Broken E-Brake Cable
Broken E-Brake Cable
I was under the truck a couple weeks ago adjusting my parking brake and noticed when I pulled off the rubber stopper in the adjustment window there was diff. fluid. So off I went to the parts store to get seals and figured I might as well do the bearings as well. Tore into the job tonight and of course there is far more going on. The axle stub is grooved so I have to do the speedy sleeve fix. I also realized the parking brake cable is broken in the drum assembly. On top of all that the whole assembly is covered in diff. fluid meaning I have to replace the pads (one of my least favorite jobs).
The questions are;
Where do I find a new brake cable assembly?
Is there any tricks I should be aware of with cable replacement?
I noticed in the stickies part numbers for the handy brake tools, does anyone have the numbers for these at NAPA or related brick and morter stores?
With this news I struggled with doing the disc conversion but $ is too tight so I have to get in there and fix as is...
Any thoughts?
The questions are;
Where do I find a new brake cable assembly?
Is there any tricks I should be aware of with cable replacement?
I noticed in the stickies part numbers for the handy brake tools, does anyone have the numbers for these at NAPA or related brick and morter stores?
With this news I struggled with doing the disc conversion but $ is too tight so I have to get in there and fix as is...
Any thoughts?
Replacement Park-Brake cables are easily obtainable at any parts-store.
Prices range anywhere from about $20 to $35.
Once you get the drum off, replacement is pretty straightforward, plumb easy if you have done a few, with the only really dreaded part of the process being the necessity of pulling the axle, drum, bearings, etc., just to do an otherwise ten-minute fix.
The Golden Rule of park-brakes = use it or lose it; the cables will last almost forever, so long as the brakes are set and released at least once daily.
But, neglect to use the park-brakes, or leave a truck un-used for a week at a time, and the cables will soon sieze to the housings, thus ruining them.
And, if a truck isn't being driven for a few weeks, at least every second day release/apply/release/apply the park-brake, work the foot-brake a few times, and work the clutch a few times; this will prevent the seals from sticking in their bores and also keep the cables from corroding.
Prices range anywhere from about $20 to $35.
Once you get the drum off, replacement is pretty straightforward, plumb easy if you have done a few, with the only really dreaded part of the process being the necessity of pulling the axle, drum, bearings, etc., just to do an otherwise ten-minute fix.
The Golden Rule of park-brakes = use it or lose it; the cables will last almost forever, so long as the brakes are set and released at least once daily.
But, neglect to use the park-brakes, or leave a truck un-used for a week at a time, and the cables will soon sieze to the housings, thus ruining them.
And, if a truck isn't being driven for a few weeks, at least every second day release/apply/release/apply the park-brake, work the foot-brake a few times, and work the clutch a few times; this will prevent the seals from sticking in their bores and also keep the cables from corroding.
Thanks for the help. I use my parking brake every time as I have learned my lesson long ago on other vehicles. I am headed to the parts store right now.
Any ideas on NAPA or O'Reilly hand tools to make the job a little easier on the brakes?
Any ideas on NAPA or O'Reilly hand tools to make the job a little easier on the brakes?
Take an old, rather wide-bladed, straight screw-driver (or chisel or otherwise flat piece of steel) and grind a deep "V" in the tip.
You can use this "V" to push in on those hateful little coiled retainer-springs while hooking/un-hooking them.
A large generic cheapo set of brake pliers are a big help with the springs.
Remember to put a big dab of Kendall L427 Super-Blu extreme pressure grease on the bearing areas between the shoes and backing-plate.
Also, remember to dis-assemble, motor-wire-brush, and coat with anti-sieze the threads on the star-wheel adjusters.
Also, if necessary, sharpen the teeth of the star-wheel with a triangular file.
Check with your local Dodge Dealer on the price of the cables.
I got mine for not much more than jobber parts (about $5/each) AND the Dodge ones have a better lining that won't cause them to seize like jobber ones do.
I will not use jobber cable unless they're discontinued from (insert make here) Dealer.
I got mine for not much more than jobber parts (about $5/each) AND the Dodge ones have a better lining that won't cause them to seize like jobber ones do.
I will not use jobber cable unless they're discontinued from (insert make here) Dealer.
Well I purchased the 3-3.006 Speedy Sleeve without giving any thought. I am going about assembly tonight and found that the sleeve is too big. My truck is a SRW, any thoughts on what the proper size is?
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