Leakin like the EXXON Valdez..
OK, I went to the dealer and I ordered the gaskets for the tappet cover and the one on the injector pump and they should be here in a few days.
What I am looking for now is some advice from those out there who have changed this gasket as to in what order to proceed and what special wrenches I will need to remove the bolts on the IJ pump flange and to remove the nuts on the fuel lines at the pump. Is there a wrench made or do you make your own. (do old manifold wrenches help at all) Does the pump come off the gear or do I have to remove the entire timing gear with pump attached.
My plan is to set the timing on the engine to say TDC and then index the injector pump so I can just return it to its origional spot.
How critical is the timing on the cummins engine if it is a few degrees off? and if I need to , what are the specs. and how do I time the pump.? Gee, I hope it is not as bad as the ones I have had on my GM 6.2 to set up.
Where can I get some decent pictures of the side of this engine? I checked the dealers computer and they were doing good to find the gaskets I needed and a picture of the IJ pump.

My truck is a 1991 D-350 LE 6BT non-intercooled W/727 auto trans. so it has all of the options hanging on the engine. The outlet from the turbo goes across the top of the engine and into the intake manifold.
While I have the pump off is there anything I should check on at this time?
What are the things I should be careful of during this venture? Are there any lines that are hard to get out or break easy like banjo bolts or hoses to watch for?
Thanks in advance for any advice and I hope it goes smooth.

BTW does anyone know if you can replace the rollover valve on the fuel tank without dropping the tank? I also want to extend the vent line because whenever I fill my tank, I have diesel dumping allover the ground if I go too far. I am assuming that this is the problem however the previous owner had installed a transfer tank in the bed and might have a line open when he removed it?
After the job is complete will I need to bleed all of the injector lines or will they purge themselves.
When I was at the dealer, I ask him how much the parts were for this engine IE block, head and he said he can get a complete engine for my truck, it would take 1 week. When I asked the price he said it was $10,000.00 plus tax.

Thanks guys. Jim L.

 

My fuel tank would leak also after a fill up, when I had my box off the truck
for bodywork I found that the screw-on retaining ring for the fuel sender unit
was loose. I tightened it about half a turn and my leaking stopped.

 

Who can afford to fill up now?

 

Go to Harbor Freight and get a set of metric "S" wrenches and a set of metric crow's foot wrenches. The 13 mm "S" wrench is THE tool for the bottom nut on the IP. The crow's feet will help you with the bundle of snakes at the back of the pump. Number the lines so you don't get mixed up.

The gear stays in the case, the nut is accessed by removing the oil fill. Don't drop the nut and washer in the case.

If you make a good set of match marks you can put the pump right back where it was.

 

I have a Harbor Freight store about 10 miles from here so I will be going there in a few days. By metric crowsfoot wrenches do you mean a regular open end or do I get a flare wrench? and also do you get a 1/4" or 3/8" drive? I will probably just get both kinds because I can always use them somewhere.
BTW where can I get the tool that you stick in the bellhousing so I can bar over the engine with a 1/2" drive wrench? I have not checked the dealer yet but I would probably have better luck at Cummins wouldn't you think.
Thanks Jim.

 

The barring tools come up on Ebay frequently. Cummins probably has it, or flag down the Snap-On guy. I just use the alternator nut and turn the motor backward - it's free.

The flare end ones are better for the lines, they are 3/8" drive.