Gel coat holds paint as good as the steel body. Think about all the old Corvettes that have better paint than our trucks. I have some painted fiberglass on one of my motorcycles it didn't blow off at 130 MPH.

If you want to make the process faster and easier for the body guy You can remove the emblems and door handles tool box, bed rail covers, doorsill plates, hood ram. Pretty much anything that you want paint under. I would remove the trim but that can get sort of tricky because of the plastic clips.

 

Big you prep the fiberglass just like metal. If any of the old paint is flaking remove all the paint. Prime and bondo as needed. Wet sand and throw your color at it.

My running boards are fiber glass also. Here is a pic of them in primer. These boards had hair line cracks in the paint. I removed all of the old paint. I didn't have to do any bondo work.



Here is a pic after being buffed out.

 

Phillip, those mounting on your 1st Gen? Where did you find those? Slick lookin'. No problem holding body weight on those steps?

 

Those are after market fiber glass steps. The only trucks I have ever seen them on were centurion conversion trucks. It took me 5 years to find a set of them used. I had to make a center support for the step part. I could see where it had a support under the step. I did not get them with the boards. So I made a set up.

Here is what I made.



Here is a pic of it installed.





It supports my 200 lbs with no problem. Here is the installed pic.





Those steps came with a black rubber pad in the step area. You couldn't see the steps at night. So that would have lead into a scraped shin. So I put the alumin on to see the steps better at night.

 

looks really nice.

 

I agree. Slick, clean, and definitely had some thought put into the design

 

That's why I looked so long for a set. They blend into the flat bed real good. Before I found these I had a set of Stull Stainless tube running boards I was going to install. So those found another home real fast.

 

Ask the shop what they are going to do and how.

1. Is the truck going down to bare metal?

This is a big question. There are problems under your stock paint. It has poor primer and very thin. Many people that have painted their trucks have found small spots of rust under what looks like good paint.

2. Are they using a epoxy primer over bare metal?

If they are not that can lead to problems later on. Regular primer is porous. If you get a chip or crack that goes to primer it will start to rust.

3. What brand of paint. What type of paint, enamel, lacquer, water base?

4. How many coats?

If a shop can not or will not answer those question in advance. Walk away.

 

Thanks, Phillip, for getting back to my inquiry. This shop I'm going to is an owner/operator, and I've known him for years as his kids and mine went to school together elementary on thru high school. I read back ground on this guy, which is in the introduction of his web page. Apparently back in the days of VICA, he competed nationwide against other high school kids involved in VICA for automotive body work and paint and won. He's got a passion for life and his work. Heck, he gets in sometimes at 4am to work cause he is so high energy.

About a month ago I ran into him at the local Home Dee Pot and he said he had a customer come back to him requesting a repaint on a door(or hood, can't remember)that had faded from years of being in the sun. So, this is normal, UV, everyday fade that happens to all cars over time, and he repainted it at no cost to the customer, because he guarantees his work. I don't believe that is the norm, but he knew my dodge, and says he knows exactly what to do to it. He told me if ever, the truck dis colored over time, he'd repaint it no questions asked.
Phillip, I will ask him your questions, though. Especially about taking it down to bare metal. As far as your #3 and #4 comments, what is best?

 

3. DuPont or PPG are the brands I have delt with. The main thing is he has experience with the brand he is shooting. You find lesser quality shops will use the cheaper brands of paints. That's why I would ask. If he is shooting MAB or some off brand. I would be worried.

4. The number of coats is determined by what paint type is used. Enamel with no buffing would be three coats. Lacquer with buffing around 6 coats. You will sand and buff about 3 coats off. Water base I have no experience with it. Imron unbuffed 3 coats. If your sanding and buffing 6 coats. If he is clear coating. They normal do a couple of coats of base. Then 3 clear coats.

Ask if the door jambs and inner door panels are included. It looks bad when you open the door on a fresh paint job and see old paint inside the jamb areas.

 

Phillip, all good advice! Thanks! I know it's late, but if you think of anything else to add, please don't hesitate to re post in the next few days, weeks, whenever. I still have time before all this happens. Hopefully I'll have extra $$ to add one of those Fancy Bumpers that don't budge. Buck stop I think they're called