1941 Dodge Power Wagon Conversion
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1941 Dodge Power Wagon Conversion
I recently aquired an old Power Wagon, and I want to convert it to CUMMINS power. I have a 1992 250 dodge 4x4 with a cummins and a nv4500 and was wondering In you peoples' opinion if I'd be better of using the 92 chassis with the 41 body, or the 41 frame and body with the 92 engine, tranny, t-case and differentials. In my simple mind, using just the 41 frame and body and boxing in the frame would be the cleanest? Has anyone done something like this? Any input would be appreciated. I want this to be a NICE rig, so I am not going to take any shortcuts, I want to do it RIGHT.
What I have in mind is a cab and chassis, Bright yellow,and black, saddle tanks, stacks, and a sleeper. (like a mini semi) This is something I have had in my head for twenty some years, (long before dodge had the ctd) Any way what do ya'll think, suggest?
What I have in mind is a cab and chassis, Bright yellow,and black, saddle tanks, stacks, and a sleeper. (like a mini semi) This is something I have had in my head for twenty some years, (long before dodge had the ctd) Any way what do ya'll think, suggest?
The guy on the Spike Channel TV show "Trucks" Hot Rodded a Power wagon just recently. You might be able to get some information off their web site. I do remember there was some clearance problems and weight concerns with the CTD so he opted for a huge gasser. With the lift they put on the truck they had to do a lot of reinforcing of the frame. If you can use the "92 stuff under the '41 body I think you would have a stronger set up. But I am only guessing. I also recall that he used Eaton axles front and rear from military surplus. I always thought that would be a neat project but never had the funds to start.
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I think he called that truck "Sargent Rock" and I remember thinking the first time I saw it "hey, he stole my idea" but I will definately use a CUMMINS---no gasser for me. I know I will have turbo clearace problems, but I think I have as exhaust manifold design that will alleviate that issue
I think the PW would look goofy on the new chassis. There's no way the frame is gonna fit under there right. Good luck packaging all that under the PW hood. If max hp is not your goal, make it easy on yourself and lose the intercooler. The truck/industrial manifold is a good idea, that will tuck the turbo in much tighter. If things get tight down low with motor mounts and such, remember that you can flip the manifold and put the turbo up top.
That sounds like a great project. A ton of work but it will keep you out of trouble
I am not a fan of the 92 frame. I think it is a little weak. If it were me I would build a new frame from rectangular stock. That way you would build what you want and have a nice clean frame.
Good luck and have a blast
Dean
I am not a fan of the 92 frame. I think it is a little weak. If it were me I would build a new frame from rectangular stock. That way you would build what you want and have a nice clean frame.
Good luck and have a blast
Dean
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I think the cleanest way is to use the power wagon frame and box it in and reinforce it, then take the tranny, transfer case, engine of course, and both diffs outta the 92. As for cooling, I was leaning towards a behind the cab radiator, or two small radiators kinda veed (sp) across the front. Never even thought about the air to air cooler yet, (that could be a problem)---any Ideas?-----heck, I could put intercooler, radiator and condensor behind cab? Right???--Anyway, this is gonna be a neat project, and my two boys and I are going to have a ball doing it. Any suggestions, tips, tricks, or anything else will be greatly appreciated. THANX gUYS-Matt
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I vote against putting any of the heat exchangers behind the cab. If you want to use the truck on the highway or anything "real" you will likely have trouble with air-flow and reliability of the plumbing. If you try to plumb the charge air back there, you will have some serious turbo lag, too.
I don't know all of the measurements, so I am guessing in the dark, but IMHO I would look into putting the old tin on the new chassis, stretching the hood, and set up a custom tall/skinny aftercooler and radiator. As I recall the old power wagon frames do not have a very deep cross section -- and that depth is where the strength comes from, boxed or no. It is the top and bottom rail that do all of the work. The farther apart they are, and the stronger they are, the stronger the beam. Scabbing in that extra web is a very inefficient way to add strength, though it does help around motor mounts, etc. because it increases the torsional strength of the rail member . . .
I really like the idea, by the way. Also, I WOULD keep the old swing (through the floor) pedals for the brake and clutch if at all possible. I really miss them -- think they are much more comfortable to operate.
If you do it -- please post some pictures!
I don't know all of the measurements, so I am guessing in the dark, but IMHO I would look into putting the old tin on the new chassis, stretching the hood, and set up a custom tall/skinny aftercooler and radiator. As I recall the old power wagon frames do not have a very deep cross section -- and that depth is where the strength comes from, boxed or no. It is the top and bottom rail that do all of the work. The farther apart they are, and the stronger they are, the stronger the beam. Scabbing in that extra web is a very inefficient way to add strength, though it does help around motor mounts, etc. because it increases the torsional strength of the rail member . . .
I really like the idea, by the way. Also, I WOULD keep the old swing (through the floor) pedals for the brake and clutch if at all possible. I really miss them -- think they are much more comfortable to operate.
If you do it -- please post some pictures!
I also have a '41 and have done much investigation on this. The '41 running gear will not take the power of a 6bt, no way. It's tough, but the 218ci motor only had 30-40HP. Also, you will have to cut a BIG hole in the firewall and make a doghouse inside the cab because the 6bt is WAY too long. The 4bt with an NV 4500 would work with the original running gear provided you mag the yokes, rings and pinions to make sure there are no cracks at all.
I have been thinking for some time that I would LOVE to use my '93 W250 as a base for the '41 cab and bed, but there are a bunch of issues. The first is the doghouse as I mentioned (not a problem for me) second is I would have to take a couple of feet out of the frame length. Next the frame needs to be tapered in the front to fit the body right (and with with the cool louvered wheel wells). None of this is particularly hard though, and would do it in a heartbeat if I had a big bag 'o' cash to do it (and buy a new Dodge for my temporary driver!) Adapting the wiring harness would be the hardest part I think.
Vintage air, yea....
p.s. keep (and use) the original radiator, it's a super cool honeycomb. Just move the engine back and use a pusher fan, that's what I intend to do.
I'll photoshop my truck frame under my '41 and post it!
I have been thinking for some time that I would LOVE to use my '93 W250 as a base for the '41 cab and bed, but there are a bunch of issues. The first is the doghouse as I mentioned (not a problem for me) second is I would have to take a couple of feet out of the frame length. Next the frame needs to be tapered in the front to fit the body right (and with with the cool louvered wheel wells). None of this is particularly hard though, and would do it in a heartbeat if I had a big bag 'o' cash to do it (and buy a new Dodge for my temporary driver!) Adapting the wiring harness would be the hardest part I think.
Vintage air, yea....
p.s. keep (and use) the original radiator, it's a super cool honeycomb. Just move the engine back and use a pusher fan, that's what I intend to do.
I'll photoshop my truck frame under my '41 and post it!
Last edited by mhuppertz; Jan 26, 2006 at 07:53 PM. Reason: additions
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that's why I'm leaning towards just using the frame and body from the 41, every thing else would be from the 92. As far as wiring goes, I can wire one up on the ground and make it run---not really an issue---Need to get out the tape measure, but I think I could extend the hood just in front of the windshield a little? Whattya think?
I have seen a stretched hood on a '41 and hated it. It ruins the awesome angle. Just make a dog house, or get a 4bt like I want to do. The 4bt can be tweaked for super power and still get 32+ MPG!
I call my '41 "yart" as in yard art!
Check out my gallery.
I call my '41 "yart" as in yard art!
Check out my gallery.







