BC847

The thing is thermostatically controlled. So it only engages as needed.

Further, and perhaps here's where some of the confusion comes in. It does NOT simply turn fully ON and then fully OFF. It gradually comes on and off. And by gradually, I mean it may only engage partially and no more as per the demand for cooling.

The only time I've actually heard my fan running recently is when it was well over 90*, I had the AC on max, and I was hauling hiney to the beach on the interstate doing over 70mph. With said conditions, one could hear it gradually fade on for about two or three minutes, and then fade off until the temps went up so as to require more airflow through the radiator than what was being pushed/pulled while at those highway speeds.

And yes, it goes a long way in improving fuel mileage.

BearKiller

My intention is to convert my Ford to electric fans, but clearance between the engine and radiator is minimal.

There is a shiny ring on the fins where the blades have kissed several times.

Flex-a-lite does make a slim close-tolerance version of their double-fan that may just barely squeeze in, but they are way out of a Kentucky boy's range under the current administration.

Plus, the measurements are so close that they still may not fit once I get them bought and paid for.



I used to be in the camp against electrics, thinking that an engine-driven fan had to cool better; but, observations of the results of those that have converted to electrics, and just good old common sense, have convinced me otherwise.



Especially on a diesel, the engine-driven fan does least when needed most, low RPM slow-speed stop-and-go with the A/C ON.

Once up to a steady 40-MPH, providing the radiator and cooling system are in good order, the fan could be removed and neither the engine nor the driver know the difference.


An electric fan operates at full speed, regardless of engine RPM or ground-speed, thus cooling far better than any mechanical.

Thunderhog

Another handy thing with an electric fan is you can wire it into the A/C circuit and have really cold A/C at idle!
That said, mine still has a clutch. I have been looking at the newer rigs and they have a themostatically AND electrically operated clutch. I have been thinking that would make a great difference in low speed/idle A/C temps.
Currently, I can watch my mech. temp gauge climb on a hill to exactly 200 degress, then the fan gets louder, and the temp drops. it will just cycle back and forth about 10 degrees after that.

Polaraco

I am pretty sure they have one specific for the fords. You have to poke around or call them.

Once you get the clutch fan out, there's plenty of room. At least in the Dodge there is. Makes it so much easier to work on too

NE frmhnd

I saw a flyer at a Pete dealer (had to have ANOTHER set of intake valve actuators put in that stupid C15) for a 2-speed fan clutch. I don't know who made it or if it would work well in the pickup, but it would probably be slick towing.

Before I got the new clutch in mine, all you could hear, a half mile away, when someone really got on it was the fan. Couldn't hear the motor.

The thermo-clutch needs air flow through the radiator to work properly. Your rad isn't half plugged up is it? How hot are the motors getting before it comes on?

Polaraco

What's the diameter of the fan?

Jim Lane

It was probably a Horton.

Jim

Jim Lane

This is what I did, I have 2 Procomp electric fans that come on as soon as the compressor engages and I have single digit temperatures even in traffic.

If you convert your A/C to R-134 this is a must do just to keep the truck from overheating in traffic.

Jim

Polaraco

Yeah but my intake temps are 10 degrees higher with the AC. Can't be helped

BILTIT

I hear my fan every time i start and drive away in my truck for ~6-8 seconds then it disengages. It is loud when engaged.

rebal

Gm 6.2 6.5s are known to have a heating issue I have been moving the spring on them for a while now, it does seem to help them as the fan will engage sooner never tried it in a dodge yet but I just might .I have a 99 that the a/c quits at a stop light and its had 3 replacement clutches now

bill-d-c

Drove my 93 yesterday, it was 112 degrees out so naturally I was using the AC. The truck has never overheated before, or even came close, but it ran hot. So hot I shut down the AC and slowed down a little (I was running 65). It cooled off quite a bit, just a little above normal. Would the problem likely be the fan clutch? Thanks, Bill

maybe368

I don't know what you mean by running hot, but I never have to shut my ac off for the heat. We get a lot of that here, but the point of my post is that, if the temp goes down after slowing or turning off the ac, it was NOT over heating. That has always been my quick test to see if something is just working a little more than usual or is over heating. In my experience, over heated engines do not cool down, without intervention or shutting down...Mark

bill-d-c

I see what you're saying. On a 1st gen. the temp guage has marks, one at about 1/3rd of the way up the guage (which is where it normally runs), another at about 2/3rds then the mark that "pegs" the guage. It was running above the 2/3rds mark but not pegged. I don't know how hot it got in degrees, only that it was way hotter than normal. Thought of the fan clutch because the thermostat being the problem just didn't add up to me. Thanks, Bill

GIT-R-DONE

I just ordered a new fan clutch for mine today. Changed radiators yesterday, helped a little, but also decided to do the fan thing too. You are not the only one having cooling troubles.