Anyone know of a source for NEW Nippon Denso starters, for out 1st gen trucks? Seems like Larry B no longer carries new OEM starters for the 1st gen? I already rebuilt my starter once, and it's giving me trouble again. I think it's days are over, and will need to be replaced!

 

I don't know about a new one, but if you still have the original, take it to a good alternator/starter rebuild shop and they should be able to remake it...Mark

 

Larry B's in Washington state used to sell new ones

 

Just FYI, I put a rebuilt jobber in my truck about 5 years ago and haven't had any problems...and it was significantly less expensive.

 

what is it doing, and what did you do to rebuild it?

 

Thanks for the replies! I rebuilt the starter solenoid with Larry B's kit about 4 years ago. The ignition switch on the column was replaced a few years back. Battery is fully charged, and less then a year old. For the past year and a half, sporadically - I would go to start the truck (turn the ignition, after the grid heater wait) and nothing. No clicking, nothing. So; I would pop the hood and jump the starter with a short 12 gauge wire, bypassing the ignition. This procedure would normally start the truck. Other times, the truck would start with the ignition key - without any trouble. Lately; even when I jump the starter motor with a wire - I am getting clicking. Finally after a few minutes of this clicking, using my jumper wire - the starter will finally start the truck. The fuel shutoff solenoid was just replaced - as that crapped out. The ignition relay is new and good as well. So; to me - the starter needs a complete rebuild, or I have a ground issue?? If anyone can recommend a good starter re builder in the Chicago land area, I would appreciate it!

 

more than 1 problem, when the solenoid clicks, the copper contact plate has a bad connection, remove it and wire brush clean it, check bendix plunger for free movement. sounds like intermittent ignition circuit problems are also giving you trouble, you need to locate the source when its failing, checking the ignition switch for power at the start position, ive replaced a failing switch, my starter is original at 370k

 

A few other possibilities too... Must have a good ground connection throughout system, from engine ground strap to firewall, and continuity with any other ground leads. That's clean, bare metal to clean bare metal.

Also battery cables can hide serious corrosion so it sometimes helps to cut and peel back a bit of the plastic coating right next to battery lugs, looking for green or white residues on individual wire strands. If they're corroded, cleaning is only very temporary and they need to be replaced with new, heavy gauge battery leads. If they're okay the cut plastic coating can be resealed with some 3M Scotch 33+ black electrical tape. It's also good to check all of the individual wires and their connectors in circuits to look for broken strands, metal fatigue, corrosion etc.

 

Sooty and JimmieD,
Thanks for the great input! I replaced the copper contacts and Bendix plunger once, a few years back - with Larry B's kit. Since I bought the truck in 06, it has been having trouble with the turn signals. Sometimes they work, other times they don't. I am betting I have a ground issue, probably along with the starter. I am going to start checking the grounds, as well as peeling apart the tape on the battery cables - and see what shape there in. Then I will look into the starter. I'll post back if I have an other issues. Thanks again for the help!

 

Have you checked or replaced the start relay on the fender well ?

 

Actually, repairing the solenoid is not rebuilding the starter. It just needs to be properly rebuilt, with turning and testing the armature, new brushes, bearings, drive, and solenoid parts.

A starter motor is good for a couple hundred hours, a few seconds at a time. Cold starts shorten that. Hard starts use up the time pretty rapidly.

That's why some last for 15 years, and some for a few months. If you have an engine that needs to crank 10 or 15 seconds every start, the brushes won't last long. If it starts with a bump like most of the first gen diesels do, the first thing to go will be the solenoid or the drive, usually a long ways down the road.

All that said, some rebuilders use cheap parts and cut corners, and some do it right.

 

What causes the "clicking" in these original starters 90% of the time is due to a gummed-up starter-drive and the typically weak Dodge starter-engage circuitry.

The stiff "bendix" and weak electrical signal causes the contacts and plunger-washer to pre-maturely wear away and lose electrical contact due to the magnet not having the authority to shove the bendix and thus the contacts into proper engagement.

These starters will live indefinitely if the starter-drive is occasionally accessed and cleaned/lubed; AND, when equipped with a FORD-style starter relay/solenoid.


When it became evident to me that my personal Ford/Cummins that is equipped with the big Ford relay/solenoid seemed to never have any starter issues, I started equipping all of our trucks with them, installing 8-AWG wire from battery-HOT to relay/solenoid and from relay-solenoid to starter-solenoid.

The Dodge factory circuit only triggers the Ford relay/solenoid.

Equipped thus, the starter will be much more powerful and will slam the bendix into engagement with authority.


I have cured "clicking" starters that would never otherwise engage by employing this modification; of course those starters soon got new contacts and plunger and a general lubing to keep them alive for a long time.

Brushes also seem to last much longer when they are receiving all available voltage/amperage.


This works for me and anyone else can do as they see fit.

I posted this information on another site and got a royal flaming from the resident know-it-all for my troubles ---

 

I will add this bit of starter/alternator rebuilder experience.

I have often occasion to take starters/alternators from various equipment (that does not belong to me) to several of the rebuilders located in the closest sizable town. (there are no rebuilders located within 35-miles of our little town)

What I have noticed and definitely do not approve of is that, no matter which of the shops I am sent to, I never get back the exact same starter/alternator that I originally brought in.

Any threaded mounting holes that were in perfect shape on the unit I took in will, more often than not, be all buggered-up and cross-threaded on the "re-built" unit they return to me; likewise for any threaded wire terminals.

Sometimes, the mounting holes will even be smaller or larger or mis-placed.


Every one of these shops always seems to have ten-million "cores" piled all over and I think they just re-work a bunch of their stock-pile whenever it suits their fancy and toss whatever I bring in for service back in the pile.


Hence is why my own stuff never gets taken to a rebuilder.

 

my dad the electrician loved to dismantle anything and everything to save a buck, usually succeeded, and like you, wouldn't give up the good core knowing he would never see it again

 

Bearkiller,
That's some great info! I think I happen to have a 70's F250 Ford starter relay somewhere. I'll have to give that a shot. My ground setup from the block to fame, and frame to the body - definitely needs to be upgraded! I haven't slit the wrapping on the oem battery cables yet, to check their condition. Hope to do that pretty soon.