2 batteries. Isolator? solenoid? switch?
With a solenoid you can connect the coil so it interconnects the batteries into the circuit every time the ignition is on charging the axillary battery and you can also configure it so you can jump start yourself.
But using a separator the onboard electronics takes control of all of its functions by not allowing the axillary battery to connect until the main battery reaches 13.2 volts giving your mains priority, same once the engine is off it will automatically disconnect after a few seconds.
A separator still has a heavy duty solenoid but it is automatic and you don't have to worry about draining your axillary battery if you didn't disconnected it when you stopped your truck.
Jim
But using a separator the onboard electronics takes control of all of its functions by not allowing the axillary battery to connect until the main battery reaches 13.2 volts giving your mains priority, same once the engine is off it will automatically disconnect after a few seconds.
A separator still has a heavy duty solenoid but it is automatic and you don't have to worry about draining your axillary battery if you didn't disconnected it when you stopped your truck.
Jim
If you do go with the solenoid route, don't make a common mistake and try and use a Ford type starter solenoid, they are only intermittent duty and will burn up after a few minuets.
You need a good quality constant duty solenoid, your grid heater solenoids will work but they are only rated at 100-amps and they are continuous duty.
You can parallel 2) 100-amp solenoids together but it is best to get a good 200-amp solenoid.
Back in the 70"s they used to sell dual battery solenoids and I saw a lot of problems with them, same with the diode type isolators, the old 35-amp alternators couldn't produce enough current to maintain the second battery because of the voltage drop.
Jim
is there a difference between a constant and continous duty solenoid?
also would the solenoid or separator require both batteries to be the same or similar? because i have 2 different batts.
also would the solenoid or separator require both batteries to be the same or similar? because i have 2 different batts.
why would both batts have to be the same if there is a solenoid or separator keeping them apart?
i have two deep cycles, but they arent the same battery.
Also, all the shops are telling me that i only need a 70 or 80 amp solenoid for my purposes with a 120 amp alternator.
are they just confused or whats goin on there?
i have two deep cycles, but they arent the same battery.
Also, all the shops are telling me that i only need a 70 or 80 amp solenoid for my purposes with a 120 amp alternator.
are they just confused or whats goin on there?
I know there is tons of information and scientific discussion scattered all through the "net" that advises to the contrary; BUT, in many years of actual practice, I have never had a negative issue while running multiple batteries of mixed types, ages, and amperages.
If there is any detrimental effect, I have never been able to detect it.
I have ran mixed sizes and types of batteries wired parallel and un-isolated for many thousands of miles and have not yet seen any real evidence of any real problem from doing so in real world practice.
I am not advising that anyone else do so, just that I have never had any problems from so doing.
We had a deep cycle boil over and be destroyed within a year of being on the same charging cycle as a starting. Both batteries were new, and of good quality. 1 try, and 1 failure.

cheers,
Douglas
Now the SLI battery would not have served well when subjected to a deep-cycle-chemistry-approved charging regiment. It is a question of knowing what you're doing before making mods....sort of like the admonition to put in an exhaust pyrometer before getting at the pump...
cheers,
Douglas

cheers,
Douglas
Yes you need one rated for at least the alternator rating, or larger if you have accessories that draw more. Like the 200A grid heater.







