anyone have a pic of a 1st gen like that? preferebly a club cab.

 

no one has a truck with this set up?

 

Mine is not a club cab, but it has 4 inches and 33x13.50's on a 10 wide wheel.

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12v did you have to lengthen the front drive shaft for the 4 inch lift? and what what brand is the lift?

 

I have 90 reg cab on 4 inch with 35's
its nice but they some times rub! u might want to trim the iner part of the front frnder. it rubed pritty good when i had BFG m/t's
but with my new toyos A/T's its all good. if i could attach a pic i would, but cant figure out how? and on the drive line issue your good up to an 8" that i know of. a freind had 8" with 2" body lift and runnin 40" with stock drive lines itwas a going fool. to bad it didnt have a cummins in it, it was a 93 with a 440 transplant

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this is a 6" with 35's. its not my truck, but another members



this is a 8 inch with 37's and a custom cross over steering from a tdr member

can some one tell me how to get my picks on here?

 

Fred Swanson runs 285/16's on a 4'' lift. It is the ideal first gen, in my simple little mind, anyway

Edit: Fred has had some custom driveshaft work done on the front, I think. PM him for details.

 

Mine's a club cab with 35's. Check out my pics.

 

I did not have to do anything to the front driveshaft, I could prob be lengthed just a little but not ness.

As far as what kind it is, well ummmmm. the rear is just a block, and the front springs are off of a chevy truck that had 4 inches of lift, I used my main leaf and the used the rest of the leafs off the chevy 4in leafs. All I can say is that it works and it didn't really cost me much other than the shocks,rear block and U-bolts.

 

The stock driveshaft is nowhere near long enough if you fully extend the suspension. Also, the ujoints will bind without a clearanced CV and yoke. The front shaft cost under $250, for a completely new unit. I used Skyjacker springs, and it's easily 4 inches.

Not sure the gas motor front driveline is the same, but mine is a 5speed, not an auto.
12vchevydually, looking at your pic and mine, I don't think yours is as high as mine. The gap looks larger on my pic, and my tires are 33's on 8 inch rims.

 

fred

i have a 4" and am runnin 35's and have had my suspension fully extended with no problems! no binding has ever happend. and i had her in some rough spots a few times.

i have seen a and been in a 93 that had a stock front line with 8" and 2 " body runnin 40" tires. the only thing that busted was a rear u joint, only because this truck was played in hard. it was bought with a a blown cummins in it. so my freind put his 440 out of his totaled ram charger. we had lots of fun in that truck.

micaiahfied, you will be safe with a 4" lift and 35's on a stock drive line. but like i said before they might rub. but evey tire company has diffrent sizes. they dont all run the exact. like desertrats 325 tires, they avertise them as a 35, when there a lil bigger. my toyos are a 315, and are advertized as a 35, and are pritty close, but my BFG's were 35-12.50-16's and were actually smaller. so it also depends on your tire your going to run. 35's on a store bought 4" lift will rub some. i do know this. i had a skyjacker 4" and a rough country on there now, and 35's have rubbed on bolth.
not so bad with my toyos though. but i did some minor trimming on the iner frnder and no more rub.

if any one can tell me how to get my pics on here i'll post some! help a newbe out please

 

I started with a 6" skyjacker lift, all spring, it ended up being about 7 inches of lift in the front. The front driveshaft worked with a little grinding but it pulled apart at the slip shaft very easily(ie-hit the skinny pedal). I ended up having the springs reworked to where I have about 5 inches of lift. The front driveshaft is fine now. I don't know if this is the case but the guy I bought my truck from had an ext cab with 6" of lift and didn't have to do any driveshaft work. Don't know why but it seems like every truck(same make and model) is a little bit different when lifted(as far as installation and look afterwards) Just my $.02.
Sam

 

Well mine had the original 250,000 mile front shaft, and it would slip apart driving down the road. It was not going to work, at all. That's a huge variance, in my eyes.

Micaified, just droop the front end and see what your shaft does.

 

I'm with Fred on this one. I put only a 2 in. lift on mine and it was OK with the weight on, but with the front axle hanging, the drive shaft was in a severe bind at the axle. Required quite a bit of grinding to correct. Also had to touch up the CV joint a bit. These are fairly flexy springs however with a fair amount of travel.

 

[QUOTE=Fred Swanson]The stock driveshaft is nowhere near long enough if you fully extend the suspension. Also, the ujoints will bind without a clearanced CV and yoke. The front shaft cost under $250, for a completely new unit. I used Skyjacker springs, and it's easily 4 inches.


Sorry for butting in, also in the process installing a 6" Skyjacker lift. What do you mean by clearanced CV and yoke??? I have had the front drive line lengthed for 135.

 

Grind the metal housing of the CV, so the ujoints can allow the shaft to droop more before binding, and they used a longer bodied slip joint for the pinion side ujoint. Mine was the original and the CV was shot, so it made sense to rebuild a new shaft.

The place is in Phoenix, used normal parts. It was much cheaper than other places I checked with, by far.