I thought so. Mine was clear. I'm sure someone will have some advise. I'm new to manuals so I don't know what to tell you. Pete

 

maybe they rebuilt it with new syncro's that can use that type of oil? Well, it's under warrenty for awhile, and i'm planning on puting $600 or so into a rebuild when this goes out...

 

I would be interested knowing what you used to weld with. Was it stick or wire? And then after knowing that I would have another question.

 

Used my Millermattic 175

 

But that does not tell me what kind of weldment you used. Can you tell me the strength of the fill? And did you use stick or wire? The machine has no bearing on the product left behind. For instance a stick could be 7018 or 6011. This can be very important for you to know.

 

it's a mig welder so it uses wire. I used Harris ER 70S-6 .030 wire

 

Well if it just bear wire and a c02 gas then it will likely crack. Unfortunately I am not up to speed on all of the wire codes, if the wire had a flux on it that would be good to know.

 

is it hard to get the rear housing off? I need to change the shaft seal in mine and have been putting it off because I don't know how hard it will be to get the rear housing off

 

It's solid mig wire, not flux, and I use C25 gas. I welded a thumb for my excavator and that puts so much pressure on it that it's not even funny, and the welds hold up fine from the mm175. c02 isn't much fun to weld with, niether is flux wire that why I use C25, much cleaner and better control.

 

no it's a piece of cake, just make sure u use a 12 point 10mm socket and it will go really fast. I had to use a hand wrench so it was slow, but u just take the bolts out, and I tapped the thing loose with a rubber malet because the alignment dowels hold it in alittle, but it comes right off. Then just clean the mating surfaces and put some new RTV gasket maker on and ur done.

 

The c25 will make a difference. But c25 and bear wire are more for a static load than a dynamic load. Especially when welding high carbon or alloyed metals. With the vibration, torque, and the oil that is in the shaft it would fair better with a low hydrogen flux. So something like a 7018 stick would be my preference. That is 7018 that has come out of a new box or has been stored in a rod oven.
I don't want to be Mr. negative and say this is not going to work, but bear wire has it's limits. If I am proven wrong that would be good for team.

 

Oh and we could go into a long debate over c02, flux core, and controllability. But not over the internet it would absolutely have to over the table with tall glasses in front of us.

 

I understand, but as long as the metal was thoroughly cleaned and dried, the weld and nut shouldn't move, if the nut wasn't pushed over the threads already, it's not gonna push past these welds.

 

Why go through the hassle of welding the nut on? Were the threads bad? The new nut with the set screws will definitely hold, but the torque specs are super tight.Something like 450 lb/ft. Good luck. Hope it works out for ya. Sure beats that automatic in my opinion. Get yourself a good heavy duty clutch and you should be good to go.

 

Flux is a pain to weld with and i'll never use it again unless i'm welding outside and it's really windy, lol. c02 leaves alot more slag around the weld, all I know is that C25 was like night and day, you can see the bead better, which makes it easier to make the right bead for the situation, and I can control the heat better when I can see the puddle. So it's just my opinion but i'll stick with C25.