Hello, what is the difference between the auto meter mechanical fuel pressure gauge I can get from summit for $40 verses the $130 from genos? Will the auto meter from summit work fine on the diesel? I will be using it on the banjo bolt I bought from genos. THANKS

 

Geno's sells a kit. Isolator, banjo bolt, all necessary tubing and hardware. Maybe Summit only sells the gauge.

Get yourself a Westach electric fuel pressure gauge and be done with it. You're throwing the money away on a mechanical. Unless you only want it for a temporary troubleshooting tool. Then I can see a mechanical gauge being worthwhile. BTDT. Geno's sells the Westach gauge ~$69.

 

I gotta argue with you there, Bill. With a snubber in the line the mechanical gauge will hold up fine. I'm running a $10 mechanical gauge with a $6 snubber.

There are always some good deals on pressure gauges here: http://surpluscenter.com/

Mine's a "water" pressure gauge.

 

I agree I've only heard BAD things about electronic fuel pressure gauges. From everything I was told mechanical is the only way to go.

 

What is this snubber thing Wanna.I am going to put a guage in my truck to.

 

A snubber is used to damp out pressure pulsations it helps the gauge last much longer by stopping the pulsations pounding on it

 

How dare anyone doubt me?? . Did I mention BTDT, been there done that. Give it time Dave, you gauge murderer!! Snubber = slow death to said gauge.

 

The problem with a mechanical fuel preassure gauge is two-fold:
1) legal and
2) fuel leaks (the reason for reason number one).
If there was a failure in a mechanical fuel gauge, or the line running to it, you run the risk of filling the cockpit with fuel. This is more a problem in gassers and aircraft, but no safety inspection will pass a mechanical fuel gauge (without snubber) iniside the cabin. They can be mounted outiside, ie: on the hood or fender.

It would be off topic, but I could tell a story about a Piper Comanche and a lap-full of hot oil at 8,000 feet. Simple line failure - it had rubbed through at the firewall where the gromet used to be- totally toasted the engine.
Cheers
Bob

 

bgilbert or anyone else, will the electric gauge work with the tapped banjo bolt? Is there room for the sending unit? Any pics would be great. THANKS AGAIN

 

My old D250 covered the floorboards with oil early one morning, so I'm familiar with gauge tubing failure. That's why there's a ball valve right on the banjo bolt. Any trouble upstream and that valve gets closed.

If the gauge dies I'm out $10.

 

If there's room for all that, an electric sender will fit.

 

Thanks wannadiesel, now if I can only find where that spot is on my engine so I can change the bajo bolt. Thanks

 

Im at 4600 feet but on the ground. I would never run an electric guage, mechanical are true, electric is not as reliable. I put 2 restricted fittings in line and the gauge is steady.

 

Where can the banjo bolt, snubber,bleed valve,and ball valve be purchased from one source or close to it?

 

The more "traditional" FP guages use an isolater in the line...from the banjo to the isolater is diesel fuel, from the isolater to the gauge is usually a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze.
The isolater is there to provide a non-dangerous relay medium to the guage head and to "regulate or moderate" the pulsation coming from the pump.
To be fair though in our case the issue isn't really death and carnage for the guage (at least I don't think it is) ....it's more applicable to the higher pressure aftermaret lift pumps and/or the higher pressure pumps on the later model 12 valve engines....
Still, it would be a good idea to have an isolater in the line to keep "Murphy" out of the picture....
Just a thought...

pb....