I have replaced many of the steering linkage, and checked and rechecked the rest, but my steering is almost too easy. so when I hit a bump the wheel starts moving on its own. When you turn the wheel on the road, its like you could almost blow on it and turn the wheel


Any ideas? Something to check for?

 

Sounds like you need to move you caster....a .......forward?

Maby some one with more experience with alignment can help!

 

Have you tightened the steering box?

 

Have you checked the steering coupler? It is that joint that attaches the steering shaft to the PS box. Mine had a quater turn of slop in it before I replaced it with a Borgenson shaft. Also the over-center adjustemnt on the box is a quick easy way to tighten it up a bit and get it centered. There's a TSB on this at:

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm

Did that and got it just about spot-on now, nice and tight, no slop whatsoever.

 

My father in law has aligned it 2 different times, and both times its in spec. I disconnected the steering shaft, and I couldnt feel any play beteew the shaft and the coupler, I mean none. I checked those TSB's and although a different year, I will give her a shot. Thanks

 

most power steering pumps have a relief valve at the pressure outlet. usually they fail on the low pressure side, but yours could be stuck shut (meaning that your pressure is too high). if you remove your pressure hose, you will (probably) see that the fitting it is threaded into is actually a relief valve. that will unthread from the pump housing and you should then be able to inspect the poppet and spring. the poppet must move freely and the spring must press firmly against it.

usually the spring fails leaving the pressure low, but the poppet could get stuck making it too high.

the gear itself also provides feed back to give you "feel" of the road. that could (maybe) have a problem if the torsion bar inside the spool valve is broken or weak. but, i think that this would make the vehicle highly uncontrollable. one way to test it would be to see how much play is in the wheel when the motor is not running. the torsion bar connects the input shaft to the output shaft inside of the gear. if it broke, then i think the gear would have tons of slop when the pump isn't feeding it (motor not running).

 

I love to spend other peoples money. Have you thought of installing an aftemarket steering stablizer?

 

Well I tightened up the steering box, and it made the difference in feel there, but my other "wondering" problem is still there.

I cross rotated front tires...no good. I checked the steering coupler, and it seems tight, I pulled it apart and rebuilt it, we will see tomorrow how it does-however it wasnt horrible before. When I hold my hand off the wheel, I can actualy watch the steering wheel go back and forth pretty frequently,and it seems like all at once Ill hit a low spot or area on the road, and the truck will dart to one direction very suddenly.

We checked it again at the garage today and everything is tight. But it doesnt feel right going down the road.

With the steering shaft off the sector shaft does have a tad of play(up and down) and the seal is leaking.

The other thing I noticed-but not sure if its related, when at a stop and engine running, if I turn the wheel to the right, its smooth, but if I go back to the left(at any point) it seems to hit a semi-tight spot immediatly and takes more effort to turn back to the left.

I appreciate everyones help on this, I am scheduled to pickup my new GN trailer next week and want to "feel safe"

 

The tight spot is probably from you nut adj on top, try loosing it ssslight and see if it helps!

sounds like you need a new gear box!?

 

Do these 2wd have a problem with the steering box cracking on the frame? I was just out to the garage, and was watching, i noticed the steering box twitch when she went back and forth, and if you push sideways on the fender it makes this loud creeking noice. If this is so, where exactly am I looking for potential cracks?

 

from what i've read the 2wd don't usually have a problem, BUT.... from what i've rear you're also not as easy on your 2wd that most people might be nothing wrong with using your truck! i say new steering gear and reinforce the frame while you have it exposed.

 

clean the top of the frame off between the radiator and the gear box, check the gear box plate for crack.

someone has a grate pic of it!!!

 

Really sounds like a toe issue to me. Positive caster will also have this affect. You need to take it to a different alignment shop.

 

Manual stuff -
Excessive wheel kickback or loose steering:

Possible Cause - Correction

1) Air in system - Add oil to pump res. and bleed by operating system. Check hose connections

2) Steering gear loose on frame - Tighten attaching screws ( or the fix a cracked bracket lol)

3) Steering linkage joints worn enough to be loose - (Yours are new)

4) Worn poppet valve - Replace poppet valve

5) Loose thrust bearing preload adjustment - Adjust to spec with gear out of vehicle

6) Excessive overcenter lash - Adjust to spec with gear out of vehicle


Notes for 6:
Converted to english from manual speak: It says to do adjustments out of the vehicle on the bench. So this is for reference

1 - Loosen the pitman arm shaft adjustment screw all the way. Then back in 1/2 turn. This is on the cover on the opposite side of the steering box from the pitman shaft.

2 - Turn the stub shaft (The shaft going into the box from the steering column is the "stub shaft" ) stop to stop and find center. The stub shaft should have the flat face on it pointing up. At the same time the groove in the pitman shaft should facing up aligned with the adjusting screw.

3 - With an inch pound torque wrench you basically turn the stub shaft 45 deg left and come back to center (up) and note the preload. Continue past center to 45 deg right and then back to center and note the preload. Rince repeat until desired results. Turning the adjustment screw in adds preload.

Worn gears - 4 to 5 in pounds MORE than worm shaft preload
New gears - 4 to 8 in pounds MORE than worm shaft preload

==

Now that the offical crap is out of the way, I say you use driveway engineerings and loosen the locknut and tighten it a bit and retighten the locknut. Test and repeat. Remember it's IN pounds.

Reminds me of my '66 Coronet with the 13" steering wheel. 100+ through the traps with the front end all light. If you breath the wrong way the car is in the other lane because the pump is going 11000000 RPM...Real fun on slicks too

Den

 

Ok I spend some hard time, loading/unloading, moving, this, that and the other and under certain conditions I can get the Idler Arm to really move up and down(wore out) by grabbing the RF wheel and moving side to side. Can this cause the concerns of the truck wondering around? Im gonna replace it anyways, just wondered if i was onto something.