Unfortunately the floor mats were already deleted by the time I procured this sweet ride.

 

50 hours later....

 

DANG! From our perspective it didn't look nearly that extensive.

What's the plan for sealing it all up and preserving your work? Seam sealer and some primer & paint?

 

Whoa! Sick work buddy.

Did you bump the 4x4 transmission hump up a bit for G56 clearance, while you where metal fabricating away?

What seam sealer product are you going to use...asking for a friend with a 2wd Ramcharger project.

 

My litmus test was to spark the welder on a section of floor and if it burned through before it made a tack I cut that section out.

I'm going to try AgriGuard paint on both sides of the floor and the seam seal both sides as well.

 

Thanks Ollie. That job turned into more work than i had planned, but its done and solid.

I used a bolt in style center hump that I had in my inventory. The portion that bolted to the floor pans was rusted, but the top 60% was good. I raised it about an inch above the original. That old '70s metal is noticeably heavier than the '80s stuff.

I've used 3m Dynatron in the past with good results.

 

I got the rear brakes, hubs and transmission crossmember (thanks again Ollie) all buttoned up this weekend. Next will be brake line plumbing, rebuilding the front axle brake system and king pins.

 

.I did have some time yesterday whilst it was snowing, again, to test fit the cab. It didnt go as well as i hoped. That G56 is a monster and i need to massage the floor pans even more. I did swap out the 8" frame transmission crossmember for one out of a 6" framed truck. That helped a little, but ill still need to make sparks fly to get the cab down on the mounts. A 1" body lift will also be in the plans

 

I used a 2 piece driveshaft out of a '93 D350 Club Cab and had it shortened 1.75" on the front shaft. Then built a carrier bearing crossmember from scrap steel. Progression is not as quick as I planned...

 

Nice work finding an OEM driveshaft that was longer than what you need. I always find I get the best results when I shorten down an OEM driveshaft.

The custom crossmember looks slick too.

I sometimes find when I run the exhaust without the cab on the frame, I have exhaust to cab contact when I go to drop the cab on. The clearance by the transfer case looks tight in the picture, but with the small body lift you need for the G56, it might all work out.

 

Thanks Ollie.

The cost of driveshaft material is ridiculous, as is most stuff these days. Dennys Driveshaft in up state New York is about as cheap as you can get with good quality.

The local (50 miles away) big truck transmission shop is a Dana Spicer dealer and they have quick turn around on this kind of work.

This 7" frame, combined with a transmission that was never intended to be installed in this chassis is cause for some interesting fab work. I don't have a exhaust pipe bender or lathe or metal worker, so I am at the mercy of off the shelf parts and my past cobbling experiences.

I plan to attach the exhaust to the transfer case, to eliminate some rattles down the road. The 1 inch body lift gives me a little more room to make things fit and be slightly accessible under the sheet metal.

 

Have it linex-ed. Our Great White North buddy won't like it, but I've had great results from the linex done to my bed. Too bad my roof gutter failed, but that wasn't linex related.

 

That's almost like saying go full strength anti-freeze around these parts pardner!

 

Man them's fighting words....