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A518 VS. 47RH...........which should I do?

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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 01:15 PM
  #16  
65fury's Avatar
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From: oakdale, california
47RH!!! why build the A518.... in my opinion if your gonna play, tow.. or even just daily drive the truck and you can do the swap... then do it. here is an example.

My built 727- dynoed 465hp and 706tq
My built 47rh- dynoed 505hp and 1165tq

all with the same mods
Even high performance non lockup convertors will slip, so you lose hp and tq and create more heat in the tranny and motor. The swap is easy as pie if you even only have minimal fab skills and mechanic skills. And yes the internals are all almost the same as the A518. The only other tranny i would have swapped in would have been a manual.... but i couldnt get one at the time. My only recomendation if you do an 47rh is research the convertor a bunch before you buy one...... im on my second one and still dont like it. Recon convertors suck... but i was in a pinch and needed a convertor that day so.. oh well.

Jason
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 02:36 PM
  #17  
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goerend or HTS seem to be the hot ticket now.
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 08:06 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Crossy's son
You mean how do you slip a lockup converter? slipping a non lockup converter is easy, all you do is put it in gear, its always slipping

Slip is the same as stall speed... pretty much.

The factory converter will "stall" too high, or slip. Out of the engine's torque range. Hence the reason a lowstall aftermarket converter is needed in even a 300Hp p pump truck.
You were the one that said "slip" the converter. You need to be careful how you use the terminology. When you slip a lockup converter that is locked up you do damage to the clutch linings. There is nothing to "slip" in a non lockup converter. They are a viscous coupling, nothing to slip. What you are refereing to is the as you said stall speed. Dodge has a realatively high stall speed in the CTD converters to protect the trannies. The stall speed is designed into the converters. Someone like Dave Goerend can tighten them up or loosen them up depending on the design of the internals. One other thing people need to watch out for is this notion of percent. As with stall speed that number is meaningless. If you put a converter in a 300HP truck with say a 1700 RPM stall speed, and then put the same converter in a 1,000 HP truck it will stall MUCH higher, probably in the neighborhood of 2,200 or so. Another thing to consider is what you are going to do with the truck. A truck with a BIG single will need a lot more stall speed to get the turbo to light than say a truck with the same HP but a set of twins..........so here we have the never ending converter issues!!!
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Old Jul 13, 2009 | 11:49 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Mcmopar
You were the one that said "slip" the converter. You need to be careful how you use the terminology. When you slip a lockup converter that is locked up you do damage to the clutch linings. There is nothing to "slip" in a non lockup converter. They are a viscous coupling, nothing to slip. What you are refereing to is the as you said stall speed. Dodge has a realatively high stall speed in the CTD converters to protect the trannies. The stall speed is designed into the converters. Someone like Dave Goerend can tighten them up or loosen them up depending on the design of the internals. One other thing people need to watch out for is this notion of percent. As with stall speed that number is meaningless. If you put a converter in a 300HP truck with say a 1700 RPM stall speed, and then put the same converter in a 1,000 HP truck it will stall MUCH higher, probably in the neighborhood of 2,200 or so. Another thing to consider is what you are going to do with the truck. A truck with a BIG single will need a lot more stall speed to get the turbo to light than say a truck with the same HP but a set of twins..........so here we have the never ending converter issues!!!
Well said... A good convertor is a custom convertor. For YOUR application...
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 12:30 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 65fury
47RH!!! why build the A518.... in my opinion if your gonna play, tow.. or even just daily drive the truck and you can do the swap... then do it. here is an example.

My built 727- dynoed 465hp and 706tq
My built 47rh- dynoed 505hp and 1165tq

all with the same mods
Even high performance non lockup convertors will slip, so you lose hp and tq and create more heat in the tranny and motor. The swap is easy as pie if you even only have minimal fab skills and mechanic skills. And yes the internals are all almost the same as the A518. The only other tranny i would have swapped in would have been a manual.... but i couldnt get one at the time. My only recomendation if you do an 47rh is research the convertor a bunch before you buy one...... im on my second one and still dont like it. Recon convertors suck... but i was in a pinch and needed a convertor that day so.. oh well.

Jason

That's cool that you have before and after numbers. I've been wondering about that myself.
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #21  
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From: oakdale, california
Yup... i was always curious as too how much hp and torque got lost in the convertors.... hp wasnt too bad but torque was krazy! And yes! have a convertor built to your truck.... it will make driving it and towing so much better.

jason
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 10:37 PM
  #22  
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I am still debating on whether to just yank my A518 and have it built tuff or just invest in an 47RH that has a mild build. I am a little skiddish about doing the 47RH swap just because I have never really done a mod like this before and not sure if its something a weekend wrencher can do. I am really interested in seeing a complete and full list of all parts/pieces required for the 47RH conversion. It would be nice to have a solid 1:1 connection in overdrive without slippage/heat buildup.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #23  
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I think theres two write ups on 47RH installs in the sticky.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 10:53 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Crossy's son
I think theres two write ups on 47RH installs in the sticky.
Yup, now I am putting together a shopping list and doing some price estimates on parts.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 10:56 PM
  #25  
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From: Keizer, oregon
Originally Posted by Firstgenfanatic
Yup, now I am putting together a shopping list and doing some price estimates on parts.
make sure you check with http://www.atlastruckparts.com/

they are a good place to get ideas on prices
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 11:39 PM
  #26  
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There should be a site

www.IhaveNoMoneyButNeedaBuiltTrans.com
lol
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 09:10 AM
  #27  
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From: Fergus Falls, MN
Originally Posted by Firstgenfanatic
Yup, now I am putting together a shopping list and doing some price estimates on parts.
What's going to end up cost you the most is the 47rh itself. Some times you can get lucky and find someone who doesn't know what they have, but most of the time you're going to be paying for one. Around my area you'll pay around $500.00 for a 47rh that needs rebuild. They are a sought after trans for the simple fact that they are lock up and do not require a computer.

Your other option would be to find one out of a V10. There are some internals that have to be changed, but if you're going to build it that shouldn't be a problem.
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 06:48 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 95ram
Your other option would be to find one out of a V10. There are some internals that have to be changed, but if you're going to build it that shouldn't be a problem.
Its nice to know that the gasser transmissions will work with some internal mods.
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 08:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Firstgenfanatic
Its nice to know that the gasser transmissions will work with some internal mods.
if I remember right the governor weights are the only issue with the Gasser trans.
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Old Jul 18, 2009 | 11:08 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Firstgenfanatic
Its nice to know that the gasser transmissions will work with some internal mods.
Only the V-10, the V-8's have a completely different bell housing and the internal parts are a lighter duty setup!!
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