Today I finally had the time to do some work on my injection pump.

My main goal today was to turn up the fuel and see if I could get more power.

But before I was going to play with the pump I needed to have a way to shut off the air to the engine incase something went wrong and it decided to run away, so with a few scraps I had I was able to put together a rather sturdy device to choke out the engine should something go wrong.

Here you can see I took a piece of aluminum 1 inch thick by 6 inches square and to this I will cement to it a piece of ¼” thick rubber from a piece of Mud Flap, I will use Contact Cement.



Here is the finished product, it is very sturdy.
I will probably polish it when I get some time or maybe Engine Turn it with the swirl marks.



This is how I will use it today; it will also work to cover the inlet of the turbo if I remove the tube to the filter.




Here is a short video clip showing the operation of this block to cut off the air to the engine like I would have done if something had gone wrong.

Although the camera clipped the sound of the engine when it became too loud, I ran the engine up where it was almost to the governor before I blocked off the air supply.



Anyway back to my pump and the fuel screw, I took all of the brackets and throttle assembly off the side of the engine to have better access to the back of the pump.

After I loosened the lock nut I started the engine and started turning up the fuel screw stopping at every quarter turn, I then while I was holding my block in my right hand I blipped the throttle to the stop for a second and let it return to an idle while waiting for it to hang, when it didn’t then I turned the screw another quarter turn stopping and rechecking every quarter turn I had to back out the idle speed screw every ½ turn to keep the idle within the normal range.

I got it turned 2½ turns from where I had started until I had issues with the idle speed where I could not adjust it out any more to lower it so this is where I will stop for now.

What I think I am going to have to do is to re-index the throttle lever on the shaft by one notch.

I am going to remove the lever anyway because it is broken; I went to ADP today and got a new Control Lever to replace it with. I also got some input from the tech about powering my idle.

Then I went for a ride to see how it feels.

You can go for a ride with me, just wipe your feet before you get in please.



My first impression as soon as I got onto the street if there a lot more power so I went to get fuel and took it for a run down the freeway.

The only thing I am concerned about it this time is the 1400* EGT

Oh and by the way, still NO turbo whine.

Let me know what you think.
Jim

 

Looks like my pyro.

Your running a hybrid right?

Any pics of the compressor housing/wheel? [thinkin its weird you cant hear it]
editing:
I just creeped through your photobucket and saw your turbo in the vid. You can most definately hear it there...

Are you going for the no turbo noise? If not, build yourself a bhaf mount and run the 4" tube with the rubber elbows. Mine spooled slightly faster when I did that.

 

Morning Jim. With your thread history of over-engineering applications and the title of this thread, seeing an aluminum block with a chunk of mudflap glued to it was almost disappointing. I was expecting to see a thread on installing a cab-controlled, oil-field quality, emergency air shutoff devise.

Good luck on your pump tuning.

 

I have the Gillett CH-02 upgrade; it came with the new housing and a 60mm compressor wheel.

I could hear it when I had the inlet open but once it was covered it doesn't make any noise.

I even went under a long underpass with both windows open and I could not hear anything just a lot of mechanical noise, I was really hoping adding more fuel would wake it up.

I have my cab pretty well insulated so maybe I muffed all of the sound out.

My filter housing is sealed and is fed from a Ram Air scoop mounted under the bumper; I also have a K&N element.

Jim

 

I am working on a design for a Guillotine Valve, just playing with different ideas for the slide, seals and actuator.

The block of aluminum was one of my more Low Tech ideas I put together in a few minuets.

I just couldn’t see myself using a simple block of wood.

Jim

 

I'm thinking thats probably why you don't hear the turbo.

Also how much manifold pressure are you making now?

Aaron

 

I agree. I betcha if you filmed the truck driving by it would scream out the front.

 

Ditto. Bump up to a BHAF and listen for a difference.

 

Sometimes simplicity is a engineering marvel in its own way…

 

Looks like it is gonna be time for a 60psi boost guage.. That one looked pegged when you were getting on the e-way... Did you notice any more boost with the increased fuel...

 

I can easly peg my gauge past the stop to the small rivet on the right side; I would estimate this to be at 40 PSI.
Jim

 

I liked the "sshhp" when you pulled the shutoff off the intake.

Jim, do you have an extra-loud turn signal flasher or is it really that quiet in your truck? I think that's why you can't hear the turbo.

Don't worry about 1400 on the pyro unless you plan to hold it there for more than 15-20 seconds. I'd be a little more concerned about that pegged boost gauge. I've seen turned up non-intercooled trucks make 50 psi so you need to get an accurate reading. That's just hot air and it's really to much RPM for the turbo.

 

Idle speed.

Tonight I replaced the broken Control Lever on my injection pump and I am finishing up on this project, anyway what do I need to lower my idle speed, I already have the idle screw backed out so it barely touches the lever.

I need to drop it about another 50 RPM to be good.

It has nothing to do if I mismatched the index marks but from when I turned up the fuel screw, so what do I need to turn.

Thanks
Jim

 

if you are out of adjustment on the idle screw you can reindex the throttle shaft and crank the idle screw back out.

and i think you have an electronic flasher mine sounds like that.

Jim you dont happen to have tape over you front door vents do you?
the area where the wires go into the door?

if so that makes a difference in the sound of the turbo

 

Hello Jim. So you have made your fist full fuel screw pump adjustment, congratulations. Did you happen to look out the rear view mirror when you were full power all the way up the freeway on ramp? I would bet that you blacked it out with the fuel settings you have. 2.5 turns on a non i/c is a lot!!! Since you cannot idle down enough with the lever almost touching the pump head, I think you are more fueled than I ever have been. I would easily guess that you were encroaching 50+ psi boost - that gauge was moving fast all the way past max!

I have adjusted my Fuel screw over one hundred of times over the years. I get to the point where I get tired of the fire breathing monster, so I turn it back down, then want to feel the power and turn it back up etc, but I have settled down at a point where I haven't touched it for a long time. at full fuel around 3000 RPM I can hit 38 PSI but I never leave it there long. When I am accelerating thru the gears at lower RPM I hit about 30 PSI max with the MWE slot doing it's job because the turbo is making a loud scream. When I didn't have a MWE in that condition I'd get flutter. (Full Fuel at 1400 rpm-2500)

I found my optimum fuel screw point using this method:

Slowly roll on the fuel lever incrementally until you reach 2500 (or higher if you want)

If at any point with no load the engine starts to increase in RPM (overriding the governor) back off the fuel screw. If you can throttle to 2500 with 3/4 throttle or thereabouts and it equalizes, then you can turn the fuel up until the gov starts to be overridden, then back it off until the gov can control it again, usually you can do this in 1/8th turn increments to find the sweet spot.

The point you have it at you aren't getting a runaway but I'd imagine that if you put it at about 1/8 throttle and hold it, it rpms would climb/runaway to 3000+. I bet that any throttle position just off idle will yield a slow RPM climb/runaway condition even though you're not increasing the fuel lever.

The slow climbing of rpm is like a gasser engine, and I don't like the drive and feel of that. I like the fact that a diesel the throttle can be like a tractor RPM lever, select your governed RPM by pedal position and it will hold it there.. I can stab mine to 3/4" and it will climb to a point in the high 2000s and stay there without climbing. (no tach) This is how stock engines are and the gov will be able to hold it back like that with significant higher fueling. This is how the governor in the VE pumps were designed to operate. I imagine if someone was a really crafty engineer they could figure out how to modify the gov springs / weights or return springs to allow for full governed control with much more fueling.. But as it is, I settled with the setting that allows me to have governed control over all pedal positions without runaway. The seat of the pants feel isn't much different from my fueling now compared to if it were maxxed out again.

Practically speaking, I have plenty of fuel now even though I could turn it up plenty more without runaway at idle.. I have smoke and could have a lot more with AFC adjustments, or could have hardly any at all. I had to monitor the pyro when towing the w200 1972 crew up the hills and actually had to shift to third once up a grade to allow the engine to wind up more to control egts at 50mph, I would be losing RPM with it pegged at 1200 in fourth. So needless to say, I have more fuel than I need to tow. I'd need to look at intercooling it to get lower EGT at this point but I don't mind going a little bit slower if needed up hills when towing, it isn't nearly enough of a difference that it would affect my overall trip time.

Just my .02