G M ALTERNATOR IN A 1st. GEN. ???
Check your phone book for a shop that rebuilds truck alternators.
Hey before you guys decide to install one hold on a bit, I have made some changes to the brackets and wiring,
I will do a new article with all of the changes with pictures but I am busy at work so it might take awhile.
Jim
Thanks Jim, I guess I am just not clear on the ground part then. I thought the alternator would be grounded through the case by virtue of being bolted to the engine. No worries on the PCM, mine is collecting dust in the corner of the garage along with some other redundant parts now. 

No, the alternator has an Isolated ground, it can be configured for both Negative or Positive ground.
A lot of truck are Positive Ground.
Jim
My intentions are to fabricate an entirely new bracket that is completely a bolt-on affair and leave the original bracketry un-molested.
I will also leave the original wiring and regulator and just insulate any exposed HOTs.
The LEECE-NEVILLE will have it's own seperate wiring/cabling system.
Thus, I can carry the complete original alternator, along with it's bracket/bolts (and BELT, should the LEECE-NEVILLE require a different one), in the tool-box; and, in the unlikely event that the LEECE-NEVILLE should fail, I can easily/quickly go back to the stock system and carry on.
One of the many advantages of having extra trucks and engines is the ability to design and fabricate stuff on the spare engine and get it like you want it, without the inconvenience of dis-abling and having to do without your main transportation.
I will also leave the original wiring and regulator and just insulate any exposed HOTs.
The LEECE-NEVILLE will have it's own seperate wiring/cabling system.
Thus, I can carry the complete original alternator, along with it's bracket/bolts (and BELT, should the LEECE-NEVILLE require a different one), in the tool-box; and, in the unlikely event that the LEECE-NEVILLE should fail, I can easily/quickly go back to the stock system and carry on.
One of the many advantages of having extra trucks and engines is the ability to design and fabricate stuff on the spare engine and get it like you want it, without the inconvenience of dis-abling and having to do without your main transportation.
Thanks Jim, I guess I am just not clear on the ground part then. I thought the alternator would be grounded through the case by virtue of being bolted to the engine. No worries on the PCM, mine is collecting dust in the corner of the garage along with some other redundant parts now. 



The nearest thing that resembles an alternator shop around here is probably 100-miles away; I live in the welfare bucket of the world, isolated from modern conveniences.


EXCEPT, in alternators such as the LEECE-NEVILLE, in which the GROUND is ISOLATED from the case.
What are the output specs on the "555" I need to increase my output at idle, my truck is a gasser with a 136 Amp Nipodenso unit now that I was going to upgrade to a Mitsubishi 215 Amp unit I picked up but the 555 would be easier to mount.


JIM LANE,
Please check your dimensions and compare to this one :
http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ovepulley.aspx
The O.D. is almost identical to that of the standard Dodge/Cummins pulley.
The bore is .001 larger than the shaft of the 110-555 (if my information is correct); is that close enough, or will that .001 of slop be too much ??
Thanks.
Please check your dimensions and compare to this one :
http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ovepulley.aspx
The O.D. is almost identical to that of the standard Dodge/Cummins pulley.
The bore is .001 larger than the shaft of the 110-555 (if my information is correct); is that close enough, or will that .001 of slop be too much ??
Thanks.
JIM LANE,
Please check your dimensions and compare to this one :
http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ovepulley.aspx
The O.D. is almost identical to that of the standard Dodge/Cummins pulley.
The bore is .001 larger than the shaft of the 110-555 (if my information is correct); is that close enough, or will that .001 of slop be too much ??
Thanks.
Please check your dimensions and compare to this one :
http://store.alternatorparts.com/par...ovepulley.aspx
The O.D. is almost identical to that of the standard Dodge/Cummins pulley.
The bore is .001 larger than the shaft of the 110-555 (if my information is correct); is that close enough, or will that .001 of slop be too much ??
Thanks.
I do not think that .001 would be a problem.
Jim
How many amperes do you need?
The 110-555JHO will output about 100-amps @ 2000 shaft RPM or a fast idle idle depending on the ratio of your drive pulley.

Here is some technical information.
http://www.prestolite.com/literature...31_110-555.pdf
Jim
My intentions are to fabricate an entirely new bracket that is completely a bolt-on affair and leave the original bracketry un-molested.
I will also leave the original wiring and regulator and just insulate any exposed HOTs.
The LEECE-NEVILLE will have it's own seperate wiring/cabling system.
Thus, I can carry the complete original alternator, along with it's bracket/bolts (and BELT, should the LEECE-NEVILLE require a different one), in the tool-box; and, in the unlikely event that the LEECE-NEVILLE should fail, I can easily/quickly go back to the stock system and carry on.
One of the many advantages of having extra trucks and engines is the ability to design and fabricate stuff on the spare engine and get it like you want it, without the inconvenience of dis-abling and having to do without your main transportation.
I will also leave the original wiring and regulator and just insulate any exposed HOTs.
The LEECE-NEVILLE will have it's own seperate wiring/cabling system.
Thus, I can carry the complete original alternator, along with it's bracket/bolts (and BELT, should the LEECE-NEVILLE require a different one), in the tool-box; and, in the unlikely event that the LEECE-NEVILLE should fail, I can easily/quickly go back to the stock system and carry on.
One of the many advantages of having extra trucks and engines is the ability to design and fabricate stuff on the spare engine and get it like you want it, without the inconvenience of dis-abling and having to do without your main transportation.
The bracket will accept both alternators.

Like said, I will do an article with all of the mounting changes as well as how to connect it.
Jim
Thank you, Mr JIM.
So far, I have bought TWO (although I have not seen them yet) and on the prowl for three more.
May as well have all of them alike; it makes life a lot simpler.
BRILLIANT INGENIOUS THANK YOU
I had looked at that picture a dozen times and did not catch the fact that the bracket was still usable for the original alternator.
That little bit of information will make my life a lot easier.
What changes, if any, on the bottom mount ??
I will be watching for it like a fat kid watching for the ice-cream truck.
I had looked at that picture a dozen times and did not catch the fact that the bracket was still usable for the original alternator.
That little bit of information will make my life a lot easier.
What changes, if any, on the bottom mount ??
Like said, I will do an article with all of the mounting changes as well as how to connect it.
Jim
Jim
I will be watching for it like a fat kid watching for the ice-cream truck.







