Alrighty ... I have three vehicles... My dodge, wife's ford, and Yukon XL I'm trying to sale ... I'm gonna test all three tomorrow after they have idled and come up to temp. ... I can probably borrow another multimeter to test with as well

Three different vehicles... Two different multimeters... ???

Jmartin I can't thank you enough for your patience and wisdom

 

Well fellas ... I tested three different vehicles with two different multimeters today ... Here are the results (the first reading is my multimeter, the second is borrowed) ... Readings are at battery terminals after idling for 5-6 minutes

92 dodge CTD ... 15.1...14.9
07 ford exp. ... 14.2...14.0
04 gmc yukon... 14.3 ... 14.1

Now I can't say if my meter is high or the borrowed meter was low but ... They were completely consistent in the 0.2 volts difference across the board... Later on I even got brave enough to check my house voltage from an outlet with my meter... 120.7.

I'm pretty sure I'm charging almost a full volt high ... What is the extended damage probability?

Only gonna be on the VR for a couple weeks as I'm getting ECM from stateside... And I only drive the truck 20-30 miles a week

 

From everything I've read on these external VR's, it's not supposed to matter which wire goes to which terminal. But have you tried switching them around to see if it changes anything?

 

Yep no change ... Would the ASD relay have anything to do with high voltage reading

 

ASD should have nothing to do with it.

It could cause a no charge condition if you were running thru the PCM though.

 

The only other thing I can think of doing, would be take the alternator off, and carry it into a an alternator shop, or Napa if they can bench test, and have them test just the alternator, to see if it's an internal problem with the alternator.

 

My alternator is less than 2 months new ... It would charge fine (although I never checked it with multimeter just the dash needle) before I installed the VR ... The catch was that it would not charge until after the truck was really warm and "something" made electrical connection (I assume and am almost positive it's the ECM) after the engine got warm enough.

The old alternator would charge after whatever got warm enough to make connection ... The battery needle was little over the 12volt mark

The new alternator would charge after whatever got warm enough to make connection... The battery needle was much closer to the 14volt mark

I decided to install the VR only temporary so I could get ECM remanufactured (having BIG trouble getting that done) ... That's when I started checking stuff with multimeter... Grounds, shorts, volts etc...

 

Supposedly oreilly's in the states can send your PCM in to get rebuilt, other than that finding a used one is about the only option I know of.

 

Just got off phone with Oriellys not five minutes ago and they have no stock.

I'm starting to think I'm gonna have to "de-computerize" the CTD... I've got a few options for used parts but you just never know

 

Ol dodge let me know what you find out. I am having the same problem to a T.

 

Hows it going?
So what was the outcome?
I have the same thing going on with my truck. Keeps blowing the VR every 2000 miles or so.
I think I will just delete the ECM but cab not find a simple straight forward list of how to do it.
I have a '92 CTD dually 5 speed truck with 190k miles on it. Speedo or odometer dont work, along with a bunch of other things.
Can anyone help me out?
Thanks!

-Shiny