Glenn,

You are on the right track with the relays.

This is along the idea I am working with, the headlamps will be connected to the armature of the relay #30 and the connection to the existing system would be through #87a the NC contact.

Where the trick is going to be is how the relays will be triggered since you could not get the power from the headlamp socket.

I found the pair of wires in the steering column where you could pick up the required input.

I just want it designed with redundancy so there is no chance of loosing your lights and not being able to revert to your existing system.

Jim

 

What if we put in a 12v zener diode on the factory harness, to prevent back feed to the relays? Still go with my idea with relays that I posted.

Glenn

 

It would seem simpler to cut the DRL wire at the source and wire it to the high beam side of the relay('s). This would stop the reverse activation of the relays and allow the DRL system to function as intended.

Mike

 

I have gone through 4 silverstar sealed beams... the lows go out too fast!!! I don't even have relays. I went to the brand they sell at wal mart and they're still working great even after a year, but one has lost its seal somehow as consensation is built up inside... I need to put the relays on my to do list.

 

Probably GE . . thier HO series lights are bright & they seem to last.

 

That's what I got - love 'em. Goin' on a year old now...

 

Has any Canuck tried this yet? I did Jim Lanes relay upgrade. Now my DTR pulse. I would have guessed when the DTR module sent a low voltage signal down the high beam relay, that the relay is either on or off (i.e. why don't my highbeams come on when my DTR is activated?). I don't think I completely understand the functionality of a relay. What happens if the switch side of the relay is only supplied with 4 volts? Is this why the lights pulse?....confused.

If no one has tried this yet, I think I'll cut my DTR output and splice on the highbeam outlet of the relay.

 

I've had my headlights powered by relays for over a year now. I simply disabled my DRLs, and turn my headlights on when it gets dark.

Relays like to have their windings powered by close to 12 volts. Trying to turn on a relay with only 4 volts won't work, and I see no point in trying to prematurely wear out an upgraded bulb by having it on all the time when not necessary.

 

I'm now running true HID Bi-Zenon lamps in Hella H4 conversion lenses. I purchased the 6000k lamps which have the brightest white light without being blue. The lamps came with a relay pack that applies battery voltage and uses the High Beam signal to pull in an internal set of relays which effectively move the lamp itself and change the focus. I LOVE these things!! I still have to put together a DIY post for here with picks. The install was simple and took very little time. The biggest problem I have is the DRL circuit. Due to the reduced voltage of DRL the lamp ballasts pulse.... It looks pretty cool since it could be mistaken for the Wig-Wag lamps of police and emergency vehicles..... but then again it can also burn out the High Voltage ballasts.... so I still have to find the DRL module and re-route the output to another set of lamps on the bumper or in the grill. ....