I own a 01 24 valve, but looking at a 93. Just wondering what the people that have them and play with them think about them. HOw reliable they are, what kind of mileage and power you can get out of them. Also what are there strong and weak points. If anyone could fill me in on any of this it would be much appreciated. Thanks alot

 

what is your main goal with the 93 also is it a auto stick 2 or 4wd crew or reg cab?

i have WAY more fun with my First gens than my third the ONLY problem i have Ever had is the auto trans but money fixes alot of things the ride does not compare to my 03 but it is faster at lower HP and TQ numbers you wont regret buying a first gen if its in decent shape

 

it is a 93, long box, ext cab, 5 spd, 4wd. has roughly 215K on it. Looks immaculate from the pictures i've seen. Goin' to college and looking to cut some cost. (doesn't sound right, right?) But still I want something that I can build up and "toy" with, yet still have it be practical. Am I asking to much of a 1st gen.?

 

sounds about right, you can get a lot of cheap power out of a first gen, once you add some power the, if the clutch is oridganal stock it will need replaceing with a new one the pressure plates wear out.

sounds like a good truck, just the one i need, where is it again?

 

Sounds like a great truck. They ride rough, and not very refined, but there's something very appealing about them.

They're good on fuel too.

 

The only headache I get is from the Sherman Tank ride quality. The 6" lift and nearly solid 9 per side leaf springs in the rear doesn't help.

 

So basically if you have any mechanical knowledge and common sense this truck is about bullett proof? The ride and luxury don't bother me, I want a truck, not a car. Besides, them are things that could be changed, make a sort of challenge out of it. What are some common "failures" that come along with 1st gen territory?

 

common failures? whats that?

just kidding! Not much that I can think of. Maybe the fuel shutoff solenoid. Thats all I've had trouble with.

Tons more reliable than a 24 v in my opinion. You will love it.

 

I've had my '93 for a very short period. Small issues like typical-for-the-period Dodge body and interior cheezy-ness. Passenger seat often won't lock back down, wind whistle right next to driver's head, doors have to be slammed to close all the way, heat / AC controls whistle and whine. I'm having issues with my brake warning lights coming on if you step on the brakes for any period, like at a light, or, strangely, when backing up. Mechanically, its a moose. I get 19-21 mpg with an auto at 65-ish. It will haul anything. Frankly, I love it despite all the brittle plastic interior parts.....

 

I prefere my 1993 W250 over my 1999 24valve 2500. Other then the ride and turning radius the 93 i like better. I get 23mpg unloaded with the 93 and the best i can get out of the 99 is 21mpg unloaded. I have never had any engine issues with the 93 where the 99 is constantly having this and that. Been thinking about selling the 99 and getting anohter 1st gen.

 

1st gens are ALL mechanical - with a couple of exceptions...

Grid heaters are PCM controlled - easy to replace w/ a pushbutton to activate the relays IF it gets too cold to start. Some people have reported immediate starts W/O heaters in temps down to -10* ...
With a 5-spd you have control of your OD.
I'm not sure about the transfer case - but I suspect it's manual also....
The Speedo and tach come off the PCM.

Not much else.....
Less computer control is better ( cheaper ) ...
Check out the sticky's for tuning fun, and don't blow all your money at once
Enjoy.

 

Cruise, alt (92 - 93) & grid heaters are PCM controlled.
OD on auto trucks is PCM controlled . . . .
Transfer case is al mechanical & gear drive!!! (NP205)
Trans is all hydraulic other than OD control. (toggle switch can fix that)
Manuall locking hubs made by Warn.

The doors close fine if you fix the hinges & adjust everything to work right.

& let's not forget such standard Dodge features as "buckboard ride", rattling doors, squeaking cab, etc.

 

Rear brake adjusters often have issues, hardware kit will usually take care of that. At 200K miles it would be a good thing to take a look at the rear end. Limited slips wear the clutches, open diffs wear the cross pin.

If you have snow and salt be sure and check for the dreaded 'roof rot'. Bubbles along the gutter edge of the cab above the windshield indicate rust that is difficult to repair and always worse than it looks.

Alternators and starters often have about a 200K lifespan but are cheap and easy to rebuild, part #s and instructions are in the sticky. Replacing the lift pump is almost a maitanence item at 200K, but they're cheap, less than a $100.00, but you might as well stick a piston pump on there 'cause you're going to want more fuel sooner or later. Still cheap.

A 366 gov. spring will make it a different truck for $20.00 and a 12 cm turbo housing will really wake a 5-speed up.

There is, of course, more but that'll get you started. For under $1000.00 you can have a really fun to drive, pretty quick truck that will get better than 20 mpg.

 

Can't forget to overfill the Rag

 

No one mentioned the cowl cracks.....

Not that that would stop me from getting a 1st gen.