Happy 4th of July all!!!

I just finished installing a new master/booster on my 93. I bench bleed the master, then I finished up making the lines, which run for the metering valve (near the master) to the distribution block on the frame. I topped off the master, and used my one-man bleeding tool (a bug sprayer pressure pump, attached to the master, with an aluminum cover, with an air fitting to connect the bug pump).

I cracked the bleeder screw on the RWAL device (driver side of frame), and bleed the system there - no problem. I then went to the rear passenger side bleeder screw, and got nothing - no fluid out of the bleeder screw? I checked all my lines, no leeks, and the new lines from the metering valve to the distribution block on frame, are routed correctly.

I am thinking that my Speed bleeder screws might be stuck (bad). However; they are only 2 years old! Or; the metering valve is the culprit? Any suggestions here?

 

http://phoenixsystem.com/company/phoenix_systems.htm

 

Did you try removing the screw to see if anything is inside it ?

 

X2, especially if it's 4x4 and you hit the mud. could be clogged up.

 

A mighty X2 on that, also like others have said, check for a plugged bleeder, esp. if there was no rubber cap over the end of it. I see this all the time at work, usually have to take the bleeder out and either hit it with some compressed air or jiggle a small wire thru the orifice to get good fluid flow.

 

Great idea !!!

In all my years of poking my head under vehicles, I have yet to notice one actually having any kind of cap over the bleeders.

Seven trucks and numerous trailers in the yard and not a cap on any of them.

My next mission is going to be finding some neat RED caps to pop on all the bleeders around here.

Maybe I can find a sack full of those shiny red silicone vacuum-line caps that will fit nicely.


I always slather the threads of bleeders with anti-sieze; it makes life a lot easier the next time.


Thanks.

 

Thanks all for the input! The 93 is a 4x4; and I did take the bleeder screws out, and look them over. I haven't used the truck much in the last two years - so no mudding etc. The bleeders have surface rust, and I didn't have the caps on them. The small ball inside could be stuck, due to water getting in the top hole. I will try giving them a blow with compressed air. I ordered some new bleeders from Summit, just in case.

Next question - when you get an ABS/brake warning on the dash, could this trigger the pin on the metering valve, shutting off fluid flow to the rear brakes, and diverting the fluid to just the front brakes? Maybe I need to turn the truck on, or put the ignition in accessory, then push down hard on the brake pedal, to try and get the metering valve pin functioning??? Am I way off base on my reasoning here?

 

I never saw a bleeder with any kind of "ball" in it anywhere.

All I have ever seen are just a threaded bolt-like fitting with a hole drilled mostly through, with another little hole cross-drilled into the lengthwise hole.

When you back the bleeder-screw out a thread or so, fluid passes around the wedge-shaped end of the bleeder and escapes out through the hole.

I have poked wires through hundreds of them and never ran into any ***** yet.

 

Bearkiller,
Thanks for the reply! I always though the 'special' Speed Bleeder screws had some sort of small ball inside, which prevented air from being drawn into the brake system, during the bleeding procedure. I though that is what made them different, from standard bleeder screws?

 

I have no experience with "speed bleeders"; they may very well have a ball/spring gizmo in them, sort of a one-way check-valve, such that once you loosen the bleeder, when you push the pedal, fluid and any air will immediately squirt out the opening.

If they are speed-bleeders, I would remove them and soak them in WD-40 or somesuch, until I could get them back in operating order.

Better yet, replace them with standard bleeders and see if that works.

 

In my opinion them speed bleeders are a waste of money... All you need is a pop bottle with a hole drilled in the cap, and a rubber tubing to fit over the bleeder. Put enough brake fluid in the bottle to submerge the tube, and pump the brakes slowly until there is no air bubbles, Clear tube works the best, but black will suffice if you cant find any....

 

Many years ago, a very mechanically inclined friend had a 1978 K-10 Chevy that he had tried and tried to get the air out of the system.

A really old-time mechanic told him to do just what you said, except at all four wheels at once.

He did and it worked.