My 91.5 D250 leaks oli down the side of the mtr. . I would like to replace the gasket in behind all that "stuff", it's not a bad ( or big) leak ,,,,it just looks bad ,,,just don't know what to call the gasket down at the parts house,, a part # would be great ,,THANKS




whosdunit.

 

Tappet cover gasket. Also called push rod cover gasket.

FEL-PRO Part # PS50397R

VICTOR REINZ Part # PS38801

Pain to change.......... gasket is cheap though.

 

Thanks ,Pat,,sounds like you been there done that! How hard is it ,,,2-3 hrs. ,,,?


whosdunit.

 

You need to remove the injection pump and almost every thing of that side of the engine.

 

are the cover bolts loose?

 

Hey gang,,???? Didn't think about that,,,man wouldn't that be just alright,,,I'll give them a try ,,. It won't happen until the weather is a whoooole lot warmer if I have to do it( put in new gasket). Thanks '

whosdunit.

 

I hate the stock tappet cover...

The first motor build I did, I replaced that gasket and everything properly and the tappet cover leaked worse than ever. Said "screw it" and ordered a billet tappet cover, which after my latest build leaked too, figures

Stupid things... or maybe stupid me, who knows.

 

I learned how to put on a tin cover or pan 50 years ago when I was hangin' around Danny Barthelemew's garage.

When the screws are over-tightened, they'll deform the metal inward. That can cause leaks immediately, and deform the metal so a new gasket won't seal.

1. "Straighten" the cover, defined as using a small ball peen hammer to form each screw area till it's flat to slightly raised from flat.
2. Clean and scrape the pan and the mating surfaces.
3. Apply the appropriate adhesive. Used to be Permatex #2, now usually Permatex blue.
4. Install the pan, tighten to just snug, usually seen as squeezing adhesive out.
5. After adhesive sets, torque the screws, but not enough to visibly deflect the metal. This varies widely on the application.
6. If in a difficult to reach spot, or just to to do a special good job, back out each screw one at a time, apply loctite blue, and reinstall to torque.

The two key events are straightening the cover, and not over torqueing the screws.

 

yeah back then I didn't think to do it when I rebuilt the motor and by the time I discovered I had to fix it after the motor was in the truck and running I was too irritated to bother with the stocker at that point. I just ordered the billet

imo the stock tappet cover is a pretty cheap piece considering how everything else on the motor is so durable