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Drag link

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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #1  
rebal's Avatar
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From: Yuba city Kalifornia
Drag link

Now I really like my first gen but I am at my Witt's end with the crappy parts I get.I have tried super lift ,tuff country,skyjacker,and Moog,Napa and cant get one to last more then a year and a half with 700,000 miles i have spent a small fortune on drag links some one has to make one that can be tightened up like some of the ones used on big rigs. does any one know of a cure for this ??
I keep the front end serviced regularly and I have a tire balancer and keep them balanced.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 03:09 PM
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From: Waiahole, Hawaii (island of Oahu)
Do you have a lift on your truck? I have a 2" Skyjacker front spring lift. Considered very moderate, I was told I could simply install an adjustable drag link to re-center my steering after the lift was installed. WRONG. I went through 2 drag links from Skyjacker and Superlift within a year (I changed brands to see if it would help). I have my 3rd link on now that's a Skyjacker. 4 Wheel Parts told me 2" is minor but let me tell you, it DOES change geometry. I had to install a drop down steering arm to take the stress off of that tie rod end on the drag link. Skyjacker makes an arm for 2-4" of lift, 4" lift and 6" lift. Been going great for 2 years now. Many have stated that they have had no problems with an adjustable drag link and moderate lift. I tried it that way and I drive my truck every day and have had 2 drag links fail until I installed the drop down steering arm. I also kept it well greased and it still failed from the stress of the angle and weight of the diesel. Hope everything works out for you.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 05:57 PM
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rebal's Avatar
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From: Yuba city Kalifornia
yes I do have a 3" lift front 4" rear the truck drives good until the drag link fails. I have tried them all, but the ball end wear out so fast that by summers end I am looking for a new one. you dont have a part # for the drop arm do you??
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 06:16 PM
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From: Waiahole, Hawaii (island of Oahu)
Skyjacker part is DA20 for 2 to 4" of lift. DA40 is for 4" lift and DA60 is for 6 to 8" of lift. As I've mentioned in my first post, I haven't had a drag link failure since I installed a DA20 on my truck.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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From: Springfield, Ohio
Same problem on the 92 that I had. The P.O. put a 4" gas truck lift on it and it also wore out the drag link. I also put the DA20 on it and it was good for the next 10,000 miles and I sold it not much after that amount of miles.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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From: Ida Grove, IA
I would look into the spacer for the steering arm above the king pin, IMO. It seems to me that the dropped pitman would add extra stress steering box and adapter plate.

I recently changed out my drag link for a GM style. The ends are physically larger, and have 60* of movement.(nor sure what the Dodge is) You will have to ream out the pitman arm for the larger tapered stud. The taper is the same (1-1/2" pet foot), but the GM is larger in diameter.

At the steering arm on the axle I reamed it "backwards" so that the drag link comes down from the top, rather than up from the bottom. Why did they do it that way in the first place? Anyways the taper of the GM end is big enough to allow this. You will need an adjustment sleeve slightly longer than the GM one. The ends are Moog ES2026R and ES2027L.

This made the DL basically level front to rear, at stock ride height. It tightened the steering up to the point that you really notice the bump steer. I like it, but still want to go crossover. I may end up lifting it just for that reason.

But....I do think this setup will last longer than the factory one, cheaper too.
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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 08:28 PM
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From: Apple Valley Ca.
Go crossover you won't have that problem any more
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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From: Golden, Colorado
Originally Posted by CaptainChrysler
I recently changed out my drag link for a GM style. The ends are physically larger, and have 60* of movement.(nor sure what the Dodge is) You will have to ream out the pitman arm for the larger tapered stud. The taper is the same (1-1/2" pet foot), but the GM is larger in diameter.

At the steering arm on the axle I reamed it "backwards" so that the drag link comes down from the top, rather than up from the bottom. Why did they do it that way in the first place? Anyways the taper of the GM end is big enough to allow this. You will need an adjustment sleeve slightly longer than the GM one. The ends are Moog ES2026R and ES2027L.
I think I am going to try doing what you described here and I have a couple questions. Did you also use a drop pitman arm? Do you have a part number or length of adjustment sleeve that you used?

Thanks, Aaron
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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From: Ida Grove, IA
ES362S is the Moog adjuster sleeve for a GM truck. It is what I used, but it is borderline too short. I would use a longer one if I were to do it again. I am still hoping to go crossover anyways. I used the stock pitman arm, reamed to fit.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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From: Queens, NY
Use a drop pitman arm over a steering block, the block adds extra stress and can cause more play due to flexing.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 07:47 PM
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The drop pitman arm will fix your problem. But crossover is the way to go.
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 09:59 AM
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From: Golden, Colorado
Captain, thanks for the info, one more question what brand of reamer did you use? I found a lot of negative and positive posts all over the internet about the snapon reamer. I don't know if I want to give that a try or if I should find a different brand?

thanks, Aaron
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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From: Ida Grove, IA
I got my ream from Carl at Stock Car products:

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp13a.htm

I am sure you know, but it's 1-1/2"/foot. I have only used it twice, but it is showing no wear. When you ream the steering arm on the axle you are removing a fair amount of material. I wouldn't want to do that by hand.
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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From: Golden, Colorado
Thanks for the info, I will get the one you recommended since it worked good for you.
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