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Compound, Twins, or Huge Single???

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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Compound, Twins, or Huge Single???

Hello Cummins enthusiast

Ok, so I've been searching for a 1993 W350 regular cab (dually) to purchase and haven't had luck thus far. Although I haven't actually found the truck, I would like some guidance on what performance parts I need to purchase and the estimated cost for a project like this.

So my main goal is to have a DAILY DRIVEABLE truck with between 650-750 hp and 760-900 lb ft torque, moderately quick spooling abilities, along with the reliablility of a stock 3rd gen I hear that compound turbo's are pretty awsome, however what would the pro/cons be of getting a compound set up compared to a bigger single with large injectors or a twin turbo set up? Also, what internal engine modifications would be needed to make this truck long lasting with the high power additions?

I'm not looking to smoke out people or race every Duramax and Powerstroke in my community, just a teenager looking for some guidance in an area where more experianced enthusiast know what to do from experiance! It will be expensive, but I've got a reasonable amount to put into a project like this. I'll be using the truck to transport my lawn equipment in between jobs and daily driving when I'm not driving my M3, so thanks for the help guys.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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I smell troll.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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you better go P-pump if you want it to be a daily reliable 650-750hp truck.

To get there with VE pump, would be a lot of money and you would need a 12mm h&r which would not be a good idea for a daily driver.

And i would go with compound turbos to keep er' cool and quick spoolin
(Most people call compound turbos, twin turbos, but really true twins would be two turbos the same size, but the way they do it is with a small and a big turbo, making it compound turbos)
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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Whats a troll? Right now to pull that off you would need a p-pump and compounds or triples.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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They've got some interesting 1st gen buildups on different budgets in diesel power mag. You might wanna take a glance at that just for starters. There are so many different setups you could run.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 92smokin blacky
you better go P-pump if you want it to be a daily reliable 650-750hp truck.

To get there with VE pump, would be a lot of money and you would need a 12mm h&r which would not be a good idea for a daily driver.

And i would go with compound turbos to keep er' cool and quick spoolin
(Most people call compound turbos, twin turbos, but really true twins would be two turbos the same size, but the way they do it is with a small and a big turbo, making it compound turbos)
A friend of mine has been telling me that a P-Pump is better suited for the compatability of high performance add ons. I know compounds spool quicker than regular twins because the smaller turbo drives or powers the bigger one when more fuel is released, but what actual gains over a single turbo or regular twin turbo set up would you see? Thanks for your input!`

Originally Posted by 14racing
They've got some interesting 1st gen buildups on different budgets in diesel power mag. You might wanna take a glance at that just for starters. There are so many different setups you could run.
I'll check it out buddy, thanks!

Originally Posted by The_Head
I smell troll.
Bro, you do not know anything about me so what gives?
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Head
I smell troll.
lol. I think half of why your comment is so funny is most people on this forum don't even know what that is.

As for the OP. Find a truck and buy it first, then we can probably help you more.

And for the hp you're looking to make, you basically will never make it on one of our old trucks unless you swap to the second gen ppump like mentioned. If that's the plan then it would just be cheaper to find and buy a second gen (94-98) dodge diesel and work/mod that.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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Sorry, what is troll?
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by schamran
Sorry, what is troll?
It's pretty much someone that post's just to cause controversy. Like a fellow that came on a year ago just to tell everyone that he was hauling about 1988 prototype CTD's to the crusher and he wouldn't sell anyparts off it. A EDIT stirrer to say the least.

However, I'm not quite seeing how this applies here? Maybe someone knows something I don't know.

As for the OP, I think you wouldn't be able to drive the 600-700hp truck enough to appreciate that power. I'm sure a 400hp set up could scare you. Not for top speed like you could get with your car, but just sheer torque. And it would have to be a 14mm H&R head you'd need to see those power levels, an extreme understanding of what your doing, patience, and money. The top 1st gen dogs are in the low to mid 600hp range on fuel only I believe still. And yes, twins (or compounds, or sequentials, or series, or sequentially compounded, however you refer to them) would be a must. Maybe some liquid turbo (no2), fire ringed heads and block, head studs, valve springs, cam, ported intake, etc etc etc. Not to mention the tranny to put that power to the ground.

Last edited by BC847; Jan 26, 2010 at 11:31 AM. Reason: Language
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ISPOOL2
Hello Cummins enthusiast

Ok, so I've been searching for a 1993 W350 regular cab (dually) to purchase and haven't had luck thus far. Although I haven't actually found the truck, I would like some guidance on what performance parts I need to purchase and the estimated cost for a project like this.

So my main goal is to have a DAILY DRIVEABLE truck with between 650-750 hp and 760-900 lb ft torque, moderately quick spooling abilities, along with the reliablility of a stock 3rd gen I hear that compound turbo's are pretty awsome, however what would the pro/cons be of getting a compound set up compared to a bigger single with large injectors or a twin turbo set up? Also, what internal engine modifications would be needed to make this truck long lasting with the high power additions?

I'm not looking to smoke out people or race every Duramax and Powerstroke in my community, just a teenager looking for some guidance in an area where more experianced enthusiast know what to do from experiance! It will be expensive, but I've got a reasonable amount to put into a project like this. I'll be using the truck to transport my lawn equipment in between jobs and daily driving when I'm not driving my M3, so thanks for the help guys.
Ditch the 1st Gen and go straight to a 2nd Gen 12 Valve if that is the power your after, while still being reliable. While 700rwhp is certainly doable with the VE, it will not be reliable. If you like the 1st Gen body style, buy one, and swap a 2nd Gen 12 Valve in.

My brother daily drove his '97 with 716rwhp and over 1000ft/lb tq while still getting 19-20mpg with 4.10 gears. He only had a single turbo, so I'm sure with twins your goal will be much easier to attain.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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Piece of cake. Compounds and a few easy mods. The torque number will be much higher though.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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p-pump, p-pump, p-pump. a friend of mine has a '94 12v p-pump. ran stock injectors, stock delivery valves, no fuel plate and some mild AFC tuning on a superflow eddy-current (sp?) dyno over the weekend. made 381hp/1000ft lbs. what's that tell you for a low budget/high powered p-pump so far? the chart shows a comparison between the superflow and dyno jet numbers.

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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DD, 700HP, Towing and reliability don't go together.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by RSWORDS
DD, 700HP, Towing and reliability don't go together.
It can be done. Mine is p-pumped, auto, daily driver. I can tow(yes, i have to be careful), drag race, or make long trips without stirring up the smoke ****'s. There is a bit of trial and error but it can be done. That was at 880hp. At 700 it was a ***** cat and got over 20mpg hwy. No valet, no water, no nitrous, no egt issues except you can't mash the pedal when towing.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Why does torque get lower at the beginning of the band? Is that a period of time between when the first turbo is done lighting and the second one hasn't lit yet?
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