Grounds
What year truck?
Pull your negative cable and ream it and the post then crank it back on. This fixes a lot of grounding issues. On my '93 there is a body ground on the core support right in front of the battery. It looked fine and felt tight, but it wasn't grounding well.
Pull your negative cable and ream it and the post then crank it back on. This fixes a lot of grounding issues. On my '93 there is a body ground on the core support right in front of the battery. It looked fine and felt tight, but it wasn't grounding well.
Can`t have enough grounds lol. Dont forget to check where the neg cable bolts to the block down by the vac pump, mine was all crusty, I cleaned it and added a huge ground strap from that mounting to the front of the frame by the spring hanger crossmember and also another big cable from the pass fender area (by the a/c rec/drier) to the alt case mounting...all that was an effort to fix my whacky pyrometer (shouldve checked MY wiring inside the truck 1st lol).
What year truck?
Pull your negative cable and ream it and the post then crank it back on. This fixes a lot of grounding issues. On my '93 there is a body ground on the core support right in front of the battery. It looked fine and felt tight, but it wasn't grounding well.
Pull your negative cable and ream it and the post then crank it back on. This fixes a lot of grounding issues. On my '93 there is a body ground on the core support right in front of the battery. It looked fine and felt tight, but it wasn't grounding well.
When I rebuilt the truck everything was working great for months, now this started happening and I'm wondering if I missed something.
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Yeah, I'm not sure what is going on. My wipers only manually work now and the heater blower is offline with my right side fron turn signal out
. I messed around with the ground on the firewall and it was sparking pretty good.
I didn't know if Dodge had a color code for grounds in the wiring harness. My thought was to bring everything back to the battery and then strap that to the frame.
Time to check fuses when I get home.
. I messed around with the ground on the firewall and it was sparking pretty good.I didn't know if Dodge had a color code for grounds in the wiring harness. My thought was to bring everything back to the battery and then strap that to the frame.
Time to check fuses when I get home.
Use a OHM meter and start checking the grounds to everything.
Hook the meter to the negative battery terminal. Check to that body ground behind #6 valve cover. Check it at the body not the wire itself.
Then check from battery to the lower dash support. If the lower dash support doesn't show a ground. Check to see if you hooked the ground wire to the support. It hooks up behind the cargo light.
Hook the meter to the negative battery terminal. Check to that body ground behind #6 valve cover. Check it at the body not the wire itself.
Then check from battery to the lower dash support. If the lower dash support doesn't show a ground. Check to see if you hooked the ground wire to the support. It hooks up behind the cargo light.
Use a OHM meter and start checking the grounds to everything.
Hook the meter to the negative battery terminal. Check to that body ground behind #6 valve cover. Check it at the body not the wire itself.
Then check from battery to the lower dash support. If the lower dash support doesn't show a ground. Check to see if you hooked the ground wire to the support. It hooks up behind the cargo light.
Hook the meter to the negative battery terminal. Check to that body ground behind #6 valve cover. Check it at the body not the wire itself.
Then check from battery to the lower dash support. If the lower dash support doesn't show a ground. Check to see if you hooked the ground wire to the support. It hooks up behind the cargo light.
Now on your heater not working. The power comes from the ing switch. Then threw the fuse block to the heater controls. On the back side of the heater controls about even with the vent button. There is a on/off switch. It then goes to the blower motor. The blower motor has power whenever the heater controls are on. The grounds for the blower motor go back threw the blower switch. From that switch they go to the resistor block mounted in the cowling behind the glove box.
I would check to see if you have power to the blower motor with the ing on. The heater controls turned on. If you do not have power at the blower motor. Check that on/off switch on the back side of the heater control block.
Whenever your chasing what might be ground problems. You have to have a good multi meter. I would suggest one of the fluke meters. Do not buy a meter based on price only. Buy quality. A cheap meter does not last very long. I prefer fluke or Beckman/ wavetech brands. They hold up good. Cheap meters can melt or explode on higher voltages. Seen that many times while working in factory maint.
BTw also get the optional lead kit. That gives you a selection of different ends for the meter. On the leads almost all meters interchange.
I would check to see if you have power to the blower motor with the ing on. The heater controls turned on. If you do not have power at the blower motor. Check that on/off switch on the back side of the heater control block.
Whenever your chasing what might be ground problems. You have to have a good multi meter. I would suggest one of the fluke meters. Do not buy a meter based on price only. Buy quality. A cheap meter does not last very long. I prefer fluke or Beckman/ wavetech brands. They hold up good. Cheap meters can melt or explode on higher voltages. Seen that many times while working in factory maint.
BTw also get the optional lead kit. That gives you a selection of different ends for the meter. On the leads almost all meters interchange.
Fixed this, it was the ground to the cab near cylinder 6. The wires were black in the copper (old?) and just brittle. Even though it looked hooked up when I yanked the wires off they sparked and the blower motor kick on. I cut the coating back but I seem to not be able to get away from the black in the copper. Put some butt splices on there and hockey taped them all the way to the battery neg.
I cannot believe the difference, I was driving so many years and the blower motor worked.. never push that much volume of air. I'm happy now, just need to fix this grounding mess near the battery.
I cannot believe the difference, I was driving so many years and the blower motor worked.. never push that much volume of air. I'm happy now, just need to fix this grounding mess near the battery.







