In the next couple days I am doing a valve adjustment on a 91 non I/C truck.

Questions:

Does the intake horn need to come off to remove valve covers and adjust valves next to the horn? It is the first time I have adjusted the valves on this Non I/C truck and I am not sure if those middle covers next to the horn come off without removing the horn. Horn is tied into the throttle brackets and items I don't want to remove if not needed.

Is there a gasket at the horn end (at 4 bolt connection) that should be replaced or is it normally a reusable piece?

Remote starter switch - Thought I might use it to rotate the engine with the companion cylinder method so I can easily see when #1 and #6 are at overlap. What starter/connection points are used for the remote switch two connections (basic question, I know, but have never used a remote starter switch with this motor)

 

Why not just put a wrench on it like outlined in the sticky?

 

It wouldn't take long to remove the crossover. 4 bolts at the intake side and 1 clamp at the turbo. Replacing the intake gasket would be a good idea. Try not to break the seal of the gasket below the grid heater. In fact, it's not much more work to just replace both gaskets anyhow.

I'd prefer not to use a remote starter switch to the turn the motor over but that's just me. Either use the barring tool or a breaker bar and 15mm socket on one of the vibration damper bolts.

 

Turning the alternator bolt with a 7/8 socket CCW works for some but not other (belt slip)

 

Regarding the crossover removal, that is what I would avoid if possible. The question is, can it be left in place for valve cover removal and valve adjustment access? Rather not remove and replace gaskets if not needed.

I have a barring tool which can be used. I asked about the remote starter switch for easy viewing up top during valve overlap positioning.

 

No need to remove the intakes on either one, IC or non IC.

 

Thanks for the confirmation. Did you use the barring tool, alt nut, crank bolt or starter to do the rotating for you?

 

i have removed the crossover and have left it on....either way it will work. Just have to wiggle the valve covers out diagonally, if you leave the crossover on. I always use the alternator nut...works well for me.

 

I have a barring tool, I put a universal on the tool and a real long extension then you stand in front while turning the eng over and can watch the valve action with no problem.

 

x2

James

 

Thanks for the info and feedback. Finished checking and adjusting the valves. Used the companion cylinder method, counter clockwise engine rotation with the alternator nut worked great. I have the barring tool but didn't use it. On automatic trans trucks with the heat exchanger location it seems the barring tool access is inconvenient to say the least. No need to remove the Non I/C motor intake horn as others have said.

The valves that were within 1 thousand of spec, I left and adjusted the rest to spec.

Here is where the valves were at (int, exh):

#1 .009 .021
#2 .009 .021
#3 .016 .020
#4 .013 .021
#5 .013 .021
#6 .017 .023