1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

dual battery

Old Dec 14, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #16  
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From: Maine
Originally Posted by Subliminal
Damon,

I hate to say it, but I think you have a serious boost leak going on!
Ah... THAT'S what that was!

I think I got some duct tape 'round here somewhere
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #17  
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From: Thunder Bay
Originally Posted by big hose
dzl damon that pic is what i was thinking im only going to run them in parallel for more starting power it was 17 below last night after 12 hours of work there is not a lot of battery left to crank
I pretty much did what DZL did but with 2x 875 CCA batteries but I just turned them sideways in the existing tray and clamped them down with the factory top clamp thingy and a block of wood.
It was -30C (-22F) here last night and I didn't plug my heap in and I just cycled the heaters twice and she started right up after 2-3 cranks. Considering you're not too far from me, I'd recommend doing it. It's been just about the most convenient upgrade I've done for my truck. You'll probably feel the same. Makes starting a non-issue in the winter. It's nice knowing I don't have to worry about the truck not starting. Last winter with a single battery it wouldn't start if it dropped below -20 or so.
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 08:46 PM
  #18  
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One more bit of maintenance that will get the most benefit from however many batteries one has is to follow BC747s write-up in the "stickies" and refresh the starter.

It is amazing how much stronger the cranking is when the starter is in peak condition.
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 10:03 PM
  #19  
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I looked at my batteries the other day and a previous owner stuck a pair of group 24's in it.

One of the first things I do with the gasser once I get it going is going to be to put twin batteries in it.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 06:26 AM
  #20  
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From: Land of milk and honey.
Originally Posted by Bogie
Dual Optimias fit in my gasser

I was at autozone and looked at these batteries. Man, they are $169.99 ea!
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 03:30 PM
  #21  
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From: Sterling, Va
Originally Posted by dzl_damon
x2 65 series batteries. 880CCA each



I bought 2 cheapy battery trays for $12 each at Napa, fastened them down to my existing tray sideways, and then strapped it down from there.
Where did you pick up the cables? Got a part #??
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 04:25 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Mike337
Where did you pick up the cables? Got a part #??

I am gonna venture a guess and say that those cables are custom-made.
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #23  
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From: Maine
Original cable to first battery. 2/0 cable between the 2 terminals. The FWD battery is a normal, soldered 2/0 connection and the aft battery is a cable in, cable out found at Napa. Buy 6 soldering "pellets" (2 for the double, and 1 for the single). Buy some soldering acid for cleaning the cable too. just set the terminal in the vise, drop the pellet in there, squirt acid on the stripped cable and heat the terminal with a propane or Mapp gas torch. When it starts to bubble push gently the wire into the terminal untill you feel it melt and immediately stop applying heat. Hold for 15 seconds or more to cool. I also put heat shrink to be super fancy!

I got a terminal with studs as you see on the FWD terminal. Off that I run a 1/0 cable to my maxi fuse block, and my body ground off the negative terminal (not hooked up in that pic).
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:30 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by dzl_damon
Original cable to first battery. 2/0 cable between the 2 terminals. The FWD battery is a normal, soldered 2/0 connection and the aft battery is a cable in, cable out found at Napa. Buy 6 soldering "pellets" (2 for the double, and 1 for the single). Buy some soldering acid for cleaning the cable too. just set the terminal in the vise, drop the pellet in there, squirt acid on the stripped cable and heat the terminal with a propane or Mapp gas torch. When it starts to bubble push gently the wire into the terminal untill you feel it melt and immediately stop applying heat. Hold for 15 seconds or more to cool. I also put heat shrink to be super fancy!

I got a terminal with studs as you see on the FWD terminal. Off that I run a 1/0 cable to my maxi fuse block, and my body ground off the negative terminal (not hooked up in that pic).
You need to make sure you neutralize the tining flux (acid) when you are finished or it will continue to eat the copper strands if any wicked up the core of the cable.

Also use adhesive filled shrink tubing to completely seal out all of the elements.

Looks good.
Jim
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 02:44 PM
  #25  
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DIdn't think to neutralize it Jim. What do you use, baking soda?

I didn't use the adhesive shrink wrap, but I bought a kit of all the sizes of it. That stuff is AWESOME, even thought it is pretty pricey just for shrink wrap. You know it does a good job though.
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 07:32 PM
  #26  
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I bought two marine shrink tubing assortments at Harbor Freight and did my whole trailer and then some. Best place I found for it was a semi-trailer parts/supply shop.

It also helps hold the wires together when you use a crimp connector.
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 04:51 AM
  #27  
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Here is where I got most of my battery terminal supplies from, I was working on Class-A Motor homes and the owner got me the entire kit including terminals, lugs, welding cable in 100' rolls, crimper's, cutters, adhesive filled shrink tubing in all about $2000.00 worth.

http://www.noco-usa.com/

On page -14 you can see the different types of cast copper terminals I have it include Left, Right, Straight and Flag terminals from 2-gauge all the way up to 3/0 size. I also have an assortment on Copper lugs in various sizes.

I have about 75# of terminals.

http://www.noco-usa.com/online-batte...g.aspx?Page=15

Heat Shrink is on page #46

On page #56 & #57 these are the crimper's that I have, each of the terminals and lugs are color coded and all you need to do is to set the rotating dies on the head to the corresponding color for a perfect crimp.


NAPA stocks Military terminals.
When you get them make sure you get both the Positive and the Negative.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...222_0282494478

They also have just about any size and style you could need to build your own cables.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...=0&Ntk=Keyword

You can get welding cable at most any local Welding Supply

Jim
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 05:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dzl_damon
DIdn't think to neutralize it Jim. What do you use, baking soda?

That would be fine.

You can get a good flux for electrical wiring at most hardware store, always use Rosin Core Solder and never Acid Core Solder

http://www.delcity.net/store/Liquid-Flux/p_793373.a_1


I didn't use the adhesive shrink wrap, but I bought a kit of all the sizes of it. That stuff is AWESOME, even thought it is pretty pricey just for shrink wrap. You know it does a good job though.
You could use Liquid Electrical Tape, it comes in various colors or you could coat the terminals in Plasti-Dip and make your own color coded terminals.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...lectrical+Tape

http://www.hilltronix.net/index.php?...my1392626oar49,

Jim
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