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Does anyone's brakes work?

   
Old Jun 23, 2011 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by maybe368
No, it is a proportioning valve. Dodge calls it a combination valve because it has a sender unit also that turns on the brake light when there is a problem. I believe that all combo-disk/drum setups needed them to delay the application of the front disks a tad, to prevent spin-out...Mark


Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Stude4x4
I don't know what the secret is. It seems that some trucks stop great and some don't. For mine I think i'm going to do the disc upgrade in the rear and bypass the abs system. I also thot I would ditch the prop valve and install an adjustable one for the rear. I do think that our front brakes are a little antiquated. I'm talking about the caliper slides. I have all new brake stuff on all four corners, plus new master and booster. But my pedal is too soft for me. About two months ago I had the front end apart and I decided to clean the caliper slide contacts on the bracket and caliper with a sander and I regreased them. After that the pedal was a little more firm. About a week after that it went right back to where it was. I'm with Mark. I will have good breaks someday. I'll figure something out.

Jake
You could get the outer assemblies from a Ford dana 60 and have 2 piston calipers. I believe you have to change everything from the kingpins out though as the ford has a different pattern on the spindle.

Also I can tell when the rear drums are out of adjustment by the peddle position. I bet this is a major reason why most peoples brakes suck is because they never adjust the shoes.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...tegory&path=37
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by apwatson50
I bet this is a major reason why most peoples brakes suck is because they never adjust the shoes.
In my case, you would lose. It is not that simple. That is why I am installing disks, to eliminate the rear drums altogether. Adjustment is and was not my problem. It is most likely a failure in an already replaced, pretty expensive part (you can imagine whichever, because it applies to them all). I have a hard time believing that EVERY rebuilt booster, MC or modulator valve is bad, but I suppose that with a glaring lack of pride in workmanship that seems to be the rule of the day, it is possible. One thing I wonder is an air gap problem with the exciter ring and sensor. The repair for this is a rear end rebuild...that is just not right just to have working brakes, a communist conspiracy I think ...Mark
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by BILTIT
None of those kits include calipers. The problem with most, less expensive kits, like pirate 4x4. is they require welding, which is not my forte, and the calipers are iffy as to availability, even pirate 4x4. The egr kit does not require welding, has brand new calipers, based on the Cadillac El Dorado calipers. I think that by the time you piece everything together, include the welding, you will be close to their price anyway...Mark
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Depends on what calipers you use. I know in the chevy world they hate the cadillac calipers, the park brake stops working shortly after install. The stock front chev calipers which are the other option are easy to get.

Depends what you can get calipers for $$, up here they are pricy but i know many guys down their that seem to get them for next to nothing.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BILTIT
Depends on what calipers you use. I know in the chevy world they hate the cadillac calipers, the park brake stops working shortly after install. The stock front chev calipers which are the other option are easy to get.

Depends what you can get calipers for $$, up here they are pricy but i know many guys down their that seem to get them for next to nothing.
we'll see soon. These are not gm calipers, they are brand new calipers manufactured based on the gm design. As I said a few times, the kit I bought includes the calipers, they will be here in a few hours...Mark
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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Other option is hydro-boost.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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Dana 60 parts are mostly interchangeable, so no problem there. I think if I changed the outers I would go chevy. Calipers are cheaper and I like the slides better. For the rear you can get caliper brackets from Ruff Stuff for $70. I can get chevy 3/4 ton calipers for $20 at autozone. That's means I have no parking brake but I'll go with a line lock or even a driveline brake. So for $200 plus brake lines I'll have disc brakes. I'm not knocking the egr kit, but I'm getting married in two months so no $900 truck parts for awhile.

Jake
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Stude4x4
I'm getting married in two months so no $900 truck parts for awhile.

Jake

That's not necessarily true if you marry right.

You can marry more money in five minutes that you can work out in two lifetimes.


I have known old dead-beat poor boys who didn't have two cents for anything to up and marry some well-heeled old gal and all of a sudden have all kinds of nice toys to play with and cash to fix them up with.

It's all in not jumping into something one can't afford.
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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Well, 2 of the 3 boxes came today and I have to say that these calipers are impressive and are nothing like a Cadillac. I hope the other parts come in tomorrow...Mark


http://www.flickr.com/photos/63170901@N03/5864664093/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63170901@N03/5864664093/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/63170901@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/63170901@N03/5865217470/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63170901@N03/5865217470/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/63170901@N03/, on Flickr


http://www.flickr.com/photos/63170901@N03/5865217418/http://www.flickr.com/photos/63170901@N03/5865217418/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/63170901@N03/, on Flickr
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 10:43 PM
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Are those coil-springs part of the park-brake ??

Does a cam press the actual pads against the rotor as the park-brake ??

Thanks
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by BearKiller
Are those coil-springs part of the park-brake ??

Does a cam press the actual pads against the rotor as the park-brake ??

Thanks
Yes, I think. but I am not sure if it is a cam or a ratcheting setup. I will get a better look tomorrow when I install them, because the other box arrived and all parts are accounted for. The brackets are powder coated white and everything is very professionally made. It even uses the stock parking brake cable. I am going to do an install thread, so I'll take lots of pics...Mark
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by maybe368
Did you take the modulator/dump valve out of the system?...Mark
No, not yet.
I did remove the combo/proportioning valve though.
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Old Jun 24, 2011 | 01:44 AM
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Question >>> brake line fittings <<<
Does anyone know the size of the brake-line that is between the proportioning-valve and RWAL valve at the rear ??

I have a double-flare kit.

In order to bypass the RWAL and hopefully get some rear brake response, can I just cut off that weird sized fitting, re-route the line, add a new fitting that fits the flexible line, and double-flare ??


When more time allows, I intend to install a proper proportioning valve and all new lines everywhere.


Thanks.
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