Anyone use a lift kit other than skyjackers? What I have learned so far is this (schooling myself on suspension systems, thanks to the search feature):

1. go only as high as needed to clear front tires from rubbing
2. a 4" lift will not require you to extend brake lines or lengthen drivelines
3. it is a good idea to get a drop down pittman when installing the lift
4. maybe an adjustable drag link
5. use upgraded leaf springs to give you height, rather than blocks

So far, based on opinions given here, this is what I have come up with. Doesn't skyjacker use blocks in their kits(regarding #5)? Anyway, I am still trying to gather enough info before purchase, and would like to know what else is out there and would best fit my needs. My truck is a daily driver, with plans on going up to the mountains annually in the fall to deer/elk hunt.

 

well i do have a skyjacker 2nd one actualy and no they do offer kits without blocks. I did install a fabteck on a ifs ford and it went in ok guy seems to like it. deff a drop pitman arm, I would stay away from blocks or coil spacers but some will tell you difrent i gues its all up to what you want out of your truck,

A pavement princess or a work /off road truck.

 

I think you will need to address the brake line and driveshaft at that height. The slip joint will still go in, but there won't be enough spline engaged to make it strong/reliable. The brake line is an easy fix - just relocate the fitting where it mounts on the crossmember, but I would definitely recommend a new front drive shaft.

 

Ace, I wouldn't even know where to look for a new, longer shaft. Tell me, does the aftermarket over beefier shafts for the front and rear? if so, where do I go to? I, like probably so many on here, would like to stick to parts made for our trucks and not mickey mouse rigging. Did you piece your system, or buy as a kit?

 

Skyjacker is the best off the shelf bang for your buck suspension system for our trucks. They make up to 6" rear springs so that totally negates the use of blocks.

1. Go as high as you want, it's always nice to add a little buffer zone incase you decide to go with wider or larger tires later, rather then having to hack apart your fender at a later date. Remember to check for rubbing with moderate articulation.

2. 6" lift can run stock front/rear drivelines fine with decent angles but I'd suggest getting longer brake lines just to reduce tension, I have an 8" with stock drivelines.

3. Correct
4. Correct
5. Bingo!

If you run a lift kit with oversized tires get a dual steering stabilizer kit from skyjacker, its an easy 10 minute install and a decent price ( $115 ) to your door. I've put these on every truck I've ever owned and never looked back.

 

Contact your local 4x4 shop, front/rear with rebalanced would probably run you $180-250 from what I've seen.

 

If you want big tires, 4" lift and cut the fenders. Friend of mine has 44" tires and a 4" lift on his Chevy, just cut the fenders and made a flat bed in the rear. I'm only going with a 4" lift and trimming the fenders some, probably will only run 40" tires.

 

I had a shaft made at a shop like Stihl said. We re-used the CV and added a 1350 u-joint and new yoke for the Dana. I woudn't trust that front joint to hold the torque from a modded Cummins if it ever got traction under load. It is only a 7260 joint. But I guess if you stretch it out enough to reach a 6" lift the spline would probably strip first.

 

Mattster and Sthil- Awhile back when I started my questions on lifting my rig I mentioned that I have a set of tires(new) sitting on my garage floor. The rims are in very good shape, and look really nice. The previous owner gave me the extra rims when I purchased the truck. I went ahead and had them installed when I got the new tires, which are Michelin all terrain 33x12.50 R16.5LT's. I took them off because everytime I came up on a steep driveway entry, the tires would rub the wheelwells. I can't even imagine what would happen to the truck/tires if I was in the mountains chasin' a herd of elk and come across a deep ruts/rocks at around 40+ mph. I don't plan on buying anything larger than those, so wouldn't a 4" seem adequate for my needs? Seems like I read about too much vibration and other problems on here about people going 6" and up with suspension lifts. Let me know your thoughts. Anyway, during your reply, can either of you point me as to where I should order the kit and its accessories? Straight to skyjacker, or summit, or somewhere else? BTW, I installed sway control shocks up front long time ago(duals) for the reason of the steering going out of control everytime I hit potholes when I commute to work. Along with the Borgeson shaft, they really helped.

 

I would pay close attention to the front driveshaft angle and spline engagement when the front suspension is at full droop. With my truck (2.5" skyjacker) on the hoist, the u joint at the front pinion will bind due to the driveline angle. This would only be a concern if you think your front tires would leave the ground while you have your right foot on the floor board. Just a thought....damage control if you will.

 

Personally, 4" lift with 33" is a bit much.. You could get away with the 2.5 lift and you should be more than fine.. Then you don't have to worry about anything, all the angles will be good.. But I would get rid of the rear blocks and get skyjacker's 6" springs and it would help.. Then if you wanted a little more in the back you could make a 2" block... Just my 2 cents worth!!

What kind of offset do your rims have, I can't believe you have serious rubbing issues with a 33" tire unless your tires stick out like a ****??

 

DNR- not able to check that right now, but like I said, when I make a left or right turn into a driveway that is somewhat steep, or decending off of a driveway that has a steep enough grade. When applying the brakes this causes a tip down of the front and if the wheels are turned right or left this will cause rubbing at the frontal portion of the wheel well. I know..it is frustrating. They are not big tires, especially when compared to what some are running on this site. I can't believe there is nothing else I could do to give me a little more clearance to miss those wheelwells other than a $1000.00+ skyjacker kit. Who knows? Does it sound like my front shocks may be going?

 

Well, for like 400 bucks you can get new 2.5" springs up front with some new shocks and don't even mess with the rear.. It would sit pretty level then I would think... Sounds like you have pretty offset wheels to me, or else your stock springs are saggging real bad...

 

If you wanted to be on the cheap side do an add-a-leaf kit. You will gain about an inch, but make sure your dentures are in good and snug 'cuz they'll get bounced out.

 

Cut the fender and save a grand? Or be a cool cat and ride sky high Looks like you already have a few pretty pennies into your truck so personally I would just jack it up .. you won't regret it trust me