A Couple of quick questions
#1
A Couple of quick questions
Ok i've been reading some and getting confused... I read an artical on intsalling a 2nd gen lift pump. Whats the purpose of this. Anything special need to be done or is it just a bolt on and go? Also i've thought about getting the 3200 gov. spring.. is it worth it? its a stock motor just turned the pump up half of what the artical on the internet said. ( turned the low manifold 1 turn instead of 2 and the full power adjustment 1 instead of 2.) Also i've read about modding a pin?? is there a tech artical on that?? We aren't running a Pyro. Also i've read where you can hook up a tach, just wondering if you need one for a diesel or if one like an autometer tach for gassers would work?? I know the diesel will only spin 3000 rpms not 8-10k We'd like to do inexpesive mods and we are currently doing a transplant into a crewcab and painted it so money is alittle tight. Thanks DF
#2
Registered User
Welcome.
Stroll through the stickys at the top to find out more about what you seek.
Especially the fuel screw stuff so it doesn't run off on you.
Fill out your Sig in User CP so we know what you got.
The P-pump ain't a bolt on. Thats all I know.
The 3200 spring is cheap and easy and makes your truck act totally different.
Get the pyro ASAP so your upgrades don't toast your project.
The crew cab project is a bad idea. As a welcoming gesture, I'll help you out and take that burden off your hands...
Stroll through the stickys at the top to find out more about what you seek.
Especially the fuel screw stuff so it doesn't run off on you.
Fill out your Sig in User CP so we know what you got.
The P-pump ain't a bolt on. Thats all I know.
The 3200 spring is cheap and easy and makes your truck act totally different.
Get the pyro ASAP so your upgrades don't toast your project.
The crew cab project is a bad idea. As a welcoming gesture, I'll help you out and take that burden off your hands...
#3
Ok i updated my sig i think....Hows the 3200 spring make it act different? more power? also I can get a gen 2 turbo off a 98 cummins that needs bearings is that a good idea also?? What does the P pump do? You say the crew cab is a bad idea as in Cool or shouldn't be done ?? Ok so maybe it was more than a couple of questions...i've been reading all day and my heads spinning...
#5
Registered User
There is a piston-style pump available for the 1st gens that's similar to the second gen lift pump, but it's not the same. The 2nd gen pump operates at a much higher pressure, which you don't need. I believe the stock diaphragm style pump on your 1st gen is sufficient until you have increased your engine's power quite a bit.
#6
Alright so i should opt out of the piston pump. But the 3200 spring is a cheap and easy mod. I read the article on modding the power pin i seen a side view of the mod but waht about a pic of where they cut a front view so i know exactly how it looks. will the 2nd gen turbo be a good idea also? what other cheap mods can a person do. Also when you bump the timing does it affect Egts (assuming so and how much) how do you know when to stop advancing?
#7
Registered User
There is a lot to be gained by simply adjusting the pump. Many of my customers are happy to leave it at that. I haven't tried the governor spring mod, but I think it would be worthwhile.
As far as timing goes, I use a light, and set them all to 10 degrees. Stock they are anywhere between 4 and 8.
As far as timing goes, I use a light, and set them all to 10 degrees. Stock they are anywhere between 4 and 8.
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#8
Registered User
Ok i've been reading some and getting confused... I read an artical on intsalling a 2nd gen lift pump. Whats the purpose of this. Anything special need to be done or is it just a bolt on and go?
As has been said, there is a piston-style lift pump that looks like the 2nd gen unit, but it's designed to operate at the pressure our VE injection pumps can handle. It's laid out pretty clearly in the sticky. Bottom line is that with stock injectors and a tweeked pump, the diaphram lift pump (stock unit) is reasonably adequate. Your $ is better spent in plumbing a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the injection pump so you know what exactly your injection pump is getting.
Also i've thought about getting the 3200 gov. spring.. is it worth it?
Yes
its a stock motor just turned the pump up half of what the artical on the internet said. ( turned the low manifold 1 turn instead of 2 and the full power adjustment 1 instead of 2.) Also i've read about modding a pin?? is there a tech artical on that??
We aren't running a Pyro.
Time to start
Also i've read where you can hook up a tach, just wondering if you need one for a diesel or if one like an autometer tach for gassers would work?? I know the diesel will only spin 3000 rpms not 8-10k We'd like to do inexpesive mods and we are currently doing a transplant into a crewcab and painted it so money is alittle tight. Thanks DF
As has been said, there is a piston-style lift pump that looks like the 2nd gen unit, but it's designed to operate at the pressure our VE injection pumps can handle. It's laid out pretty clearly in the sticky. Bottom line is that with stock injectors and a tweeked pump, the diaphram lift pump (stock unit) is reasonably adequate. Your $ is better spent in plumbing a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the injection pump so you know what exactly your injection pump is getting.
Also i've thought about getting the 3200 gov. spring.. is it worth it?
Yes
its a stock motor just turned the pump up half of what the artical on the internet said. ( turned the low manifold 1 turn instead of 2 and the full power adjustment 1 instead of 2.) Also i've read about modding a pin?? is there a tech artical on that??
We aren't running a Pyro.
Time to start
Also i've read where you can hook up a tach, just wondering if you need one for a diesel or if one like an autometer tach for gassers would work?? I know the diesel will only spin 3000 rpms not 8-10k We'd like to do inexpesive mods and we are currently doing a transplant into a crewcab and painted it so money is alittle tight. Thanks DF
#9
There is a lot to be gained by simply adjusting the pump. Many of my customers are happy to leave it at that. I haven't tried the governor spring mod, but I think it would be worthwhile.
As far as timing goes, I use a light, and set them all to 10 degrees. Stock they are anywhere between 4 and 8.
As far as timing goes, I use a light, and set them all to 10 degrees. Stock they are anywhere between 4 and 8.
#10
Also will a newer 12v head bolt on and work? i know the injector ports are differnt sizes but i'd like to get another head and do some port work to it and the newer 12vs will be easier to find i'm guessing.
#11
the heads are interchangeable from 91.5-98.4
They can also go on an earlier truck but you also have to have 'little' injectors.
91.5-93 wont work well on 94-98.4 due to the fact some didn't come milled out for the overflow valve.
They can also go on an earlier truck but you also have to have 'little' injectors.
91.5-93 wont work well on 94-98.4 due to the fact some didn't come milled out for the overflow valve.
#12
Registered User
You use an ordinary inductive timing light, but you must attach it to a diesel pulse adapter. It's available from Snap On for a few hundred dollars. Not cost effective for most people.
#13
Registered User
or to bump the timing there is a small notch on the gear case that the injector pump bolts to and you can use that as a reference to how far you bump the timing of the pump, so you can measure to that line from the case to the line on the pump and measure and 1/8 or what ever it may be ,and the pump should move toward the head of the motor not toward the fender after bolts are lossened and such.
#15