ditching the A518 and going to a 47RH
I have decided to break away from the A518 in my 93'. I have debated and talked for a while about upgrading my A518 again..........for the second time. The torque converter I chose really ended up being a flop. It was better than stock, but was only slightly better. My trans temps are ridiculous when I hit any hills or resistance. I can easily see 200, 210, 215 degree temps without hauling or towing!!!. I do have the optional underbed cooler with the fan blowing manually. The aux cooler seems to do very little for me. I have learned quickly that the A518 struggles unless it has been highly modified with good parts.
I have recently located a 47RH that was pulled out of a 94' Ram diesel @ 100,000 miles. The transmission is all stock and was in perfect working order before it was pulled. I plan to purchase it, rebuild it, and install a billet converter. I just think its time to get most of the power to the ground. I should be able to be pulled back in my seat as the OD locks up. Hitting OD on my A518 is pretty slushy and weak. I think the folks on here that have done the 47RH can contest that it is a much better upgrade than throwing a high dollar converter in the A518. I would love to hear some testimonials on people who have done the upgrade (before & after effects).
I have recently located a 47RH that was pulled out of a 94' Ram diesel @ 100,000 miles. The transmission is all stock and was in perfect working order before it was pulled. I plan to purchase it, rebuild it, and install a billet converter. I just think its time to get most of the power to the ground. I should be able to be pulled back in my seat as the OD locks up. Hitting OD on my A518 is pretty slushy and weak. I think the folks on here that have done the 47RH can contest that it is a much better upgrade than throwing a high dollar converter in the A518. I would love to hear some testimonials on people who have done the upgrade (before & after effects).
I can tell what I did and what I would or wouldn't do again.
I purchased a complete 47RH out of a 95. I installed it as is, didn't rebuild it, nothing. Ran it for 14,000 miles till the converter wouldn't hold anymore. Had it rebuilt by a shop in Northern NJ, they screwed it up, 1000 miles later it was back up there because it lost reverse. Lost reverse 2 more times, got frustrated and installed a Goerend 3 disc converter and valvebody, held up for 10,000 miles after that till the front clutch that I had already damaged started to come apart and would start slipping in reverse.
I rebuilt another trans and swapped them, used the same converter and valvebody again. I have around $3000 in parts including the converter, valvebody and billet input shaft.
Unless I didn't have the $$$ to do it right I would never just put one in again.
I don't know how your fabrication skills are, but I don't know if I would slot the trans mount again, maybe at least add a strip of metal to the side where the slots are thinnest, I bent my orginal trans mount plate and caused all kinds of problems, could keep the mount bolts tight. I wound up making a new one after I touched the radiator with the fan by slamming on the brakes for a deer.
I purchased a complete 47RH out of a 95. I installed it as is, didn't rebuild it, nothing. Ran it for 14,000 miles till the converter wouldn't hold anymore. Had it rebuilt by a shop in Northern NJ, they screwed it up, 1000 miles later it was back up there because it lost reverse. Lost reverse 2 more times, got frustrated and installed a Goerend 3 disc converter and valvebody, held up for 10,000 miles after that till the front clutch that I had already damaged started to come apart and would start slipping in reverse.
I rebuilt another trans and swapped them, used the same converter and valvebody again. I have around $3000 in parts including the converter, valvebody and billet input shaft.
Unless I didn't have the $$$ to do it right I would never just put one in again.
I don't know how your fabrication skills are, but I don't know if I would slot the trans mount again, maybe at least add a strip of metal to the side where the slots are thinnest, I bent my orginal trans mount plate and caused all kinds of problems, could keep the mount bolts tight. I wound up making a new one after I touched the radiator with the fan by slamming on the brakes for a deer.
I am in the same situation mike was in. I got a 47rh and did not touch the internals but I did install a valve body and converter. Currently it is sitting on the shop floor waiting for me to get the guts to rebuild it. Not sure if I am going to take the plunge myself or not.
My trans mount I added an 1/2 piece of bar stock to then made the slots longer. It's was good for the 8,000 miles I had it installed.
There was no compaison between the 518 and 47rh.
My trans mount I added an 1/2 piece of bar stock to then made the slots longer. It's was good for the 8,000 miles I had it installed.
There was no compaison between the 518 and 47rh.
I will be starting on the conversion myself in the next month or so. I bought a core and the first place it is going is to the shop. I found a local guy that does these transmission for towing and heavy duty work. Don't put one in without going through it first. You will regret it.
I have decided to break away from the A518 in my 93'. I have debated and talked for a while about upgrading my A518 again..........for the second time. The torque converter I chose really ended up being a flop. It was better than stock, but was only slightly better. My trans temps are ridiculous when I hit any hills or resistance. I can easily see 200, 210, 215 degree temps without hauling or towing!!!. I do have the optional underbed cooler with the fan blowing manually. The aux cooler seems to do very little for me. I have learned quickly that the A518 struggles unless it has been highly modified with good parts.
I have recently located a 47RH that was pulled out of a 94' Ram diesel @ 100,000 miles. The transmission is all stock and was in perfect working order before it was pulled. I plan to purchase it, rebuild it, and install a billet converter. I just think its time to get most of the power to the ground. I should be able to be pulled back in my seat as the OD locks up. Hitting OD on my A518 is pretty slushy and weak. I think the folks on here that have done the 47RH can contest that it is a much better upgrade than throwing a high dollar converter in the A518. I would love to hear some testimonials on people who have done the upgrade (before & after effects).
I have recently located a 47RH that was pulled out of a 94' Ram diesel @ 100,000 miles. The transmission is all stock and was in perfect working order before it was pulled. I plan to purchase it, rebuild it, and install a billet converter. I just think its time to get most of the power to the ground. I should be able to be pulled back in my seat as the OD locks up. Hitting OD on my A518 is pretty slushy and weak. I think the folks on here that have done the 47RH can contest that it is a much better upgrade than throwing a high dollar converter in the A518. I would love to hear some testimonials on people who have done the upgrade (before & after effects).

I've had mine for a year + and will never regret it.
I put $1600+ in parts in clutches, steel planetaries, 800lb OD spring, 5:1 band lever, etc.
I wish I had enough $$$ to get a better TC - used the one that came with the trans - supposedly a 'towing TC' ....Still a single clutch and it slides somewhat if I get in the throttle under 50mph.
When we installed the trans we torched the slots into the frame - VERY CAREFULLY so we didn't get into the cab. Since I have the CC the front driveshaft was originally sticking out of the trans ~ 1" now it is almost flush...I put some grease on the front of the shaft and drove for a week over various roads and checked the grease and the shaft never hit the trans. Actually that shaft should never move forward and back.
I want to get a Goerend VB so I have better control of the L/U but for now I can lock up the TC at a stoplight and get on the throttle - not WOT but 1/2 or better - and the trans shifts into 2nd at just over 30 and locks almost instantly. the shift to 3rd and OD are 'firm' to say the least but not clanking hard. I still don't have the 2 - 3 shift where I want it but at minimal throttle 1 - 2 is ~ 15mph and 2 - 3 is ~ 30+mph.
I found a pressure switch from a ferd A/C - Taurus I believe - it turns on the L/U at 45mph and turns it off at 37mph. I've got the OD on a 47mph pressure switch. I also rigged up a switch and relay where I can have the L/U and OD operate using the pressure switches or manually lock when I want.
I put $1600+ in parts in clutches, steel planetaries, 800lb OD spring, 5:1 band lever, etc.
I wish I had enough $$$ to get a better TC - used the one that came with the trans - supposedly a 'towing TC' ....Still a single clutch and it slides somewhat if I get in the throttle under 50mph.
When we installed the trans we torched the slots into the frame - VERY CAREFULLY so we didn't get into the cab. Since I have the CC the front driveshaft was originally sticking out of the trans ~ 1" now it is almost flush...I put some grease on the front of the shaft and drove for a week over various roads and checked the grease and the shaft never hit the trans. Actually that shaft should never move forward and back.
I want to get a Goerend VB so I have better control of the L/U but for now I can lock up the TC at a stoplight and get on the throttle - not WOT but 1/2 or better - and the trans shifts into 2nd at just over 30 and locks almost instantly. the shift to 3rd and OD are 'firm' to say the least but not clanking hard. I still don't have the 2 - 3 shift where I want it but at minimal throttle 1 - 2 is ~ 15mph and 2 - 3 is ~ 30+mph.
I found a pressure switch from a ferd A/C - Taurus I believe - it turns on the L/U at 45mph and turns it off at 37mph. I've got the OD on a 47mph pressure switch. I also rigged up a switch and relay where I can have the L/U and OD operate using the pressure switches or manually lock when I want.
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I've had mine for a year + and will never regret it.
I put $1600+ in parts in clutches, steel planetaries, 800lb OD spring, 5:1 band lever, etc.
I wish I had enough $$$ to get a better TC - used the one that came with the trans - supposedly a 'towing TC' ....Still a single clutch and it slides somewhat if I get in the throttle under 50mph.
When we installed the trans we torched the slots into the frame - VERY CAREFULLY so we didn't get into the cab. Since I have the CC the front driveshaft was originally sticking out of the trans ~ 1" now it is almost flush...I put some grease on the front of the shaft and drove for a week over various roads and checked the grease and the shaft never hit the trans. Actually that shaft should never move forward and back.
I want to get a Goerend VB so I have better control of the L/U but for now I can lock up the TC at a stoplight and get on the throttle - not WOT but 1/2 or better - and the trans shifts into 2nd at just over 30 and locks almost instantly. the shift to 3rd and OD are 'firm' to say the least but not clanking hard. I still don't have the 2 - 3 shift where I want it but at minimal throttle 1 - 2 is ~ 15mph and 2 - 3 is ~ 30+mph.
I found a pressure switch from a ferd A/C - Taurus I believe - it turns on the L/U at 45mph and turns it off at 37mph. I've got the OD on a 47mph pressure switch. I also rigged up a switch and relay where I can have the L/U and OD operate using the pressure switches or manually lock when I want.
I put $1600+ in parts in clutches, steel planetaries, 800lb OD spring, 5:1 band lever, etc.
I wish I had enough $$$ to get a better TC - used the one that came with the trans - supposedly a 'towing TC' ....Still a single clutch and it slides somewhat if I get in the throttle under 50mph.
When we installed the trans we torched the slots into the frame - VERY CAREFULLY so we didn't get into the cab. Since I have the CC the front driveshaft was originally sticking out of the trans ~ 1" now it is almost flush...I put some grease on the front of the shaft and drove for a week over various roads and checked the grease and the shaft never hit the trans. Actually that shaft should never move forward and back.
I want to get a Goerend VB so I have better control of the L/U but for now I can lock up the TC at a stoplight and get on the throttle - not WOT but 1/2 or better - and the trans shifts into 2nd at just over 30 and locks almost instantly. the shift to 3rd and OD are 'firm' to say the least but not clanking hard. I still don't have the 2 - 3 shift where I want it but at minimal throttle 1 - 2 is ~ 15mph and 2 - 3 is ~ 30+mph.
I found a pressure switch from a ferd A/C - Taurus I believe - it turns on the L/U at 45mph and turns it off at 37mph. I've got the OD on a 47mph pressure switch. I also rigged up a switch and relay where I can have the L/U and OD operate using the pressure switches or manually lock when I want.
Before and After comparisions
Does anyone have some good before and after performance comparisons with swapping from a A518 to a 47RH trans?
Driving feel, fuel mileage, towing, trans temps, etc
Driving feel, fuel mileage, towing, trans temps, etc
I went from a 727 to a 47rh and the most I got out of it was the overdrive. I wouldn't hesitate to build up a 518 with good parts if you just plan on towing with it. My 727 held 514 at the wheels and was abused quite often and all it had was good clutches, a trans-go, and a Goerend 1600 stall converter.
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i would not recommend using a used torque converter with a fresh transmission. im sure people have done it 1000 times but theres always dirty contaminated fluid in a used converter and you dont want that to be the 1st thing new clutches and whatnot are exposed to.
I went from a 727 to a 47rh and the most I got out of it was the overdrive. I wouldn't hesitate to build up a 518 with good parts if you just plan on towing with it. My 727 held 514 at the wheels and was abused quite often and all it had was good clutches, a trans-go, and a Goerend 1600 stall converter.






