simonp

I finally pulled the trigger an bought a 93 1Ton extended cab 5spd for $3500. 142,000 miles. One reason it was relatively cheap was that it has a problem. The speedo doesn't work. It does not have the power it should. I'm now trying to solve these problems.

At rest I can only rev the engine to about 2200rpms before it won't go any higher. Driving around it feels like it lacks power in general. In 2nd gear while moving it will rev to about 3100RPMS. In 5th on the freeway it won't go over 2100 rpms. I get no noticeable smoke in any gear while moving. At rest if I rev it a bit I can make some "dirty white" smoke.

I have been searching and reading here. I have a list of things to look at but I'm having trouble finding this stuff. pre-filter, shutoff solenoid, etc...

First question. Where the heck is the fuel heater w/ pre-filter screen? I see that thing down above the starter on the drivers side, but isn't that the lift pump? It has a little handle next to it. Is that the priming pump? I can't figure out where the pre-filter is on this thing. Has anyone got a picture showing where it is exactly?

Also... where is the shutoff solenoid? Is it on the IP itself?

Where is the "pumpkin"? I'm trying to locate the speed sensor and haven't a clue what the pumpkin is referring to.

I also suspect I need a new thermostat. This thing never warms up. Should the needle be halfway between cold and warm in normal running?

Can anyone recommend a good source for parts? I'm in the Portland, Oregon area. Are there any local parts counters that are good? What about an online parts dealer?

Free89W350

PS welcome to the site there is a bunch of great info here. Check out the "Sticky" at the top of the page there is a lot of great info in there.

TLDC

I can't help with the problems you're having but I hope one of these links or info will help some!! www.genosgarage.com has the service manual for your truck for $99.00 I don't know if someone else has it cheaper. www.partstrain.com and www.rockauto.com seem to have some stuff for your yr truck (I only know this because my buddy drives a '93)
you might also FIRST try the tech pages at the top of DTR I believe that is where I downloaded the parts manual (with pictures!!) for '90-'93 I can e-mail that to you if you can't find it (just PM me your e-mail address) I also found Valley Wagon which sells the fuel solenoid (price has changed I think it was about 65.00 but worked great!!) one more thing in the link pages at the top of DTR helps too!!! Take care!!

dieselJon

I hope I answered somethings. Go to the top of the screen and click User CP and go to Signature and write what kind of truck it is (year, make, 4x4 or not, what type of tranny, etc.) so for future reference, we dont have to ask the same questions over and over.

Thanks!

Jon

taterfarm

check to see if you are getting full throttle travel. Have someone put the petal to the floor and look at the pump to see if the throttle is actually fully open. My truck gained a lot of acceleration after fixxing this little problem.

then read the sticky on how to turn up the pump and all the precautions so you dont hurt anything doing so.

welcome and have fun!

simonp

You think the nozzles are clogged? The fuel filter appears to be new. It's pretty clean and white. Does anyone here recommend running 'diesel purge' or some other cleaning stuff?

Does the 1st gen have a fuel heater at all (I read here that they didn't)? Is there a pre-screen on this truck? Is there a screen in the tank somewhere? I want to eliminate supply problems, blocked filters, etc before I start suspecting the IP. Is there an easy way to plumb a fitting for a fuel pressure sender? Is there an easy way to determine if the lift pump is working OK?

Thanks! Should I be able to see something move when I turn the key? The truck seems to take a few seconds to stop after I shut off the key. Is that normal?

The needs never gets much above the first tick mark after the C. It never gets to the middle of the temp gauge. If I run it on the freeway it'll climb to the first mark, but at idle it drops down again. I keep thinking it's a stuck open thermostat.


Thanks for the help! Yet another engine project... here we go.

--Chris

rainfade

White smoke when giving it the pedal in neutral and gutless... in my case the pump was tired and not advancing with the RPM's
Fresh pump fixed it right up.
That was on my '92 so far the '93 is fine.

In my case I started with filter, lift pump checked pressure from lift pump etc.. Maybe you'll get lucky and that'll fix it but like I say the symptoms sound awfully familiar and the old timers tell me white smoke = lack of fuel black is a lack of air.

dieselJon

The fuel filter cleanliness on the outside means nothing if it has crap or flakes of gel in it.

Yes the fuel heater is in that piece. How to check it, I dont know. There should be a 3 prong female end connecting to the TOP of the filter housing. That is the heater plug.

No, the shutdown solenoid is in cased in the metal. All you see is 2 wires and a nut about the size of a 22mm, I think.

Does the engine buck and make the belt squeek? If so, yes that is normal but if it is stumbling, and then quits, no.

Stuck thermostat is what it seems now.

simonp

Yeah, this is my worst case scenario and I'm fine with it. The guy who sold it to me told me it was likely the IP and even recommended someone to do the rebuild. I mainly want to eliminate other possibilities before dropping $600-$800 on it. I may just take it in and have them diagnose it. I just fear that they'll recommend an IP rebuild no matter what.

Thanks for the clarification. I become confused about 1st gen vs 2nd gen and differences like these. I was hoping to find a clogged pre-filter as the cause of my power problem. I guess the 1st gens don't have this screen.

Chrisreyn

Body or engine parts?
I woudl suggest you replace teh fuel filter, check your fluids and replace the air filter as well.
It sounds like its running about normal for a bone stock truck to me..
The fun part is mod's to make it just how you want it.....

MikeThomas

I know there has been no mention of pump tampering, but does anyone think that the throttle shaft could have been indexed wrong by the PO?

Alwaysworking

when i put my gsk in i did that and it felt like it did before the gsk and i had to raise the low idle to make it idle. indexed it to the right spot and man a lot of power.

but i would start with the fuel filter and make sure all the wires are connected to the pump. even though we have no computers to control it.

rainfade

[QUOTE=simonp;2003337]Yeah, this is my worst case scenario and I'm fine with it. The guy who sold it to me told me it was likely the IP and even recommended someone to do the rebuild. I mainly want to eliminate other possibilities before dropping $600-$800 on it. I may just take it in and have them diagnose it. I just fear that they'll recommend an IP rebuild no matter what.








Quick test the local pump shop gave me is to loosen the pump and advance it all the way see if it is less gutless if not perhaps your problem(s) lie elsewhere.

dpuckett

For your gutlessness-
check for slack in the throttle linkage. The part that has the adjustable threaded ***** on each end. Loosen the jambnuts, and turn the center in or out to lengthen/ shorten the rod as needed. My 93 W250 had about 1/2" slack in it. Havent driven is since I adjusted it, but it should have a little more pep and high end revving ability.

Adjust valves. There is info in the sticky about this. Some adjust the valves a little tighter than the book calls for (there is an aceptable range, and the tighter spec is still within that range), I dont anymore. I've gained 3mpg by adjusting the valves.

VSS is on the transmission output housing, or the t-case output, as the case may be. There is a sensor on the pumpkin, but that is for the RWAL. Lots of debate on bypassing/ disabling this feature. Do what you wish with it.

FOr all your troubleshooting, start simple and work your way up. My mom had a speedo problem, and the wire was broken inside the insulation about 3" from the plug in. I stripped it down, moved the female end of the plug, and good speedo since then.

Change ALL fluids and filters, regardless of what the previous owner claimed. I'd also see how hot the heat is coming out of the vents. If it will burn your hand, I'd say bad sending unit. If it only gets to luke warm, bad t-stat. Both are very good possibilities. Flush your cooling system while you have it apart if you replace the t-stat.

Daniel

simonp

Thanks for all the advice. I just took it in for an alignment and 2 new front tires and received some bad news.

Needs a new center link, idler arm, and upper and lower ball joints. They don't want to align it without doing this stuff first.

~$800 just for the above items.

Plus the two new tires and 6 tire balance for ~$350

$1150 and I haven't even started dealing with the power issues that may require an IP rebuild. I beginning to wonder if buying this was a bad idea.

Crap!