Jim, I am not at work this week, but next week, or if I get close to work I will grab my labscope and get the information. As I look at the headlights they do not seem to pulse to the eye, that is why I want to use the labscope.

With the DRL's only the headlights are on. I have not heard of anyone getting a ticket for the DRL's being inoperative, but have heard of hiway tractors getting tickets for this.

 

For those of us that are not as skilled as others with wire, crimpers, and relays I bought the painless wiring kit which was painless but was not cheap. It came with OEM quality weather packs and relays. I combined this with the autopals bulbs and some standard wattage bulbs.

 

Would this be the painless wiring kit that would apply to our trucks?
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=30815

 

Yes that does look like a generic kit that will fit out trucks.

$145.95
It does look to be of high quality but I see only $40.00 in parts if that.
I see 2 relays, 2 relay sockets, 2 headlight sockets and a fuse holder and 4 screws.

The reason I wanted the voltages were as I was looking at the wiring diagram for the DRL's I noticed that they are connected to both the Low beam and the High beam circuits at the passenger side headlamp socket.

Some of the DRL systems I have seen on motorcycles strobe the headlight, I would think this would be hard on the filament, besides being real anoying to the person you are behind.


Jim

 

Are there legal LED head lights? (that fit our trucks?) I saw what another guy posted but when I read his link I thought it said they were regular?

 

NEAT !!

It would be kinda like a MARS-light on the forward end of a Monon BL-2.

I don't see how the guys that operate those things, for ten or twelve hours at a time, keep from being sea-sick.

 

Jim I got the readings. They are as follow:

DRL system on: Low 0V High 4volts with DVOM
15 Volts, 96 hertz with Labscope

Headlights on: Low 15 Volts High 15 volts <- depending if on Hi or Low

As soon as you turn on the headlights the DRL module does not send out PWM signal. As soon as the headlights are turned off the DRL module turns back on. All of these readings were made after driving the truck and leaving it running.

I thank you in advance Jim for taking the time to try and help come up with a work around for the headlight relay upgrade for the Canadian Models.

 

can some one show me the relay wiring diagram i would like to do this, last night i blew the head light swith and had to drive home 14 miles holding the high beam swicth on

 

In your signature, can you fill in where you are from? When you ask for help then you will get help more readily.

 

There is a good diagram in what we call the "sticky", which is always the first line on the 1st Gen. page, "pinned" there so that it doesn't go off into the sunset, hence the name "sticky".

If you are a little more electrically inclined, there are about as many versions of the relay modification, as there are sites, with all kinds of different tricks that can be done with headlight switching systems.

 

Sorry, I am bad. I misread what you had wrote. They is lots of information in the "Sticky".

But as for giving where you are, lots of guys will step up if you need a hand with anything that needs to be done to your first gen.

 

Quote:
DRL system on: Low 0V High 4volts with DVOM
15 Volts, 96 hertz with Labscope

So apparently they are using the high beams at a reduced brightness as the DRL.

4volts with DVOM
15 Volts, 96 hertz with Labscope

On your DVOM if it has an analog bargraph was it pulsing while registering the 4 volts?

A pulse width of 96 hertz with tungsten or halogen lamp would not be discernable to the naked eye as pulsing.

If you were to connect a LED then it might be to some people.

With the right conditions I can see fluorescent lamps and CFL's strobe, I get a lot of migraines because of them.

As soon as you turn on the headlights the DRL module does not send out PWM signal.

The DRL module is connected through the speed sensor so it has to see movement before it is activated.

Headlights on: Low 15 Volts High 15 volts <- depending if on Hi or Low

15 volts, that is impressive any idea what your terminal voltage was?

It is amazing that the entire Low beam circuit is all 16-gauge wire from the lamp to the headlight switch, while the High beam is in 14-gauge wire.

The addition of high wattage lamps to the stock circuit would defiantly cause heat and damage to the wiring if not sooner but later.

I think I have a fairly simple way to leave the DRL functioning and still have full power to the headlights.

More to come.
Jim

BTW good call to use the Labscope does it display the pulse or just the frequency as a digit?

 

The scope actually shows the square pattern. It also gives me the frequency in digital form. For the voltage it gives me peek voltage and average voltage.

My charging system at the battery is 15 volts. The only difference or voltage drop was to the high beams, it was actually reading 14.46 volts. For factory wiring and not having done any upgrades I am happy with so little voltage drop. I didn't and dont want to measure the ground wire for voltage drops. If I do that then more than likely I will find a problem and then have to start fixing.

 

I don't agree with Jim on the E-code lights I guess.

On lowbeam, yes there is a sharp cutoff line. High beam is just a long reaching regular beam. I can see 1/2 mile out on high beam with 80/100 hella bulbs. I used the autopal housings that are also glass/metal construction.

The only thing I don't like now is that in high beam they are so bright that road signs about blind you :lol:

Andy

 

I was thinking today of the headache that comes with DRL system and think I come up with a fix for us. The standard thought with using Bosch relays is that the power comes in(fused battery power) terminal #30(as called out on most standard Bosch relays). What if we use terminal #30 as the output. The input would be terminal #87 for fused power. DRL would be terminal #87a. What would have to be done is that the output from the DRL module would have to isolated from the factory headlight harness.

How a standard Bosch relay works is: #85 source switch power, #86 ground, #30 fused power in, #87a powered from #30 when relay de-energized, #87 powered from #30 when relay energized. The energizing circuit is done by power in on #85 and ground on #86.


Glenn