dvst8r

So after almost 6 month's of 48-50psi on an hx35.12 The heat (many trips to 1800 F pre turbo) and the drive pressure of 50psi of boost from that little hotside finally popped the stock head gasket.

Nothing to dramatic, just have oil coming down the outside of the block, under the exhaust manifold, nothing in the coolant, and the oil on the dipstick looks well like oil and not frothy mix. That and it will only make about 42psi of boost, I checked the turbo, still no more play side to side then when i put it on, and none front to back, turbine side looks good no sign of oil coming past. All the blades look good on both sides. So I am quite certain it is just leaking out combustion gases at that point.

It has finally warmed up enough that I can stand to work in the garage (no heat in there) I had bought arp studs a couple months ago, and now they are going to go in, as well as the .020 over gasket.

I am trying to decide what other parts I should buy and install while I have the head off. I might have it o-ringed, but am not sure at this point. Won't bother having it ported yet. I will have it pressure checked and checked for flatness as well. I am thinking about 60# exhaust springs, but haven't heard really any first genners doing that so I don't know if it is worth it.

Plans for the truck while it is under the knife this time:
-Borgenson steering shaft $250
-Fix power steering leak $?? 250 maybe?
-Head gasket $100
-Studs (already own)
-(maybe oring head) $500ish (with machining it flat)
-Twins with the GT4294 I have sitting in the garage ([turbo i already own] steel, wire, gas, lines, silicone, flanges $500)
-Clutch ($1000)
-Exhaust 5" turbo back (piping, flanges, wire gas $250)

Total estimate for this round of mods $3000 +/- $500

I am going to leave the sticks till later, as they will be $1000ish for good custom ones, as well as pump work as it will be $1000ish too. As well as I am going to leave it non intercooled, until I stumble into an intercooler deal i just can't pass up.

I will fab it all myself, I plan to pull the truck off the road the beginning of march and slowly work on it till June or July or really till whenever I am done.

I am going to start with the hx35 as is, and then will go from there. I might add the gds 60mm wheel down the road as well as a larger exhaust housing, and if I feel that primary is getting to small, I have an HT-60 on my garage floor as well. (I know, I am a turbo ***** )

So give me a list of things you think I should add, as I am sure I have forgotten something.

Older pic of the truck in question:

DNRCustoms

Looks like you have a good plan... What size meats are you running.... 36"??

sdubfid

I think he said they are 40" military.

How about a colt cam? They are only $300-$375. I had one on my old turbo civic and some of the best customer service around. A local common rail guy used the stg 3 and claimed mileage went from 16 to 18 and 100-200 degree egt reduction.

Can't wait to see the results of the "GILES" pump.

Tubular manifold? Milling off the intake?

dvst8r

Those are 40" military's, but they are just for weekend fun. The truck runs 285's for most of its time.

Last I knew, Geoff @ Colt was still supplying for Piers exclusively and you had to buy through Piers. I will call Geoff this week, I have been meaning to talk to him about some (Honda) D series turbo cams anyway. If I can pick up a regrind for >$400 I will do that as well.

Gilles won't get the pump won't be till after this stage is done. Same with port work and manifolds.

My biggest part I am unsure at this point is 60# valve springs, or going to F1's or just staying stock. Well that and any other parts I may have forgotten about.

PapeCAT

What about a cam and 60lb valve springs on that one.

dvst8r

I really haven't seen anyone with a first gen upgrade to the 60# springs, so I was wondering if there was a reason, and if I am doing spring if I should just do the cummins 60# ones, or goto an F1 spring, or a hamilton or ect...

The cam will just be a pricing thing, or it will have to wait for stage 2 or 3. My capped budget right now is $3500 and my priorities are the head gasket and steering issues. Then twins (the single hx 35 is just too hot for anything but really light playing.) then clutch, then things I would "like to have."

Oh if someone has a cummins factory manual on pdf like that wonderful getrag one, and they would like to email it too me I would be very appreciative.

sdubfid

What is the turbo d-series project? My colt cam was for the old 1.5L 12 valve (84-87), it was a blowthrough carb setup. My good friend is running a comp stg 2 cam on his d16z6 with vitara pistons and holset turbo. He is very happy with it so far.

The colt cams/pdr thing is over now. You can buy colt from peak diesel, hamilton diesel or direct I'm pretty sure. PDR is stocking another manufacturer.

If I can get a good 12v core to send in I would get a regrind myself. Probably stg 2. Wonder if they do group buys?

As for springs hamilton diesel has done lots of testing on springs on comp d. If I was buying springs I would go with the hamilton ones. He can also get increased ratio roller rockers but more for pulling/racing trucks $$$.

I take it you are a diy kinda guy. I was browsing last week and found a website where a guy in europe who o ringed his own head in his drill press. It was a pretty cool build he was doing. Lightening the counterweights in the crank, balancing all the pistons, total seal rings.

GasganoFJ60

Power steering leak? I dont think youd need to spend money on a new pump. You can get a power steering pump rebuild kit for about $65. That should lighten up your budget a bit.

Crossy's son

read what this bad boy does

http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/Re...2V-599-30.html

60lb springs will let it rev higher without valve float, i've seen a 91 non i/c with 60lb springs run 3900 rpm on a dyno with a 3200 gov. spring.

YOU ARE definely planning on a pretty good fuel supply right? like not a stock diafram (sp) lift pump but something pretty good that will maintain a steady 15psi to the pump. I hope.....

dvst8r

From?

Still have to get the Borgenson shaft, my stock one is toast.

dvst8r

That sounds like the same camshaft description they have had for years. If the deal is over with PDR I will get a Colt, Geoff sponsors a bunch of the local drag racing and is a good guy, I have bought at least 15 cams from him over the years, and will continue to when I can.

I'm gonna let the debate of Hamilton or F1 or 60#'s go for a few days, then I will decide.

As far as fuel 1/2" lines, twin walbro's (aeromotive a1000 is too loud, and not reliable for daily use, I have had several on my drag cars, and are great for that, but nothing more) Cat high flow twin fuel filters and housing, areomotive boost referenced fuel regulator.

dvst8r

There are two cars one with a d16z6 and another with a d16y8, both with vitara's and fjt rods, one with a holset he351, and one with a T3/T4. One will be a low 10sec car, one a low 11sec car.

I am a diy guy to a point, and I don't trust my drill press to make a round hole let alone to put o-ring groves in my head. I just happened to weld for a living once upon a time, and still do a fair bit of cage work and charge piping work, ect... I have a dynasty 200dx, and an autoset180 at home, as well as I was a snap on tool rep for a couple years, so I have a decent set of hand tools around. Build a set of twins diy, fix the steering issue diy, put a cam and HD valve springs in diy, Machine the head flat and putting o-rings in take it to a pro (for me).

This is as much the process as the final result for me. If I was really worried about making a ton of power, I would have bought a CR, went with mpi twins and twin cp3's a built auto, and a smarty, and 800hp+ is at your doorstep. I enjoy the problem solving and fabing and actually building the twins, as much as the driving them after.

Already after stage 1 I will have more into the truck then what I paid for the truck or what I could get out of it. I love wrenching and welding as a hobby, but HATE it as a job. I make good money BSing on the phone all day, and like to unwind in the garage. Every year I collect more tools, so maybe one day diy o-ringing may be in my relem of diy.

Fergavs

Well you should do the 60lb springs. I run them on my truck. When I bought the ported and O-ringed head from Piers I made sure to get the springs and upgraded valve seals as well. The better seals will help everything seal under high boost obviously. If your planning on pushing the RPM beyond the 3200rpm point or installing the cam then the springs are needed in my opinion. I run the max spool 2 cam on my truck and WOW what a differnece!! I did a lot of other mos at the same time but with the amount of fuel I toss at my truck I feel it reduces the EGT's substantially. Also I can spool the 64mm turbo like it is a stocker so it must be helping there too. I did the .020 over head gasket when I popped it a while ago and love it except for cold starting. When it dips below 0deg celcius the truck hates me. It misses and smokes like crazy till it warms up. Looks like a good list of mods, I just got my Borgenson shaft as well, its being installed this weekend but thats on the other cummins.

dvst8r

Who makes the upgraded valve seals?

Even if it is plugged in it still has a hard time starting under 0? My truck is just a toy so it isn't a huge deal, in fact I was kinda thinking of pulling the grid heater too. That truck already is a bare to start below -5C if it is not plugged in so its not a huge loss.

Well I guess at a minimum I will order the 60# springs, and still might get some hamilton's instead.

Fergavs

Not sure the manufacturer of the better valve seals. PDR installed them when I bought the new head. The truck has no grid heaters so that is definetly part of the cold start problem. Having it plugged in may help but this is not a winter truck for me. I had to move it in the late fall/early winter and thats when I noticed the poor cold start. The slightly lower compression probably accounts for a lot of the cold weather smoke however, A LOT of cold weather smoke. lol.