/4 ton 4wd with my favorite engine the cummins and a automatic trans. I have a '96 3500 two wheel drive with a manual transmission w/ the cummins. My question is my '93 that i just bought shake's like a washer machine out of balance when I stop at a stop sign? As soon as I step on the throttle it smothes back out. My '96 never did this but that is a standard. I called the dealer back and he told me that all the 1st generation cummins with the automatics shake and it is normal. Is this true? Thank you all in advance for any help in this matter. You can contact me by e-mail at woodboat1@aol.com. Thanks again. ???

 

NOT!!!<br><br>The 1st Gens had a problem if they were the clubcab version, and that was due to the center steady bearing mount. It needs a 1/2&quot; spacer inserted between the mount and the bearing to lower the angle.<br>My 93 came with it already installed (May 93)<br>The next thing I'd look at, based on what you describe, is universal joints. Normally applying power or drawing compression will reduce/stop if you are dealing with a universal(s) that are going.<br>BTW, if the dealer is knowledgeable enough to tell you &quot;all 1st Gens do that&quot; then he darn sure should know the fix.... it's the spacer, then the universals.<br><br>I'd start there.<br><br>Bob.<br>

 

Okay, how about a 163&quot; wheelbase Cab and Chassis?<br>Same thing with the steady / carrier bearing?<br>I've been chasing a wheel balance problem on six balanced wheels. ??? [undecided] &gt;

 

The U joints and carrier bearing will give you a pretty good launch shudder until they are fixed but I never had a shudder while braking. I would suspect warped rotors along with possible suspension/steering wear.<br>Bob

 

??? Thanks to all that replied the shake isn't the rotors or the carrier or the u joints the shake only happens when the truck is totaly stoped and goes away as soon as you bring the RPM'S up. It happens a little when it is in park but, more so if the truck is in gear while stopped ???

 

Do you know what your idle rpms are? Rough idle could be a number of things. <br><br>Start by changing the fuel filter. Dirty fuel filters caus all kinds of strang things.<br><br>Make sure your idle rpms are at 750 in gear w/AC on<br><br>If that does not help I think you'll have to look at possible problems with the lift pump, Injection pump, high pressure fuel lines and injectors<br><br>I'll dig through my manual and see if there is anything else to check for.<br><br>Jay

 

You might do a quick check of your motor mounts. Jbolt has some excellant suggestions. I would try his suggestions first and see what developes. Keep us informed as there are a lot of knowledgable people out there willing to help.<br>Bob<br>

 

Wonder if your getting air in the fuel line somewhere that might only show up at lower RPM'S. Fuel filter ok? Injectors dry?

 

Wondering if the previous owner had worked on the injectors and one of the fuel lines is not properly aligned with the injector. <br>---<br>Al

 

Alk most likely hit the nail on the head. I have seen this a couple of times. The feed line head has to be lined up properly with the right angle or a low rpm skip will occur. Loosen all the 17mm nuts and slide nut up line. Align line head by bending to seat properly. Tighten nut and restart truck to test.

 

Thank you all for replying im going to try everything! Keep the suggestions coming!

 

StevieG,<br><br>The steady bearing spacer is needed on all clubcabs, as I understand it.<br>As I mentioned, mine came already installed as it was about one of the last ones assembled before the change over to the 94 model year styling. We figure I even got a 94 head on mine too.<br><br>bob.

 

OK Bob how do figure you have a 94 head? My build date is 6/93, 1 month after yours. Though mine did come from south of the border. How would one tell?<br><br>Jay

 

Look at the side edge of the head, right at the front of the drivers side. There is a raised section about 1 1/4&quot; long with the build date stamped on it. Also just behind the AFC housing. If the head is a true 1st Gen it will have that raised section with the build date, and the area behind the AFC housing will be a smooth edge all along. If (as we suspect) it is a 94 head, the raised section is not there, and the area behind the AFC housing has a notch in the casting (kind of a half oval) out of the head casting. This was done for the P pump.. I can't remember if it was the return line or what.<br>On nascar marks, BCaldwell, Saddog, and a couple others the <br>raised section is there with the build date, as well as the smooth edge behind the AFC housing. On mine they are both notched out, and checking a couple other 2nd Gens they are notched as well.<br>Al at PDR thinks that they must have used a 2nd Gen head at the time because that is what was available and recently in production.<br>If that's the case, then this head will flow a bit better than the original 1st gen heads.<br><br>In your case, perhaps they had some original heads available.<br>bob.

 

Bob- Mine looks axactly like you describe, no raised areas w/ build dates and two cut outs by the ve pump. I would really like to know if this is indeed a 2nd gen head. I wonder how we could find out for sure? <br><br>Jay