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A/C Low-side Pressure Higher Than High-side ???

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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:25 PM
  #46  
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The chattering gauge was probably caused from a broken reed valve in the compressor.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:39 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Jim Lane
The chattering gauge was probably caused from a broken reed valve in the compressor.
Well that and the clutch bearing was also bad so knowing that im keeping this truck for a while i went ahead and replaced all of that. But then it ended up doing the same thing as b4 all the parts were replaced.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:42 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by fazmig
Well that and the clutch bearing was also bad so knowing that im keeping this truck for a while i went ahead and replaced all of that. But then it ended up doing the same thing as b4 all the parts were replaced.
Did you replace the condenser and evaporator? Is the fan blowing good volume? When you change from ac to max ac to def, ETC., does it work right?...Mark
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by maybe368
Did you replace the condenser and evaporator? Is the fan blowing good volume? When you change from ac to max ac to def, ETC., does it work right?...Mark
Condenser was changed cuz of a tiny leak, evaporator wasnt, fan is blowing good volume and i really havnt switched it between max ac and regular ac at night or early morning when it does work for me to notice a difference.
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by fazmig
Condenser was changed cuz of a tiny leak, evaporator wasnt, fan is blowing good volume and i really havnt switched it between max ac and regular ac at night or early morning when it does work for me to notice a difference.
The reason I asked about the change was to determine if the doors were opening and closing correctly. Did it always have this problem? Was the last charge done correctly, if you know? I am just trying to figure out how it could be doing the same thing when everything was replaced, more or less. The only other thing that I can think of is possibly the cycling switch, see https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=probe...Mark
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 06:05 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by maybe368
The reason I asked about the change was to determine if the doors were opening and closing correctly. Did it always have this problem? Was the last charge done correctly, if you know? I am just trying to figure out how it could be doing the same thing when everything was replaced, more or less. The only other thing that I can think of is possibly the cycling switch, see https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=probe...Mark
I thought u meant a change in temperature between max ac and ac....and yes sir, when cycled between those two positions the doors do close as seen thru the mesh on the ac box.
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:09 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by fazmig
Hey buddys, on the same note, i forgot to say that b4 i replaced all the components of the ac system the truck was doing the same thing. It would only cool in the mornings and evenings and not during the hot day. The reason i replaced the compressor was because the gauges were inconsistent, bouncing up and down as it had bad compression. That is the reason i replaced it along with everything else, but it did do the same thing b4 the parts being replaced.
Also, the cycling switch that has the probe that goes into the hose is not wrapped in anything.
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:14 PM
  #53  
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If you are talking about the probe that is under the hood, I used some thermal transfer compound that is used between the CPU and cooler on a PC.
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:14 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by fazmig
Also, the cycling switch that has the probe that goes into the hose is not wrapped in anything.
Mine is not either. Do you remember approx how much oil you put into the compressor?...Mark
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 02:55 PM
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Spoke to the "mechanic" and he said he put two oz. of ester oil into the system. Nothing b4 it was installed which i thought he did...
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Old Jun 3, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by fazmig
Spoke to the "mechanic" and he said he put two oz. of ester oil into the system. Nothing b4 it was installed which i thought he did...
This morning it was aboht 75 degrees and there was a slight drizzle and the ac cooled down to about 36 degrees. Checked the line that was the low pressure fitting and it began to frost.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 10:14 AM
  #57  
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Check your pressures again, both low and high with the system running. If the low pressure line is frosting, the evaporator may be frosting as well. At that point the compressor should cycle off.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 12:30 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by fazmig
This morning it was aboht 75 degrees and there was a slight drizzle and the ac cooled down to about 36 degrees. Checked the line that was the low pressure fitting and it began to frost.
40 degrees drop is pretty good. What does it blow when it is not working right?...Mark
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 02:40 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by maybe368
40 degrees drop is pretty good. What does it blow when it is not working right?...Mark
On a Hot day blows to 64 to 68 degrees vent temp.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by fazmig
On a Hot day blows to 64 to 68 degrees vent temp.
They say that 40 degrees below ambient is about the best you are going to get, with ambient reading taken a couple of inches in front of the evaporator. It doesn't sound like you are too far off. The other day, in was around 106 degrees, but the temp right in front of the evaporator was 99-100 and I was getting 58 at about 2000 rpm. I compared my temp readings from the Cummins to the brand new TDI and they were exactly the same. The only difference is that the TDI has a lot more air volume...Mark
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