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1st Gen Hydroboost brake conversion from 2nd gen hardware - Writeup
1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
1st Gen Hydroboost brake conversion from 2nd gen hardware - Writeup
The photos in my old thread have been broken for quite some time, and I was never able to have a moderator open the thread for editing. So now I present the new and revamped 2nd gen hydroboost conversion thread.
Parts Required:
Vacuum Pump from 2nd gen 12 valve (the latter vacuum pump used on 1st gens may also work, but I didn't have one to try it with).
Oil supply line that attaches to the vacuum pump - you will need the entire line along with all the fittings for it so you can attach it to your block.
(Optional) Power Steering Pump from 24 valve (This pump has two return lines so you don't have to use a tee in the lines).
Hydroboost brake booster from 24 valve Dodge Cummins
All the stock lines that come with the hydroboost from the 24 valve truck - return line, hydro to gear, and PS to hydro.
About two quarts of power steering fluid - I bought a gallon just in case.
Brake line adapters - sorry, I can't remember the sizes off hand. I would recommend just cutting off both lines past the bend, and splicing in new ones to thread into the MC.
If you have a non-intercooled truck like mine, you'll probably have a dual-canister vacuum pump with an almost impossible-to-reach bolt in the lower position. The head is 15mm, and something like this will take it right out with no trouble.
Back of the new power steering pump, complete with dual return ports.
The complete and assembled power steering/vacuum pump.
The new hydraulic pump will have a nipple of the end of the gear, whereas the old may not have one. This is perfectly fine.
Here you can see how I had to arrange the oil lines. I removed the plug from the left-hand side and put the oil supply line there. I then transferred the plug to the right-hand side where the oil pressure sender was located. It had to be placed elsewhere because the new PS unit was too long for it. You can also see its relation to the KSB.
You will have to line up the unit and mark spots to drill two new mounting holes through the firewall.
The pump in place. I put a 1/2" vacuum cap on the pump because I don't need vacuum for anything now.
You must drill out the hole in the brake push rod to 1/2" before it will fit on the pedal rod in the cab. You may also want to shorten the rod or bend the pedal when you do this, because it causes the pedal to be raised up quite a bit higher than normal.
I relocated the oil pressure sender to the top of the filter housing. I lengthened the wire going to it by about two feet to make it work.
This is where things get tricky. The original fittings on my non-IC truck were 1/2" and 9/16". I had to change them to 12 and 14mm. I managed to adapt the smaller one with three different fittings, but I had to cut off the large one and splice on a smaller fitting for it to work. It took the guys at Napa about an hour to help me scrounge up what I needed there.
Throttle bracket in place. I had to cut off the bottom half in order to facilitate the PS pump.
And a couple new pics of the finished product.
I didn't add this in above, but you can not use a 24 valve intake tube with this system - UNLESS you also have the 24 valve intake plate. Otherwise it sticks out too far and will hit the Master Cylinder. A stock 1st gen intercooled tube may not work, either. I custom fabbed a 3" pipe when I installed my turbo and intercooler last year.
Something I noticed, the strength of my power steering was significantly decreased after this install. I suppose the passing of the fluid first through the hydroboost takes most of its pressure. The steering is still good enough you can easily turn the wheel with one hand, though.
The braking power is AMAZING. Pressing down the pedal about 1" will bring the truck to a complete stop very quickly. Any more will make you skid. I can also hit the brakes multiple times in a row without the pedal getting stiff and hard to push. I would recommend this to anyone.
More relevant info:
If you decide to, say, cut off the rearmost mount of the hydro unit so it will sit flush with the firewall, you will have to lengthen your hoses somehow. I just want to note that the two fittings on the hydro unit are 16 and 18 mm. I thought they were the same size, and had to wait another three days because of it. Don't make that mistake.