Yes you do. Sorry man, been down that road. But if you are able to do the work yourself it doesn't hurt the bank account as much. Good luck with the build! If you have the cash good time to upgrade stuff < see there is a bright side to this story....

 

I have another engine from a 93 that I think I will throw in there. If I chose to repair the engine from the 90 what am I looking at for cost. the other five cylinders look great still have the cross hatch in them. How hard is it to shoehorn a cummins in. The one I have I took out after the front clip was off so it was a breeze to get out. swapped several 350s and a couple of 351 windsors in the past.

 

Cost is gong to depend on how deep the scratches are. Then you have to decide if you're going to bore and sleeve that one cylinder or bore then all and run over sized pistons. Last time i had a motor bored i think it was like $15.00 a whole then to have crank and cam bore checked and aligned was a little more. Then you should go ahead and have the deck and head ran as well.

 

Its all the other parts that are expensive. New Cummins head bolts were about 160, just the upper gasket set from Cummins was around 200 and quality bearing, ring, and piston kits I've looked at range from about 1300 to 2300!

 

That sucks,

I've seen complete rebuild kits for the trucks for about $800. You can bore the block and 20 to 40 over.

Do the sleeves come out of the 6bt?

 

6bt doesn't have sleeves. You would have to have it over bored and then find the sleeves you want

 

Oh, there are cheaper kits out there. When some buddies and i ran a dirt track car we built several motors out of the cheap kits. You can get the same performance but not longevity. Those motors were commonly refereed to as claimer motors. You didn't have enough money in it to care if it was taken apart or blown up

 

If money is important, and it were mine, I'd pull the pan and #5 piston. Check the inserts for wear, (expect to be minimal) and give the hole a light honing to see if the scratches hone out. Put a rag over the crank of course. If you can clean up the scratches without going out of spec, you could put in 1 new piston and rings, head gasket set and bolts, and put it back in service.

If the bearing is out of spec, just hang it up right there and swap engines or rebuild. Probably bore 20 over, pistons, rings, inserts, cam and cam bearings, and head overhaul.

Engine comes out of frame reasonable, except you need a tall cherry picker and enough shop head room to clear the stick.

If you want your complete engine professionally rebuilt and dyno tested, this is the place. Not cheap, but will be like new.

Reviva

 

this scoring looks to me to be past what could be honed out but not something that wouldn't be fixed with a 20 thou over bore. I would almost bet that it will need new bearings also because the front seal on my injection pump went and filled the crank case with diesel. Since the my oil pressure has been reading a little lower than it used to. The pump on the 93 engine is wired a little different than my 90 isn't? I thought i read somewhere that the KSB is opposite or something like that. I have a big aframe with a chain hoist to pull the engine. My engine lift won't be big enough to pull a cummins. I think I will invest in an engine leveller before I pull it thou.

 

The 90 pump KSB gets power full time, and has a wax motor timer built into it. The 93 gets power through a switch till a certain warmup point. All the wring is on the engine, so if you move it as an assembly you won't have an issue.

 

Do you know the condition of this other engine? If you need the truck on the road now then just swapping engines would be an option. But if you could give it a bit of time and money I would much rather go threw one of the two engines and build it, but that's just me. 0.020" is deep to say the least. So my honest opinion would be to at least have a machine shop check the block.

You do know the pistons on an intercooled and non intercooled engine are different? Non are wider which will allow for more timing with your intercooled injectors. But then you run into injecor bore differences.

Lots of different routes you could go here. Depends on wallet, time and what you want/need the pick up to do.

 

I need the truck for work so it has to be on the road asap. The donor engine was in great shape when it was pulled the truck it came from was rusted badly.

 

I dont have the wiring harness for the 93 engine any more can I just swap the ksb from pump to pump or should I just swap pumps.

 

Just re-wire the KSB. All the parts are there, only 2 short wires are missing/different. Wire from FSS to temp switch (nearby) and wire from temp switch to KSB.

 

Got the pig out this afternoon. I thought my crane was lots tall enough but not quite. Needed to flatten the tires a little bit. Pulled engine out with the fan on it. Next time I will take the fan off because with the fan and the clutch on the engine bay is about a half an inch to short. Also thought there were only six bolts holding the bell housing on, but alas there was another hiding behind the clutch cylinder. No harm done but sure had me scratching my head for a while. Looks to me like the injection lines on the intercooled engine will be in the way of the nonintercooled air horn. I may just swap pump and lines over.Are the threads on the top of the injectors the same for intercooled and nonintercooled?