I've driven the '92 D350 that I had shipped from CA to TN about 3K since I've had it. I knew the front end was due before I bought it. I plan to do upper & lower ball joint, Idler arm, shocks, and springs, and then tires. I was hoping it would last another month or so but as I left Home Depot this evening I saw a cut through the front tire on the inside where the tread has been wearing thin. I've either got to fix it now or put a pair of junk tires on the front to be "eaten up" before I get to the fixing part. All this leads to the question as to whether or not to put on the heavy duty front springs to get this 2WD back to a level stance. Will the ride of the new heavy duty springs break my neck like the back already do? And then, what shocks? The bilisteins (sp?) are awfully high. Most of the time this rig is just a dailey driver with a tow 3 or 4 times a month for just a short way. I guess I can still find the part numbers in the sticky and then figure out where to order from. If you've got time, I'd appreciate input on this oft-asked topic. Thanks, Packratc

 

i am curious also as i am ready to tear my front suspension apart.

 

Wheeliking71, is yours a 350 2WD also? Packratc

 

I'd like to see some info myself since I gotta do mine too

 

I'm sure you all have seen in the sticky what I already know I'm going to do. The parts that I know i'll order are as follows:
Moog Idler Arm K705
" Upper Ball Joint K7082
" Lower Ball Joint K7053t.
What I'm hoping for some advise on is whether to use a 7226 or 7226s spring.
I haven't looked at the bushings to see if they need it too.
packratc

 

My truck is a "D" but I went all through the front steering rebuild and the suspension.What a ton of work! but well worth doing it myself,I was quoted 3K to have a shop do it.I used the KYB mono tube shocks and are very pleased with them.

After all the work the truck still didnt drive that great,last week I noticed the box was starting to leak.I replaced the steering gear box with a reman from Atsco WOW the ol girl drives great now!(I understand that Atsco company are the only reman company that matches the steering gears) all the other companys just tear down the boxes and the parts are thrown into tubs...never to have matched gears again!

 

We put the 7226S springs on our 92 D250 and it didn't make it sit or ride any different, but comparing the stock dodge ones side by side to the 7226S there's a little difference in coil diameter.

Have you checked out the center link yet? You'll probably have to replace that as well

 

yes, 93' D350. my drivers side upper control arm was trashed. had been cracked and welded in at least 3 different places. and still bent. wheel-bearings on both sides are loose. and i think i have at least one bad ball-joint. the center-link, and tie-rods are tight though. although they have about 1/2" of nasty grease/crud accumulated on them. the truck is a bare frame right now, and super easy to work on, so i am just going to go through the whole thing. all new bushings/ball-joints, wheel-bearings.

 

I would reccomend buying the control arms with new bushings and ball joints already installed...even if you control arms werent trashed,I destroyed my old control arms attempting to just press the old bushings out. WOW! they where in there!

 

Feel free to take a peek through the thread I created while rebuilding my front-end for any additional info that you might need.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t260879.html

I went with the 7226S (severe duty) springs and Bilsteins. I'm happy with the way it rides. The front-end has enough weight over it to keep from snapping your neck. Now, the rear-end? Well, we all know these trucks feel like the rear axle is rigid-mounted to the frame

 

Thanks for the reply, Jimbo486, I had seen your thread before. Did you ever figure out what the 5176s spring number was all about? I thought the 7226s was the spring to have for the 2WD D350 Dually. I don't have an upper ball joint coming out of the control arm like you did. I think that anytime you have that sort of failure it would indicate a new control arm as the flat-like threads have to have failed or the metal around them would have had to rip. I don't have failure of parts, that I know of. I just have worn out ball joints, springs, and Idler arm. The jury is still out on the control arm bushings. I'd probably be happier with myself if I replace them. Packratc

 

How do you spend $713.10 before 8:00 AM? Answer: You call Rockauto and buy a bunch of Moog parts. Upper ball joints, lower ball joints, idler arm, upper & lower control arm bushings, and springs were ordered this morningm & by this afternoon I had notice they had been shipped. I estimate 4 to 6 days. I solved the 7226s vs 5176s spring mystery. It seems according to the guy I talked to, Moog lists the 7226s as fitting the D250, severe service. The D350 severe service spring is listed by Moog as the 5176s. As that is what they recommend, that's what I ordered. I haven't decided on shocks. I think I'm going to need new brake calipers. Wondering if I should buy them from NAPA. Packratc

 

The 5176s is the correct spring for the D-350. The 7226s is correct for the D-250.

 

There are a few differences between the 2 springs.

I can tell you this, the installed and free height of the 5716s springs is actually shorter than the 7226s springs. The 5716s springs only have a higher load and spring rate compared to the 7226s springs.

Here are the specs direct from Moog:

5716s | ID: 4.060", Bar dia.: .937", Install Height: 12.75", Load: 3251lbs, Spring Rate: 1430, Free Height: 14.69"

7226s | ID: 4.000", Bar dia.: .906", Install Height: 13.12", Load: 2224lbs, Spring Rate: 1133, Free Height: 15.09"

 

What you are doing is basically what my rig needs thanks for the write-up man!