I changed pistons at the same time and removed my M&H spacer, added pushrods and 165# springs but mine idles much smoother and like David said, winds up free revving noticeably quicker as well. I originally attributed it to other things, but it was more likely the fluidampr

 

Why did you remove the spacer, if you don't mind my asking?

 

on a motor as modified as mine, I honestly don't think it will prove to be beneficial for what my goals are.

I'm not the only bombed VE motor not running one. Infact, none of the big (guys attempting 450+ on a 12mm H&R) power guys run one that I know of. I know a couple are experimenting with adjustible KSB delete type devices but I haven't heard a verdict yet so I'm just going to run what was originally put on them.

On a closer to stock motor I would probably run one, but that's not what I have.

 

i am doing this mod and about to put it all back together. curious of the wiring colors.. the sensor side is all black. after the connector the wire is black yellow and blue. which ones pair up with the red white and black? or maybe it doesnt matter?

 

You shouldn't need to cut your original harness....just re-route the wires.

I personally have not installed the engine bay wiring yet. But I did find some pics of other installations, and it appears that if you run the wiring up the outside edge of the timing case cover you don't need to modify the wiring.

 

that's a lot of money, im just wondering if its worth it?

 

I figured if I have to replace the old one with an OEM unit...that's gonna cost me at least half the cost of a Fluidampr. So may as well just go for the best unit.

I can say that it definitely smooths out the motor, especially at higher RPM's. And the addition dampening of vibrations, from a motor that has far too many vibrations, this unit can only be good for parts.

 

Thanks for the write-up. This has been on my list of things to do for quite a while.
When I build the 4BT for my 1941 WC Military I will be using a fluid damper from the start.

 

That should be a sweet truck...will you have a thread going somewhere as you build it up? I'd like to follow along.

 

Yes, for sure. I intend to make that my daily driver because the mileage should be really good.

 

In the archive now....

https://web.archive.org/web/20171101...ummins-316489/

 

Thanks, TC. I remember using this tread, to the tee pretty much, to assist me in my FD install. You did a great job.

 

So does running a fluidampr necessitate removal of the CPS every time you replace the serpentine belt?

 

Yes, James. That was an actual concern of mine, at first. To slip the belt off and drop, like to change out the water pump, no you do not have to remove the CPS. Only if you have to change out belts do you have to remove it. Just two bolts, and swing the CPS out of the way.

I had my machinist uncle make me a couple of aluminum feeler blades, at the gap of .054( if I remember this is the gap spec) and I keep those in the glove box just for that rare occasion if I ever have to remove the belt.

I believe I read somewhere a matchbook cover folded in half gets you really close to gap spec.

Don't let this bit of a hassle deter you from installing a FD, if you're considering it. A FD is a great addition to our trucks. Idle quality improved on mine, along with smoothness at 1800-2000 rpm's.
My truck doesn't do the wet dog shake anymore like it used to every time I shut the engine down.