I'm having a time figuring out what the heck is going on.

MY brake pedal is what I call lazy. If you have to keep your foot on the pedal for very long then when you let your foot off the pedal completely it doesn't come all the way back up to where it should be. This causes the brake lights to stay on. Then the electric brakes are also engaged! I have the brake light button under the dash pushed forward as far as it will go to compensate still, the same problem. What gives with this? Anyone else ever have this problem?

 

I just replaced my master cyl and because it was bypassing. I notinced my booster was leaking so i replaced it. I have the same problem your having but not to that extent. i still have a bypassing problem that is caused by the RWABS valve. I haven't replaced it yet due to caost and going moose hunting so my funds are tight. But I suspect that if the valve isn't operating properly with fluid flowing one way that I suspect its also having a porblem returning. Also remove your master cyl and check the push rod adjustment coming out of the brake booster. Maybe somhow it has changed. I set mine using slow drying paint. You could use grease. Put a dab on the end of the push rod and reinstall the master and see if it is making contact. If not unthread it (counter clockwise) 1 turn and try again. keep doing this untill the you just have it make contact. If you go to far the master cyl pistons wont be able to return causing the brakes to stay on. Hope this helps.
To check for a bypassing problem, hammer the brake a few times and then gently apply slight pressure (as if you were sitting at a stop in gear) Not to much though and just hold it. If the pedal slowly travel's to the floor or 3/4 of the way with just slight pressure than the master or the RWABS valve is bypassing. Having your brake light button pushed all the way forward could be holding the brakes on to.
I dont know if your truck has RWABS so some of this may no apply.

Hope some of this helps.

 

Hey Tron and TJE, If you onplug the real wheel antilok device it shuld go to default and not wark at all,,, (act like no rawl) if that solves the issue,,, rawl definately bad

 

I haven't had a chance to check out what Tron suggested yet. Am I understanding you Pred? The rwal could be the problem in the brake pedal not coming back up where it should be?

I forgot to say that I have replaced both the master cyl. and the booster.

Thanks, Tony

 

Tje check the push rod adjustment. Mine was not set right from the rebuild factory And if they have it set out to far than its blocking the ports internally in the master, not allowing the brake fluid to flow back into the resivoir.
Thanks Pred but I dont think unplugging it will help. Its not the electrical portion of the valve that is bad. Its the hydrollic portion that is leaking internally.