Good morning!

My intercooled truck, I'm struggling with. Owned it for 8 years and the ac system has always had leak issues. Not a mopar guy, so for me this is uncommon and seems to be a continuous issue. In fact, I purchased it at a discount with a non operating system which had a new hose and appear to be low freon.
New compressor in 2007 and mopar ac hoses. Flushed.. assembled. Leaked. Redid this summer with a complete ac box cleaning and new heater core. Leaks horrible.
The metal gaskets at the drier would never seal. Added leak detector uv dye and orings instead of gaskets. Still leaks. Only signs of leakage is residual drip at the drier and expansion valve. No sign of leakage at the compressor. No sign at the condensor, no residual dye at the evap drain.

Need help or advice.. done a bunch of ac work and never had an issue. I've got a used set of spare hoses. I can easilythrowon new or used coils. I just wouldlike cold <45f vent temps. May be the last straw in the no love for mopar products.

Michael

 

Somewhere I was clued in to a gasket sealer for AC systems. It's called NYLOG Gasket Thread Sealant and Assembly Lube. Part Number RT201B 30ml bottle. I used the metal gaskets and put the NYLOG on both sides of the gasket. I also had trouble with the Filter/Dryer not sealing but an extra twist fixed that.

You seem to have a new-ish compressor so the seals of that shouldn't be leaking yet.

Edwin

 

I did use nylog on the gaskets. I think the last run of mopar hoses must have had issues or the current driers don't fit. No old oe one to compare.

This is an intercooler truck, so metal seals at the dryer too.

 

Are you using R-12 or R-134a? I think the R-134a is a smaller molecule so if your hoses are old they may leak more. When I re-did my system I got all new hoses, Compressor, Filter/Dryer, expansion valve and a new condenser. I would have replaced the evaporator but I didn't want to tear out the heater box assembly. Luckily it doesn't leak.

When it cools off here in SoCal I'm converting my system back to R-12. We had record breaking temps here yesterday.

Edwin

 

R12 system.


The issue is these trucks don't have a electric fan. So at low airflow, the high side will soar. Won't cool well, just like an overcharged system. Less a problem with r12 over 134a.

Whats your vent temp @100f day cruising??

Michael

 

I have to keep a small c-clamp on my dryer to keep the metal gaskets from leaking on the Ramcharger.

-Niemand

 

Glad I'm not the only one whom has encountered this.



M

 

Glad I'm not the only one whom has encountered this.



M

 

I haven't checked it lately but it isn't that good. My blower fan is also weak due to resistance in the electrical system. I plan to fix that with a relay to get power direct from the battery. I installed 2 big fans in front of the condenser to help things because I knew that R-134a was problematic. I don't have an intercooler so there was room for them. I power them through a relay and a 40 amp circuit breaker so they come on whenever the compressor runs.

I also have a problem with the high side pressure going over 600 psi and popping the overpressure relief valve on the compressor. This gets oil on the belt and generally p!!sses me off. I can't put as much R-134a in the get good cooling.

The idea of putting a small clamp on the Filter/Dryer to keep it from leaking is a good one.

Edwin

 

I have been running 134A now for quite a few years. My high pressure pop off valve failed early and was replaced with a new one, which I honestly don’t know if it is a 134 one or a 12 one but I do know that it hasn’t failed. I have not installed auxiliary fans and live in a really hot place. Not really sure what this means except that at least one 134 cooled first gen has run for many years, blowing cold and not over pressure...Mark

 

Edwin,

"I also have a problem with the high side pressure going over 600 psi and popping the overpressure relief valve on the compressor. This gets oil on the belt and generally p!!sses me off. I can't put as much R-134a in the get good cooling." wow you've got that way over charged. Your not suppose to use the sight glass for R134a. You max pressure on a very high day, 1800 rpm, max cooling ac, should be ~340-50 ish. I cannot remember the quantity- but 60-70% of the original charge by weight. Reduce your system pressure and your's will cool much better.


Michael

 

You're probably right about that. The system was designed for R-12 so I'm going to convert back. The R-12 cost dearly but IS still available on Ebay. I have the vacuum pump and gauges. I had to make an adapter to go from the R-12 containers to the 1/4 inch flare fitting which cost me about $20. I have to get the R-134a sucked out but otherwise I'm just waiting on cooler weather and the smoke to clear out. We'll see if the Santa Ana's intensify the flames tonight.

Edwin

 

I’m also having A/C problems I charged it and have a leak but haven’t traced it out yet.But my high side was going up past 350 so I started leaving some out til it stayed around 315 320 but man you guys say 600 psi maybe 350 wasn’t bad but I’m no A/C guy just had the gauges and pump from trucking and started fooling around with it .

 

Got a trick to seal 1 sidded stud on dryers, their a pita. Get a thick washer 3/32" that wont interfere with the line, stick it in a vise about 1/4" in jaws, then bend the washer over where it will stick down 1/8" down, when tightening line, align washer bend closest to line away from not and hold while torqueing, this will seal it, aftermarket lines are even worse.

 

also, the bigger second gen fan, will pull more air than any electric will.