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G M ALTERNATOR IN A 1st. GEN. ???

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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 04:57 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BearKiller
JIM, can you, or anyone else, point me in the direction of an internet source for 8-rib pulleys that fit the LEECE-NEVILLE ??


As best I can tell, they must all have the same shaft diameter.

Thanks.
Any shop thar rebuilds truck alternators will have them, I got mine from my local shop and I think it was about $10.00 new, a used one should not cost very much if not for free.

Check your phone book for a shop that rebuilds truck alternators.

Hey before you guys decide to install one hold on a bit, I have made some changes to the brackets and wiring,

I will do a new article with all of the changes with pictures but I am busy at work so it might take awhile.

Jim
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 05:22 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Ace
Thanks Jim, I guess I am just not clear on the ground part then. I thought the alternator would be grounded through the case by virtue of being bolted to the engine. No worries on the PCM, mine is collecting dust in the corner of the garage along with some other redundant parts now.

No, the alternator has an Isolated ground, it can be configured for both Negative or Positive ground.

A lot of truck are Positive Ground.
Jim
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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My intentions are to fabricate an entirely new bracket that is completely a bolt-on affair and leave the original bracketry un-molested.

I will also leave the original wiring and regulator and just insulate any exposed HOTs.

The LEECE-NEVILLE will have it's own seperate wiring/cabling system.

Thus, I can carry the complete original alternator, along with it's bracket/bolts (and BELT, should the LEECE-NEVILLE require a different one), in the tool-box; and, in the unlikely event that the LEECE-NEVILLE should fail, I can easily/quickly go back to the stock system and carry on.


One of the many advantages of having extra trucks and engines is the ability to design and fabricate stuff on the spare engine and get it like you want it, without the inconvenience of dis-abling and having to do without your main transportation.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Ace
Thanks Jim, I guess I am just not clear on the ground part then. I thought the alternator would be grounded through the case by virtue of being bolted to the engine. No worries on the PCM, mine is collecting dust in the corner of the garage along with some other redundant parts now.
I always run a ground cable as large as the positive cable from the block to the alternator, and to the frame. Yes, the Alternator is grounded to the engine by the bracketry and its own case, however, if any of that stuff gets corroded, or loose, you can have big problems. Think of it this way. If your alternator is putting 160 amps into the battery via the positive cable, it has to do the same via the negative cable.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BearKiller
JIM, can you, or anyone else, point me in the direction of an internet source for 8-rib pulleys that fit the LEECE-NEVILLE ??

Originally Posted by Jim Lane
Any shop thar rebuilds truck alternators will have them,

Check your phone book for a shop that rebuilds truck alternators.

Jim

The nearest thing that resembles an alternator shop around here is probably 100-miles away; I live in the welfare bucket of the world, isolated from modern conveniences.




Originally Posted by Jim Lane
No, the alternator has an Isolated ground, it can be configured for both Negative or Positive ground.

A lot of truck are Positive Ground.
Jim
Originally Posted by Thunderhog
Yes, the Alternator is grounded to the engine by the bracketry and its own case,

EXCEPT, in alternators such as the LEECE-NEVILLE, in which the GROUND is ISOLATED from the case.
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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EXCEPT, in alternators such as the LEECE-NEVILLE, in which the GROUND is ISOLATED from the case.[/QUOTE]

D'OH! Indeed it is!
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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What are the output specs on the "555" I need to increase my output at idle, my truck is a gasser with a 136 Amp Nipodenso unit now that I was going to upgrade to a Mitsubishi 215 Amp unit I picked up but the 555 would be easier to mount.



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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 12:22 AM
  #23  
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JIM LANE,

Please check your dimensions and compare to this one :


http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ovepulley.aspx


The O.D. is almost identical to that of the standard Dodge/Cummins pulley.

The bore is .001 larger than the shaft of the 110-555 (if my information is correct); is that close enough, or will that .001 of slop be too much ??

Thanks.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BearKiller
JIM LANE,

Please check your dimensions and compare to this one :


http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ovepulley.aspx


The O.D. is almost identical to that of the standard Dodge/Cummins pulley.

The bore is .001 larger than the shaft of the 110-555 (if my information is correct); is that close enough, or will that .001 of slop be too much ??

Thanks.
The Leece Neville shaft is 22.190 mm -22.202 mm

I do not think that .001 would be a problem.
Jim

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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 04:45 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bogie
What are the output specs on the "555" I need to increase my output at idle, my truck is a gasser with a 136 Amp Nipodenso unit now that I was going to upgrade to a Mitsubishi 215 Amp unit I picked up but the 555 would be easier to mount.




How many amperes do you need?

The 110-555JHO will output about 100-amps @ 2000 shaft RPM or a fast idle idle depending on the ratio of your drive pulley.



Here is some technical information.

http://www.prestolite.com/literature...31_110-555.pdf

Jim
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Post

Originally Posted by BearKiller
My intentions are to fabricate an entirely new bracket that is completely a bolt-on affair and leave the original bracketry un-molested.

I will also leave the original wiring and regulator and just insulate any exposed HOTs.

The LEECE-NEVILLE will have it's own seperate wiring/cabling system.

Thus, I can carry the complete original alternator, along with it's bracket/bolts (and BELT, should the LEECE-NEVILLE require a different one), in the tool-box; and, in the unlikely event that the LEECE-NEVILLE should fail, I can easily/quickly go back to the stock system and carry on.


One of the many advantages of having extra trucks and engines is the ability to design and fabricate stuff on the spare engine and get it like you want it, without the inconvenience of dis-abling and having to do without your main transportation.
The way that I set mine up I can remove the Leece Neville and reinstall the ND back in its original location in about 20 minuets.

The bracket will accept both alternators.



Like said, I will do an article with all of the mounting changes as well as how to connect it.

Jim
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
The Leece Neville shaft is 22.190 mm -22.202 mm

I do not think that .001 would be a problem.
Jim


Thank you, Mr JIM.


So far, I have bought TWO (although I have not seen them yet) and on the prowl for three more.

May as well have all of them alike; it makes life a lot simpler.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
The bracket will accept both alternators.
BRILLIANT INGENIOUS THANK YOU

I had looked at that picture a dozen times and did not catch the fact that the bracket was still usable for the original alternator.

That little bit of information will make my life a lot easier.




What changes, if any, on the bottom mount ??



Like said, I will do an article with all of the mounting changes as well as how to connect it.

Jim

I will be watching for it like a fat kid watching for the ice-cream truck.
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Old Jun 21, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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i'm getting all worked up just reading this one. got to love it .
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Old Jun 22, 2009 | 10:51 PM
  #30  
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Mr. JIM LANE,

Please, what is the outside diameter of the pulley on your Leece-Neville ??


The stock Dodge pulley is 2.3", give or take.

Many thanks.
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