so i am redoing my front axel u joints but can't figure out how to get the axle jamb nut loose from inside the hub. anyone know what tool or where to get it or an oltimer way of gettin' this thing loose? i tried a wedged screw driver but it didn't feel good so i stopped any help would be great cause now it's half apart.

thanks in advance

 

Ive used a hammer and cold chisel before.

 

On the son's 1990 model, we used the same 2-9/16 thin-walled hub-socket that we also use on all the Dana rears.

His front-end has the good double-nut/folding-tab-washer system.

Yours may be different.

 

The 92's uses a 4 pin socket. Here is the snap on socket. Any parts store can cross that number to whatever brand they have. If they can't cross it. Find a better parts store. You don't need parts from there.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all

 

sweet thanks a bunch

 

any other speciality tool i might need after that

it'd save me sometime if i knew now. i just don't really like banging the shout outa things at wacky angles.

 

An air chisel helps getting the spindle and brake caliper mounting bracket off.

 

Is it the same 4-pin socket that fits all the older GMs, Fords, and Dana-44-Dodges since the beginning of time ??

Thanks.

 

It does have 4 pins but aparatentl is larger. Autozone has 1 4 every size but the dana 60 ,napa suxs to no help, oreilly has the 6 lug, 4x4 store ain'[t got it, local parts wharehouse can't find 1. I'm startin to think of gettin' rid of this heap s#!t! can't get nothin' nowhere for it.

 

that socket took me forever to find!!! the snap-on and matco tool guys didnt have them in stock and werent sure what socket to use. auto-zone dont bother! never bother for that matter! i got lucky and found mine at a small mom and pop tool parts store $25 and they always have 1 in stock. and bearkiller im pretty sure its not the socket your talking about. that one is the slightly smaller size

 

If one had a nut to use for a pattern, it would be a simple matter to take a piece of pipe/tube and either cut the teeth/prongs or weld them on.

We have made more than one specialty wrench for various applications.

I would see if I couldn't spin off one of the nuts and then just make a socket.

 

great idea.
she ain't gettin traded in on "cash for clunkers" yet


i'm all for fabricatin' but i never caught that part in the sticky so i wasn't prepared for it. anyways finally found that lock nut tool at the main autozone store hangin on a rack. got it off finally and got front axels out. now jus gotta get the u joints off the axels and new ones in and put it all back together

replaced my jammed caliper hopefully this will solve power loss problem.
still gonna replace fuel filter

should i think of replacing the inner seals in the pumpkin? i never wanna get into this thing again after this.

oh yea anyone know how to check for warped rotors while i got it all apart?

thanks to everyone

 

If you decide to do the inner axle seals. That drive socket for the spindle nuts makes a good seal driver. Flip it around and the drive end fits the seal real good.

 

Check the sticky, part # posted there.

 

If you plan to keep it awhile, get Spicer u-joints.

greasable- 5-733x
non-greasable- 5-806x

I wouldn't do the inner seals unless they leak. If they are original, than have a metal cover that guides the axles in. Personally I have never had to mess with one on theses older 60 front ends, or even a 44 for than matter.

Now the 2nd gens, yes they will leak on ya.

To check the rotors, you got to put it back on, just with one nut to get the slop out of the bearings. Then and use a dial indicator as you turn it.