Front crank seal service kit?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Front crank seal service kit?
Can someone tell what each one of these 4 items are that are in the front crank seal service kit - 3804899? In particular the black piece. I see three of them in the service manual, the red one is the oil seal, clear plastic pilot tool, (I'm guessing), metal alignment tool, and the black one?? It has a metal ring inside of it, it isn't all rubber. The service manual doesn't say anything about it, or maybe it does, I'm just not reading it correctly. It's not pictured in it though.
Reliablegoods.com calls it a SHD_DUS. I'm guessing it means dust shield? Also if anyone knows what it is, tell me the order in which it goes on the crank, in front of or behind the oil seal. Pictures of these items here: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...d.php?t=162697
Reliablegoods.com calls it a SHD_DUS. I'm guessing it means dust shield? Also if anyone knows what it is, tell me the order in which it goes on the crank, in front of or behind the oil seal. Pictures of these items here: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...d.php?t=162697
#2
the metal tool is you depth installer, the thin black looking seal is you dust seal and should set flush with the seal hole. the plastic piece is your install tool if you remove the timing cover so you can get i over the crank!
Make shore every thing is dry!! the seal has to acualy burnish to deal properly!
I'm speeking from 2nt and 3d gen experence but i beleve it's the same seal!
Haven't needed to replace mine yet!
Make shore every thing is dry!! the seal has to acualy burnish to deal properly!
I'm speeking from 2nt and 3d gen experence but i beleve it's the same seal!
Haven't needed to replace mine yet!
#4
Originally Posted by bgilbert
Does the dust seal go on last then? The manual also says to use a loctite over the outside diameter of the oil seal??
Yes the dust seal go's on just before the HB is installed.
#5
Are you going to install the seal with or with out removing the cover!
the seal is a real pain in the but to install!
My self, i like to put the seal in the frezer for a bout a 1/2 hour before install, make a big differance
the seal is a real pain in the but to install!
My self, i like to put the seal in the frezer for a bout a 1/2 hour before install, make a big differance
#6
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Thread Starter
Well I might be out another $40. I drove the seal in deeper on the top than the bottom. I'm sure this will be a problem, reckon? This is what happens when one gets in a hurry....
Flash, from the looks of things, driving it in with the timing cover bolted on, looked easier. Plus I didn't have the 'tool' to drive it in straight with the cover off. I had everthing needed to install the seal with the cover on. BTW, this engine is out and on the floor. I might've done different if it was in chassis.
Flash, from the looks of things, driving it in with the timing cover bolted on, looked easier. Plus I didn't have the 'tool' to drive it in straight with the cover off. I had everthing needed to install the seal with the cover on. BTW, this engine is out and on the floor. I might've done different if it was in chassis.
#7
Originally Posted by bgilbert
Well I might be out another $40. I drove the seal in deeper on the top than the bottom. I'm sure this will be a problem, reckon? This is what happens when one gets in a hurry....
Flash, from the looks of things, driving it in with the timing cover bolted on, looked easier. Plus I didn't have the 'tool' to drive it in straight with the cover off. I had everthing needed to install the seal with the cover on. BTW, this engine is out and on the floor. I might've done different if it was in chassis.
Flash, from the looks of things, driving it in with the timing cover bolted on, looked easier. Plus I didn't have the 'tool' to drive it in straight with the cover off. I had everthing needed to install the seal with the cover on. BTW, this engine is out and on the floor. I might've done different if it was in chassis.
I wouldn't wory about it being straight just tap it out a little with the right size socket and re seat the seal.
It wont leak unless the seal it's self is damaged.
You did say that you remove the cover,...right?
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#8
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by flashgordon
You did say that you remove the cover,...right?
#10
Originally Posted by bgilbert
I did to inspect the bolts and kdp. I then installed the cover (without seal) alignment tool in place so to install the cover correctly, new cover gasket, grey rtv, and torqued all bolts. Then attempted the crank seal install.
I have, set the seal in to fare before just to get the lip of the seal to sit on a non grove(smooth spot of the crank! if you havent put it, to far, thats what i would do!
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by flashgordon
I have, set the seal in to fare before just to get the lip of the seal to sit on a non grove(smooth spot of the crank! if you havent put it, to far, thats what i would do!
#12
Originally Posted by bgilbert
Hmm, that gives me an idea. I do have considerable wear on the crank, but don't want to spend the $100+ for a wear sleeve install tool. I might just tap the bottom of the seal in further so it doesn't ride on the grooved area of the crank and will be in the same depth all the way around. I don't think it's TOO far. I'll have to feel around and see if I went all the way through the hole.
Soooo you building a new hot rod, or just refreshing you old one?
#13
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by flashgordon
If i remmeber right you can sink the seal dubble before its at the bottome of the hole......don't now how far you can go before you bottom on the crank!
Soooo you building a new hot rod, or just refreshing you old one?
Soooo you building a new hot rod, or just refreshing you old one?
No hot rod, just gettin a 90 6bt ready for my crew cab. Just takin care of the front and rear seals, since they are easier to do out of chassis.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bgilbert
I might just tap the bottom of the seal in further so it doesn't ride on the grooved area of the crank and will be in the same depth all the way around. I don't think it's TOO far. I'll have to feel around and see if I went all the way through the hole.
#15
Originally Posted by bgilbert
Well I tapped the bottom portion of the seal into where it would be even depth with the top of the seal.... it's TOO far . I can get a angled pic between the seal and cover. Gonna try to see if Cummins will sell the seal only 3935959 and not the $40 kit. In a hurry and at night with minimal lighting . Live and learn I guess.
just remove the ccover and reinstall it!
EDIT
remove the seal and put it in the freezer,loctight it back in and it will work,us the plastic pease to get it back over the crank.